tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4545050002407468832024-03-14T14:26:45.462-04:00Michals-Brown Adventuresmostly boatingJeffrey Michals-Brownhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875231268940338643noreply@blogger.comBlogger71125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454505000240746883.post-40705377901983146502018-09-03T21:58:00.000-04:002018-09-03T21:58:07.799-04:00Buzzards Bay 4: going home<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">I breakfasted in time for an eight o'clock departure on Friday morning. The weather report promised gusty winds; I decided to sail under main and mizzen--and a good thing, since winds were light and gusts never materialized. While the coffee was brewing, I took some last photos of the anchored boats around me.</span></div>
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Sarah Abbot is a trim little schooner. (Not "little" by my standards, but</div>
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schooner rigs are usually restricted to much larger--and historic--craft.)</div>
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Restive is a real wooden boat that has come a long way.</div>
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I've never seen such an out-sized wheel.</div>
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Leaving Sippican Harbor.</div>
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Rounding Converse Point.</div>
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Aucoot Cove is just south of Sippican Harbor. Backed by wetlands, there are few homes around it.</div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
Even smaller--and rocky--Hiller Cove.</div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
With my rig, sailing " wing on wing" is the best way to deal with wind astern.</div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #181818; display: inline !important; float: none; font-family: "Merriweather","Georgia",serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: 21px; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">“Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing</span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #181818; display: inline !important; float: none; font-family: "Merriweather","Georgia",serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: 21px; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">as simply messing about in boats.” </span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #181818; display: inline !important; float: none; font-family: "Merriweather","Georgia",serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: 21px; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">―
</span><span class="authorOrTitle" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #333333; font-family: &quot; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 700; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">
Kenneth Grahame,
</span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #181818; display: inline !important; float: none; font-family: "Merriweather","Georgia",serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: 21px; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">
</span><span id="quote_book_link_5659" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #181818; font-family: &quot; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: 21px; orphans: 2; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">
<a class="authorOrTitle" href="https://www.goodreads.com/work/quotes/1061285" style="color: #333333; font-family: &quot; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none;">The Wind in the Willows</a>
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Traditional gaff catboat with its wide beam, short mast, and "barndoor rudder."</div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Peases Point and Connett Point spread over a stretch of coastline </span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">before Mattapoisett Harbor opens on the right.</span></div>
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These homes may be safe for quite awhile, but the commute will be a bear.</div>
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I'd like to see some of these houses on the inside.</div>
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An osprey guarded the daymark that warned of Angelica Rocks.</div>
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Entering Mattapoisett Harbor.</div>
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Coming around the point into the harbor, I was joined by a few "houseflies" that buzzed about </div>
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my ankles. I mostly ignored them until it became clear I was being bitten. My friends </div>
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at iNaturalist later identified them as stable flies. That pointy mouth can inflict a bothersome bite.</div>
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Ned Point Light.</div>
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I'd wanted to visit Mattapoisett Harbor and perhaps go ashore briefly, but the wind died, leaving me and other motorless sailors in the lurch. I unshipped one oar and rowed awhile, but finally gave up and turned around. Of course, once away from the harbor the wind began to return.</span><br />
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The black-backed gull is the largest of our seagull species, dwarfing the familiar herring gull.</div>
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Reflection and Compass Rose are double-enders.</div>
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They are meant to ride better in following seas.</div>
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Ebb Tide is a schooner. She looks a solid, serious, workmanlike boat.</div>
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Abigail is another wooden beauty.</div>
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Friends sailing a gaff-rigged beetle cat.</div>
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The Coast Guard was busy today. This helicopter flew back and forth overhead several times.<br />
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Another sailboat not acting like one.</div>
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Leaving Mattapoisett Harbor, the wind is back up.</div>
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A wishbone cat is "self tacking": with no jib, tacking is as easy as putting the rudder over.</div>
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Lines strung beneath the sail from one side of the wishbone to the other form a "hammock"</div>
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the sail is simply dropped into to furl. My boat is also a cat, but has two sails with the sprits</div>
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only on one side. I can usually tack without putting my coffee cup down.</div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Coming into Nasketucket Bay, I was being careful to stay away from the rocks and submerged parts of West Island, and not get tangled up in fish pens that could tear my rudder off. I got so turned around that I got lost in the tiny bay--sure I was headed for the ramp when I was actually among the rocks behind West Island. (Use your compass, Luke!) Eventually I got back on track, and hit the ramp in mid-afternoon, ending a nice sailing adventure.</span><br />
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House on West Island. Hoi palloi need not apply.</div>
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Jeffrey Michals-Brownhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875231268940338643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454505000240746883.post-28212483724249904282018-08-25T23:53:00.000-04:002018-09-03T17:07:51.835-04:00Buzzards Bay 3: Quisset to Sippican Harbor<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The National Weather Service marine forecast that came over the radio as I ate dinner in Quisset Harbor was for winds of 5-10 knots with possible thundershowers in the morning, strengthening to 10-15 knots in the afternoon. I decided I needed to be anchored early in the afternoon; that would necessitate a little editing. A deep dive into Onset or Wareham would add hours to the trip, because it would be "uphill" (into the wind) to get out of those places. If I went only as far northeast as Pocasset Harbor in Falmouth, I could then cut across to Marion and probably make it before the wind got too strong. </span><br />
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As I ate my breakfast, the gulls and terns got theirs.</div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">I was up early and weighed anchor at about 7pm to make the most of my morning. Winds were light, but in direction perfect for departure.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">These West Falmouth waterfront homes must belong to very large families!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Less than an hour out of Quisset, I began hearing unfamiliar sounds from the sky. It didn't sound like thunder and I couldn't place it. I wondered if there were supersonic fighter jets passing by at high altitude. Trying to characterize the sound to myself, it was a short but steady sound, like a rolled "R." God practicing rolling his Rs. Eventually it got near enough to convince me it was indeed thunder. The sky ahead was dark with cloud, but too distant and hazy to be a clearly thunder clouds. I was not interested in sailing any closer to it. I have only once been caught out in a thunderstorm--well out in Cape Cod Bay--and I had no desire to repeat the experience. Considering the chart, I thought I could probably slip into little West Falmouth Harbor, but when I saw it, the entrance looked a bit narrow. The wind had definitely begun to rise. With no other port in this storm, I headed in. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">A favorable wind meant there were no issues coming in, and I snugged right up to a beach--someone's back yard, really--and dropped anchor. I sat for almost an hour, moving the mizzen to the reefing step and listening to the radio, and finally headed back out. Exiting the harbor was no more difficult than entering it. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">I had left the mainmast stepped, on the theory that the wind resistance it presented wouldn't be important with the wind more-or-less behind me. As I headed deeper into the bay, I consulted the chart for the next step. With an hour less to sail, my sail area much reduced, and the main sticking into the sky like a giant wind break, I decided not to attempt any harbor at all on the Falmouth side. In fact, to avoid sailing any distance into the wind, I would cut straight across from Nye's Neck, northwest the 6 nautical miles into Sippican Harbor, Marion. With luck, I could do it on one tack.</span></div>
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Parked a couple dozen yards off someone's backyard.</div>
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West Falmouth Harbor is partly closed by a rock barrier that initially gave me pause.</div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; display: inline; float: none; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: center; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">Out of the harbor, creaming along in a good breeze and rising seas.</span></div>
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Past beaches...</div>
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...and sailing lessons. (I decided it wasn't a race, because boats were going every which way.)</div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i9.ytimg.com/vi/jtjiMBzc_o8/default.jpg?sqp=CPjc2NsF&rs=AOn4CLDwTM2MwMk04dOhK6o3w82csHG_HQ" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/jtjiMBzc_o8?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
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And then cutting across the bay, past the Cleveland Ledge Channel that leads to</div>
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the Cape Cod Canal, past the Cleveland Ledge Light (just visible in the haze)…</div>
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…to Bird Island Light, marking the entrance to Sippican Harbor.</div>
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Fishing.</div>
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Marion also has large families.</div>
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Yachts anchor behind Ram Island, ahead, deep in the harbor.</div>
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But approaching Ram Island the wind dropped. We were moving so slowly that</div>
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the painter towing the kayak was slack. I thought that was slow, but then </div>
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the line dipped below the water... Would I ever get there?</div>
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In a boat that sails in 4 feet of water and can float in 1, I often ignore channel markers. </div>
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I made an exception in this case.</div>
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The wind came back, and a gorgeous, old, wooden, gaff-rigged Herreshof cruised by.</div>
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Dropping anchor behind Ram Island, I cleaned myself up,</div>
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changed into my shore-going rig, and paddled into town.</div>
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My wanderings brought me quickly to the Sippican Historical Society on Front Street. Just as the last time I was here, it was closed--no hours on Thursdays. Unlike last time, a women say me sitting on the bench outside, poked her head out, and invited me in. She is the Society's new archivist, and would be happy to allow me to wander the rooms while she caught up on work. I must have wandered for almost an hour, fascinated by some of the people who called Marion home, or summered there, in its heyday in the early 20th century. Cecil Clark Davis painted portraits of some of the luminaries who passed through; on the walls are portraits of Charles Lindberg, and Roald Amundsen. She was married for a time (a platonic marriage) to another luminary, the journalist and novelist Richard Harding Davis. Another Marionite of note was illustrator Charles Dana Gibson, whose ink drawings set the style for the stylish American upper classes for over a decade.<br />
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Leaving the Historical Society (Laura had a dinner date with her husband), I walked Water Street in search of the house where Grover Cleveland summered two of the years between his presidential terms. You will know it, Laura told me, by the croquet pitch. It would have been an unmistakable house, with its rounded angles around the dormers, but the croquet pitch clinched it. <br />
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President Cleveland summered the four years between his terms in Marion, twice in this house.</div>
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The croquet pitch is out of sight to the left. I learned that Cleveland Ledge (and the</div>
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light I passed sailing in) is so named because it was his favorite fishing place.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiguKpBBBuNVghUl11LULa99G-OTT2Iaeq24eT6Ys6zvCwtrYQq09zGrg_RkdJkxWS3usWEFc0BCmifZynRQ6UNZblnunzcg_AWGW32fyKsS6ZgeyoYjLYmndNPcFr3Kah9mxShb1igYDqz/s1600/P1020861.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiguKpBBBuNVghUl11LULa99G-OTT2Iaeq24eT6Ys6zvCwtrYQq09zGrg_RkdJkxWS3usWEFc0BCmifZynRQ6UNZblnunzcg_AWGW32fyKsS6ZgeyoYjLYmndNPcFr3Kah9mxShb1igYDqz/s640/P1020861.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Other houses on Water Street, some historic, caught my eye.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqWZvwv4c_d6d24OnFydcHpSGLNOjh0dwf03OYtwi9RN4OvqtWTNKd3dFZLRbu_sSCZeAmTvlbL3aFvc2JCfc9Lr-jgcX8EfDlp52ZGiCphAFSulKO7PV3fgFHWlN6Kr2Jm0W9tjcIxUDN/s1600/P1020843.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqWZvwv4c_d6d24OnFydcHpSGLNOjh0dwf03OYtwi9RN4OvqtWTNKd3dFZLRbu_sSCZeAmTvlbL3aFvc2JCfc9Lr-jgcX8EfDlp52ZGiCphAFSulKO7PV3fgFHWlN6Kr2Jm0W9tjcIxUDN/s640/P1020843.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; display: inline; float: none; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: center; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">A brook flows behind this gate into the salt marsh.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk_WDl5LC_QyxNlGqq_ipIMwZJa_r4h4nkUZkuMFePH1pVeW9uIU_YyBsZgNSjK8812zG9M65B1EsPrB1E2UzK2Ggu7KT172zoT67PYI_4CIExD9R2mzrxx-t58OKyAdq8RWX-F0VTMHO8/s1600/P1020845.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk_WDl5LC_QyxNlGqq_ipIMwZJa_r4h4nkUZkuMFePH1pVeW9uIU_YyBsZgNSjK8812zG9M65B1EsPrB1E2UzK2Ggu7KT172zoT67PYI_4CIExD9R2mzrxx-t58OKyAdq8RWX-F0VTMHO8/s640/P1020845.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjblPwq9Yic76YrpLIEgLu7FzVs75FnQ_Pba_KIs82zMTmhLP30KomeZDNb781aymKFkDnNt_etQIrPxRRwxRs2VbPwlpYJ9ISBoAQveD0zAF6J71EodF_dR-LTMqtIxb1-WHrvQuzAzvqF/s1600/P1020848.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjblPwq9Yic76YrpLIEgLu7FzVs75FnQ_Pba_KIs82zMTmhLP30KomeZDNb781aymKFkDnNt_etQIrPxRRwxRs2VbPwlpYJ9ISBoAQveD0zAF6J71EodF_dR-LTMqtIxb1-WHrvQuzAzvqF/s640/P1020848.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Imagine having a breezeway with this view.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPJUUf0QN9nYcPqd9q21qGxQ97P2yVeK6043QLwq3JPVv4m2Ch5GqN1sR9heUnVNmnMJM1vPAK3AiFTz5aWje5K_3XEXg1rFBcSZ3zIrPJDlxjmrulpMJTOkrZWpjE1PxtogxiPmcvRf1J/s1600/P1020852.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPJUUf0QN9nYcPqd9q21qGxQ97P2yVeK6043QLwq3JPVv4m2Ch5GqN1sR9heUnVNmnMJM1vPAK3AiFTz5aWje5K_3XEXg1rFBcSZ3zIrPJDlxjmrulpMJTOkrZWpjE1PxtogxiPmcvRf1J/s640/P1020852.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Some people are never satisfied.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuyBVX8M0RzIe2XaWEJTfELHfur9pUx7yNeF9Hr2aRwBlKa34m66X9Jeo6FNCpTx7kyXIpOS7KXRHCL-UKoQgrB-YnYJ02RigNwRzUIqDVQ8kFV2RxpxeVKhQQdM2dsdU8PcFWo0rQ1vQU/s1600/P1020853.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuyBVX8M0RzIe2XaWEJTfELHfur9pUx7yNeF9Hr2aRwBlKa34m66X9Jeo6FNCpTx7kyXIpOS7KXRHCL-UKoQgrB-YnYJ02RigNwRzUIqDVQ8kFV2RxpxeVKhQQdM2dsdU8PcFWo0rQ1vQU/s640/P1020853.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggfNxbXS9DN5nIHS65lFVu2B6O1XEF1_sTX5Z9O865-hMsbECEXud88TAP3Hf6BeZdF9Piy9G5UftUK_Ifas5z27dpa21xqe1wy2dgDNRfNV1BxhGtBgsMZo-I4nTAVsULk8yCI3znp6NR/s1600/P1020855.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggfNxbXS9DN5nIHS65lFVu2B6O1XEF1_sTX5Z9O865-hMsbECEXud88TAP3Hf6BeZdF9Piy9G5UftUK_Ifas5z27dpa21xqe1wy2dgDNRfNV1BxhGtBgsMZo-I4nTAVsULk8yCI3znp6NR/s640/P1020855.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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First house on Water Street.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJwKmb-jLhMpX2u4VoTKtklUPg3eVRPP66gSkhrVxr3pl1IYY3lvSrkjxCgTjVh-hio5cjsJ66PKUSXrc33bWemySvQsIp6Sw1Ihtjm6FvsOc4ya7BVW539nsgzEg7wBGesM2ao-1UpM8n/s1600/P1020857.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJwKmb-jLhMpX2u4VoTKtklUPg3eVRPP66gSkhrVxr3pl1IYY3lvSrkjxCgTjVh-hio5cjsJ66PKUSXrc33bWemySvQsIp6Sw1Ihtjm6FvsOc4ya7BVW539nsgzEg7wBGesM2ao-1UpM8n/s640/P1020857.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The purpose and history of this tiny house are mysteries to me.</div>
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It seems small to be a garage. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg00ly9qcZeXFr4Rdzupa3Z_uAoAJfJ9mkAwPn4BMbdPqzGBnq1hFk4fG9x6LeYt29c8Gsdm4N9pOln1x1q00oY9xZYAiMYURvZ-tXKK8qQzOeEkbjNlRziUgtIqwvXbKHCDQ1CG4AwKhRD/s1600/P1020858.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg00ly9qcZeXFr4Rdzupa3Z_uAoAJfJ9mkAwPn4BMbdPqzGBnq1hFk4fG9x6LeYt29c8Gsdm4N9pOln1x1q00oY9xZYAiMYURvZ-tXKK8qQzOeEkbjNlRziUgtIqwvXbKHCDQ1CG4AwKhRD/s640/P1020858.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyaHBTL5UowBlkP9O9TGcc8LfAQQuE65j8Pr63bV7_RGiYX87OySEMzvMfdEgsC5xZNiO1MnFR2ZyyD1jERYzlMcrT6kRKAI_6qQotBY_ggoE-6hnnRRq7ZZzGL4Ko78I2Cplvh1UR2bKX/s1600/P1020862.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyaHBTL5UowBlkP9O9TGcc8LfAQQuE65j8Pr63bV7_RGiYX87OySEMzvMfdEgsC5xZNiO1MnFR2ZyyD1jERYzlMcrT6kRKAI_6qQotBY_ggoE-6hnnRRq7ZZzGL4Ko78I2Cplvh1UR2bKX/s640/P1020862.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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An inn or pub, if I recall.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYo7_YVpKthIYjPjPisIBPROljKd2GPQMIXOOGxdsobPTFBmAtRDFb3oeqcnlogt0sSw3VMzEPWWLejAzD67QUNyQTdty2DKUmnOpaV6tCnCTl2O4lixJYihDbcglpmqtCKiyu0f9GxWM5/s1600/P1020864.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYo7_YVpKthIYjPjPisIBPROljKd2GPQMIXOOGxdsobPTFBmAtRDFb3oeqcnlogt0sSw3VMzEPWWLejAzD67QUNyQTdty2DKUmnOpaV6tCnCTl2O4lixJYihDbcglpmqtCKiyu0f9GxWM5/s640/P1020864.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9XHasTGPo0-8Bq980Au1twkrtQDYaV8rXSXYRpju8Nhzpy2lav7kE57po3et5sCacXdyv-xkanuEw2n-LjLrs-XnwGU-I2Q6nXXG9wMSh6aOLGDUFxoacwTwOzigkk0nRybkgzZW4LIji/s1600/P1020866.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9XHasTGPo0-8Bq980Au1twkrtQDYaV8rXSXYRpju8Nhzpy2lav7kE57po3et5sCacXdyv-xkanuEw2n-LjLrs-XnwGU-I2Q6nXXG9wMSh6aOLGDUFxoacwTwOzigkk0nRybkgzZW4LIji/s640/P1020866.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqDT67LqRym6zq1METK-dVrMc9J7Zxr2VRfUTfjuyZu-VrX4FOwpgubjjq3LyyVLJ7xDA2r2MsFkKKVJUfQoy3O4DIGjruk0qJpM4RuXleSn8LEcisza5olB5Z82yEjzDd3etoJ-X_Q5Uu/s1600/P1020867.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqDT67LqRym6zq1METK-dVrMc9J7Zxr2VRfUTfjuyZu-VrX4FOwpgubjjq3LyyVLJ7xDA2r2MsFkKKVJUfQoy3O4DIGjruk0qJpM4RuXleSn8LEcisza5olB5Z82yEjzDd3etoJ-X_Q5Uu/s640/P1020867.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The old houses here were generally built in the 1800s. This is an exception.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGDpTCngjYbFs7J68XuuiFDZ_Mi3CGtoyAA5iHyPtKnVNfXpEkl5CI_FYLGiF1yG9yRBHa9-5AzErSFrRJhdxRj3GwXmr6WcMdJ9FfXXDUy0dUhhBeZrINyeK0VU7xYri23XCqaEeW4hKs/s1600/P1020869.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGDpTCngjYbFs7J68XuuiFDZ_Mi3CGtoyAA5iHyPtKnVNfXpEkl5CI_FYLGiF1yG9yRBHa9-5AzErSFrRJhdxRj3GwXmr6WcMdJ9FfXXDUy0dUhhBeZrINyeK0VU7xYri23XCqaEeW4hKs/s640/P1020869.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi17Zo1uOTgMXE3orUxFpAH5szraR2gDIejvbuZenoL1dlYmpr2HEGnqw5InubrikmyDjjiEYEGpun-E5ayyxa0vlVToJgmiJqSY1pFYbfMwrx_NsccCdW-BjQljZmpGSJX3J7i1irCAzBU/s1600/P1020870.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi17Zo1uOTgMXE3orUxFpAH5szraR2gDIejvbuZenoL1dlYmpr2HEGnqw5InubrikmyDjjiEYEGpun-E5ayyxa0vlVToJgmiJqSY1pFYbfMwrx_NsccCdW-BjQljZmpGSJX3J7i1irCAzBU/s640/P1020870.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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These folks are just as determined to maintain their property as I am mine. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis-X2EC0KkT2xHyp7uq2psqw94aRlagJ2B855eo-z8d0gJay2gD8vN7sGuLSWLIjZ6VKZjcX84p3iLpOOyqGg81WhrboxYujJZIIhcF8YFYXzWdGpFNKTHKCYr7QTvd2IeAy0_894X9beW/s1600/P1020871.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis-X2EC0KkT2xHyp7uq2psqw94aRlagJ2B855eo-z8d0gJay2gD8vN7sGuLSWLIjZ6VKZjcX84p3iLpOOyqGg81WhrboxYujJZIIhcF8YFYXzWdGpFNKTHKCYr7QTvd2IeAy0_894X9beW/s640/P1020871.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIqzWlqkTDgZTqAqhP_6oKNzDeBFfv3ihgNVj9CRtvJCjoZxu4HCxZcQrByBp6KvkbClhBOqp1ZjazTID-Pr6c9XXbA0KA3hY7Ea1mrTPy23X6RNp-qvDCYmXwznpUuZrek0Y9XomTDzv3/s1600/P1020872.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIqzWlqkTDgZTqAqhP_6oKNzDeBFfv3ihgNVj9CRtvJCjoZxu4HCxZcQrByBp6KvkbClhBOqp1ZjazTID-Pr6c9XXbA0KA3hY7Ea1mrTPy23X6RNp-qvDCYmXwznpUuZrek0Y9XomTDzv3/s640/P1020872.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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President Lincoln's private secretaries (and biographers) </div>
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John G. Nicolay and John M. Hay summered in this house. </div>
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It's one of the few times I was stopped in my tracks by a historical plaque.</div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">History is thirsty work. Looking for some food and drink sent me first to Kate's, which was closed, then to the General Store, which had a selection of ready-to-eat food but wouldn't take a credit card, and finally to Sea Dips ice cream shop--which would only take my card if I spent ten dollars or more. Ice cream for dinner! It took a little creative accounting to make everything work out, but I got to enjoy my ice cream in air-condioned comfort and went back to the beach well-satisfied.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Two boats co<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; display: inline; float: none; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: center; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">ming in under asymmetric spinnaker. Are they racing? (A trick question.) Besides official races, sailboats are nearly always racing when they have a neighbor <span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; display: inline; float: none; font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: center; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">of similar size </span>going in the same direction on the same stretch of water. Previously relaxed sailing will subtly give way to disciplined sail trimming, and the helmsman will put down their book or beverage and become attentive to the slightest shift of wind, and the ruffled water that shows where air is moving. Progress can be judged by watching your competitor's boat against background trees. To outward appearance, neither crew will even be aware of the others existence. And of course both skippers will strenuously deny they were ever racing--especially the loser.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbgLj-khIGCRSzUQBOfyzd79Yw8yZIh7OEH7v5j9q2ilVGqphiJRfH-2hT99RIPqpaCZeQ_dSoixoOAhzTsMfK2DIseLuLOApI7v0aihOzBxc0sXr2G-WyJ83-2HEMC9fXdBf0yX9CYn1e/s1600/P1020887.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbgLj-khIGCRSzUQBOfyzd79Yw8yZIh7OEH7v5j9q2ilVGqphiJRfH-2hT99RIPqpaCZeQ_dSoixoOAhzTsMfK2DIseLuLOApI7v0aihOzBxc0sXr2G-WyJ83-2HEMC9fXdBf0yX9CYn1e/s640/P1020887.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="640" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
A panoramic look at the anchorage, with close-ups of some of the residents.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJZOdS5lZOgki_aRqWx4OtL7iHMYIs78dGEdmlP5V_kQd4rpM0Q7Yoj4f13iv_TtfuoaPH3gzfw09k2aPXvLUuBgJSPZWPYS47rnddNv7Df7CDWd_ZIXB3M4hODIHaN7MRx8mtCYBMH2b0/s1600/P1020877.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJZOdS5lZOgki_aRqWx4OtL7iHMYIs78dGEdmlP5V_kQd4rpM0Q7Yoj4f13iv_TtfuoaPH3gzfw09k2aPXvLUuBgJSPZWPYS47rnddNv7Df7CDWd_ZIXB3M4hODIHaN7MRx8mtCYBMH2b0/s640/P1020877.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLoBewn6ZkByD6ImePmBc-yhush3fC78jOxCzBJ0tDCNa7NvFsjHC8z0MHiOR64jExv1lKGLcWx8-gmJHAcnlgW7RnbFdzmwHzJC_dVS5mi-wuRf3QhmzABvbVxE1Z4KngcBWvgAo2kDY_/s1600/P1020884.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLoBewn6ZkByD6ImePmBc-yhush3fC78jOxCzBJ0tDCNa7NvFsjHC8z0MHiOR64jExv1lKGLcWx8-gmJHAcnlgW7RnbFdzmwHzJC_dVS5mi-wuRf3QhmzABvbVxE1Z4KngcBWvgAo2kDY_/s640/P1020884.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga1TCrvd0CYY3FYr99vIk-izb16SWQFiTP8BI8CAed8IFqzHyjzVyJbKifwow6va5_X5cWzVGazar4muMwRER-Sz4e-d3R29lOYWTrc6Q5mYShf05DdSSTbWaK4FlzMQd1fbjiIvUlTQP7/s1600/P1020888.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga1TCrvd0CYY3FYr99vIk-izb16SWQFiTP8BI8CAed8IFqzHyjzVyJbKifwow6va5_X5cWzVGazar4muMwRER-Sz4e-d3R29lOYWTrc6Q5mYShf05DdSSTbWaK4FlzMQd1fbjiIvUlTQP7/s640/P1020888.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJRjamt2lYkyKuMrdDzSPEdYQ67sOle1igzUgayABU0JVkq57rnq9_zBLJQMAIxhVP14REp-mU7WgNId7i3XNVBvxIpb04cnIneVB4x4Ur3r4aTkeNhFPfKDlDEvM9GbEsy9teGvIn8wZX/s1600/P1020889.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJRjamt2lYkyKuMrdDzSPEdYQ67sOle1igzUgayABU0JVkq57rnq9_zBLJQMAIxhVP14REp-mU7WgNId7i3XNVBvxIpb04cnIneVB4x4Ur3r4aTkeNhFPfKDlDEvM9GbEsy9teGvIn8wZX/s640/P1020889.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Showing-off such a handsome wooden hull must cost a mint in upkeep.</div>
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Sunset.</div>
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Night.</div>
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My favorite place to sit and relax or read once the sun is gone is the port bench, using the</div>
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cabin as a backrest. The only think lacking is a good place to put my wine glass.</div>
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Jeffrey Michals-Brownhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875231268940338643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454505000240746883.post-21108588427590175642018-08-16T19:05:00.001-04:002018-08-16T19:49:14.216-04:00Buzzards Bay 2: Cuttyhunk to Quissett Harbor<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">I took a little time to move the mizzen to its usual place and step the main; winds of 5-10 knots gusting to 20 were expected, and I decided to risk these gusts if they appeared. I raised anchor at about 2:20 and sailed out of the harbor. The water was nearly flat compared to the day before: there was no spray, and the kayak rode behind with a steady hiss. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Cuttyhunk was behind, the rest of the Elizabeth Islands ahead. I decided to do something a little peculiar that accompanied a long-ago determination to gradually sail all the coastline available to me: I would photograph the shores of all the Elizabeth Islands as I passed, omitting nothing. It took me awhile to get my technique down, and I wasn't always consistent. There are a LOT of photos here, so don't try to do more than run your eye down them. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">I was interested in the geology and ecology I was seeing. The whole bay including the Elizabeth Islands, neighboring Martha's Vineyard (and I expect Nantucket) is a jumble of glacial moraine material deposited by the most recent (Wisconsinin) ice sheet that receded about 12,000 years ago. Underneath it, at depths up to 100 meters, is very old (Proterozoic aka Precambrian) bedrock that forms a gently southeast-trending valley. The moraine (mixture of boulders, cobbles, sand, silt, and clay) was laid down on land, since sea level was much lower (all that water tied up in ice caps; later, the sea rose as the ice melted and gradually drowned all but the higher hills, which are now the islands, etc. You will see many places in the photos where wave erosion has cut into low hills and bluffs, washing away smaller sediments and leaving the larger cobbles and boulders on the shoreline. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">I don't know the land use history of the Elizabeth Islands, but a little help comes from an <a href="https://www.wanderer.com/features/a-brief-history-of-the-elizabeth-islands/">article</a> based on Seth Mendell's talk, A Brief History of the Elizabeth Islands. The Wampanoags had a presence in the islands when Europeans arrived. Bartholeme Gosnold "discovered" them in 1630, naming them for his (English) queen (as well as Marth's Vineyard possibly after his daughter). He was not sufficiently provisioned to start a colony, and so went home. The islands were early valued for timber, and substantially denuded. Sheep were pastured in the islands--a common practice in bay islands, where the water made a natural "fence." Sheep are still pastured on Nashawena. For a long time the islands were owned by James Bowdoin and family; he bought them around 1730 and was landlord to as many as twenty tenant sheep farmers, their business concentrated around Tarpaulin Cove on the south side of Naushon--the largest island. Piracy was also a local industry among the busy shipping of colonial times. John Murray Forbes began buying islands in the chain in the mid-1800s. "<span style="background-color: transparent; color: #111111; display: inline; float: none; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">He called the place 'an unspoiled jewel' and set about making improvement such as better drainage, stone walls to hold the sheep in certain locations, and the planting of thousands of trees to aid in erosion control. After a while, he would buy out all remaining Bowdoin heirs. <span style="background-color: transparent; color: #111111; display: inline; float: none; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">When the government wanted to set up a penal colony on Nashawena in 1904, Malcolm Forbes bought that island to keep it from becoming “something they didn’t want,” Mendell said. The Forbes family had been good stewards of the island, said Mendell, preventing their beauty from being sullied by commercial development.</span></span></span>" Of course, the islands are also being kept unsullied by visitors: all but Cuttyhunk and the even smaller Penikese are owned by the Forbes trust, and "no trespassing" signs are a prominent feature of the shorelines. Oddly, Cuttyhunk is the town seat of Gosnold, which includes all the Elizabeth Islands,by virtue of the simple fact it is the only place a non-Forbes can live. Today, Naushon is predominantly a forest landscape, while the other islands are predominantly shrubs and open ground; Pasque has only a scattering of trees. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Google Earth shows a few houses on Nashawena, Pasque, and the west and middle of Naushon, but nearly all of the dozen-or-so homes on the Forbes-owned islands are at the east end of Naushon and the small neighboring islands of Uncatena and Nonamesset, which are connected to the larger island by bridges. Here, the residents are a short boat-ride <span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; display: inline; float: none; font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">across Woods Hole </span>from the lively community of West Falmouth.</span><br />
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I thought my hat was adequate sun protection for my face.</div>
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I was wrong, but didn't realize it until much too late.</div>
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<iframe width="320" height="266" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i9.ytimg.com/vi/2fSjzhieegg/default.jpg?sqp=CPyY2NsF&rs=AOn4CLBLZDTcWsS3A_eJ1e-Wlflx7e5ACg" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/2fSjzhieegg?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div>
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Smooth sailing. This is Naushon.</div>
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Close along Naushon.</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Nashawena</span></div>
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Quick's Hole, between Nashawena and Pasque Island</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Pasque Island</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> Pasque Island close-ups</span></div>
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Robinson Hole, between Pasque Island and Naushon Island</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Naushon Island</span></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
Tiny Weepecket Islands, which lie just north of Naushon near Woods Hole.</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">End of Naushon</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Between Naushon and Uncatena</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Uncatena</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Classic gaff sloops racing in Woods Hole</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Well-protected Quisset Harbor was my refuge for the night. I dropped anchor in daylight, but had to move when I found my area littered with submerged boulders. (I had also forgotten to check the exact location of the permitted anchorage.) After a little planning for iffy weather forecast for the morrow, I slept pretty well.</span><br />
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Jeffrey Michals-Brownhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875231268940338643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454505000240746883.post-40778008900711186962018-08-14T23:42:00.001-04:002018-08-14T23:42:14.213-04:00Buzzards Bay 1: Fairhaven to Cuttyhunk<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<div dir="ltr" id="docs-internal-guid-36bddbbc-7fff-ceb8-bf09-2a410c574dae" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: 22.08px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-top: 0px; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">I have sailed all the coast that's visible, except Connecticut and most of the inside of Cape Cod Bay.</span>
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My summer adventures have declined over the years, until the big boat went into the water only once or twice a season, and then not at all. I’m pushing sixty, out of shape, and have had job reverses, so my enthusiasm for sailing adventure isn’t what it has been, and readying the boat increasingly feels like work. My boys have outgrown the desire to crew. I still get out for short jaunts by kayak once in a great while. I sailed my smaller cabin boat to Prudence Island last spring, and made an abortive attempt by kayak on the Wampanoag Historical Canoe Passage last August, but when I began clearing accumulated junk off the big boat it had not been out of the garage in three years. </span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;" />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Although I didn’t have the wanderlust of past years, a growing sense was overtaking me that the </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Beatrice Ann</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, my first and largest boat build, needed to feel wind and saltwater again. I knew the journey should be more than an overnight simply to be worth the effort of preparation. It wouldn’t do just to revisit old haunts, but I also didn’t want to drive far to reach unfamiliar waters. I knew I needed a destination worth the visit. These limited my options: alone and with one or two of my boys I had sailed just about the entire coast of Massachusetts and Rhode Island, and the islands from Block Island to Martha’s Vineyard to Nantucket, over the thirteen years since I had finished building the </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Beatrice Ann</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">. Two ideas presented themselves: either a trip to Martha’s Vineyard, which has enough shoreline, things to see and do, and good public transit to make up for the familiarity bred by past trips; or a circuit of Buzzards Bay, which we had only partially accomplished one time years ago. One Buzzards Bay port in particular--Marion--would be worth revisiting. In the first instance, the boat would be transportation, in the second, it would be integral to the experience. I chose the latter. </span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb7fbrLiRna8nJ3wLliNr7lpMDSuIQ1KPCBedagS7Riu_X83P6Kr8MFDxb3ioWsoYraf5UDZWgQWVabLrsOUAiPLVA5jDbYNUBLfqBmogtUh4sllZoB3xYoZ5dCiD9SkxVKfUCy9neqYuN/s1600/Buzzards+Bay.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="787" data-original-width="1600" height="314" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb7fbrLiRna8nJ3wLliNr7lpMDSuIQ1KPCBedagS7Riu_X83P6Kr8MFDxb3ioWsoYraf5UDZWgQWVabLrsOUAiPLVA5jDbYNUBLfqBmogtUh4sllZoB3xYoZ5dCiD9SkxVKfUCy9neqYuN/s640/Buzzards+Bay.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Buzzards Bay, adjacent to Cape Cod.</div>
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<br style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;" /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: 22.08px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-top: 0px; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I figured to do a counterclockwise circuit of Buzzards Bay, beginning at Hoppy's Landing in Fairhaven outside New Bedford Harbor. (The Harbor has a nice ramp, but also a tricky hurricane barrier that is difficult to sail through unless current and wind are just so). I briefly considered launching in Narragansett Bay, perhaps at Fogland in the Sakonnet River, to make more of an adventure of it, but decided I wanted to maximize my time and energy in Buzzards Bay. I figured to be out a leisurely three or four nights.</span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;" />
<div dir="ltr" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: 22.08px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-top: 0px; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">There was a tremendous amount of work to do to get Beatrice Ann ready for sea. Small animals had made it there own for several winters. Lockers and the gear stored in them needed to be cleaned and aired. The mainsail I had mistreated until it needed major conservation. Various of the wood bits needed to be disassembled, sanded, varnished and reassembled. I wanted to take another crack at shelter in the cockpit from sun. I discovered a significant crack in the transom that I probably caused when backing the trailer into the garage years ago. Navigation lights flickered, and the new compass needed to be wired in for light, so the electrical system needed work. A new electrical connector from trailer to car was wanted. The trailer registration had expired years ago. </span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;" />
<div dir="ltr" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: 22.08px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-top: 0px; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Navigating the enclosed waters of Buzzards Bay shouldn’t present too many challenges, but experience taught me not to be cavalier. The old dedicated gps was about dead, so I loaded a good app on my new tablet and learned to use it; tablet, new phone and fancy new camera would need protection from deadly saltwater. There were charts to run my finger over, and a cruising guide with tips on anchorages and getting ashore to pore over. </span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;" />
<div dir="ltr" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: 22.08px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-top: 0px; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I began working through the long list over several weeks. I had thought this time to have the freedom to wait on weather rather than scheduling a departure and making do whatever the conditions, but my long preparations forced my hand: I needed to finish the trip before the second full week in August. </span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;" />
<div dir="ltr" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: 22.08px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-top: 0px; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I set out early in the afternoon on Monday, August 7th in the middle of a heat wave. Strong winds and high waves dictated that I leave under reduced sail. My boat--a cat ketch--has an unusual rig in which normal reefing doesn’t work very well, but I can instead keep the mainsail furled and sail with mizzen alone moved into a special step. A big disadvantage is that it cannot be done on the fly; I must be anchored or on the trailer to move the mast. </span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;" />
<div dir="ltr" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: 22.08px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-top: 0px; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The first day’s sail was meant to work to windward west along the coast and then cross the bay to Cuttyhunk, a small island with a good harbor. Wind and waves made for slow going, and there was near-constant spray: I shivered with cold for hours, despite listening to the weather radio warn of overheating. The occasional wave broke over the coaming, leaving me dripping and sputtering and the cockpit floor awash until the automatic bailer could clear it all out. Instead of trying to stay near shore, I instead tacked repeatedly across the bay trying to make better progress. As night fell, I was still short of my destination. Plan B, created on the fly, was to snug into the lee of Nashawena Island, just a mile or so short of Cuttyhunk Harbor. The north shore of Nashawena slanted deeply into the water only a few dozen yards from shore, so I would need to get close to the beach to anchor in sufficiently shallow water. I didn't carry my waterproof camera, so I have no photos of that day.</span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;" />
<div dir="ltr" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: 22.08px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-top: 0px; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">At 9pm it was so dark that the island was only a vague shape ahead. (My navigation lights show other boats where I am, but do not illuminate anything else.) I wondered how to know when I was close enough, but not in danger of piling up on the rocks. Then I began to hear the crickets singing! The sound grew, until it seemed deafening, and I finally let the sail luff and went forward to drop the anchor: the water was less than ten feet deep--perfect.</span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;" />
<div dir="ltr" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: 22.08px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-top: 0px; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I sleep better clean, so the first order of business after furling the sail was to take a sponge bath to get rid of the salt. After a sandwich for supper, I laid out coffee things for the morning, wiggled into my bunk and slept--despite the rocking and slap of waves on the hull.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4ZpbU05cUIz_nAVqhcBr45uJlKj2jZC_-zgaoBPqKbVlfMr38BuUfjGk5fcrtnbVQHkG5xEI9-LTU-Kp1zcZWV6h4PxuZSI8DzKc4Y9LqPEIip-Erwjd0fmRms38g7wX9Nu1-zS7xhZiM/s1600/P1020515.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4ZpbU05cUIz_nAVqhcBr45uJlKj2jZC_-zgaoBPqKbVlfMr38BuUfjGk5fcrtnbVQHkG5xEI9-LTU-Kp1zcZWV6h4PxuZSI8DzKc4Y9LqPEIip-Erwjd0fmRms38g7wX9Nu1-zS7xhZiM/s640/P1020515.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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I was a bit east of where I'd thought: these rocks should not have been there.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibfUk0RnRz5vMScS9WwGyfrAUEPjfxF_xc7VBvl8_mU3Qe-I999JbNBvWuuVWdL5R4HW1llHXgyK0ivBYV_karXOLRB5po-n6_JzVB9L0vS99Q77prUfkqfLKo-_ULD85ce31F_KglG259/s1600/P1020518.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibfUk0RnRz5vMScS9WwGyfrAUEPjfxF_xc7VBvl8_mU3Qe-I999JbNBvWuuVWdL5R4HW1llHXgyK0ivBYV_karXOLRB5po-n6_JzVB9L0vS99Q77prUfkqfLKo-_ULD85ce31F_KglG259/s640/P1020518.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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I could not have dropped anchor even thirty seconds later than I did.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimV5N7ngDmNh9nqoaO-6jcKgO6tHYGVkEkNeDhWyVb9r6iQRJGWl32BN2-CIZhJWCfFw6b4yoeFXPOLLK_yftLB3r8RhU1rS6OaQ3HheZ_GF-gdB9bXLQ12BXB4ojwjDCtJ58DMxhJgK3n/s1600/P1020520.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimV5N7ngDmNh9nqoaO-6jcKgO6tHYGVkEkNeDhWyVb9r6iQRJGWl32BN2-CIZhJWCfFw6b4yoeFXPOLLK_yftLB3r8RhU1rS6OaQ3HheZ_GF-gdB9bXLQ12BXB4ojwjDCtJ58DMxhJgK3n/s640/P1020520.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">I decided not to take the time to move the mizzen and step the main </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">before going the rest of the way to Cuttyhunk.</span></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;"></span><br /></span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The usual gymnastics got me out of my bunk just after six, and I brushed my teeth and took photos while the coffee water boiled. My wife had made me "breakfast bars" for the trip, and these perfectly complemented a huge cup of coffee. About 9am I raised anchor and made my slow way the mile to Cuttyhunk in the light morning breeze.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhF5-AaZP8FRGFEYRFtlW016nXjeNfWU7HwnYqroHydooeBm8-kfWpnCduSJz589s1yNXJ1SlbXNuGLYIwho7RGj98cd1mrQ1d5hOBlAopwksgnCrmSz0fBAKJWE3Q4htaPLwy3zO96pg6/s1600/P1020522a.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhF5-AaZP8FRGFEYRFtlW016nXjeNfWU7HwnYqroHydooeBm8-kfWpnCduSJz589s1yNXJ1SlbXNuGLYIwho7RGj98cd1mrQ1d5hOBlAopwksgnCrmSz0fBAKJWE3Q4htaPLwy3zO96pg6/s640/P1020522a.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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It's harbor is on the left, while the bulk of Cuttyhunk is on the right.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWy0YK6OtAp-EtfwnAtkVv3nzhyphenhyphenXpQyptbKEBY4OMzZJMZwP4hi1eX4Z5pHvlcQlW_PfP78-auB-_XUX-vBLVQ-j4VQ2-J2yNcErMlmOIHBbkS0QHdx24mwqfannOPzgTUn7XG6ZKX41aM/s1600/P1020529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWy0YK6OtAp-EtfwnAtkVv3nzhyphenhyphenXpQyptbKEBY4OMzZJMZwP4hi1eX4Z5pHvlcQlW_PfP78-auB-_XUX-vBLVQ-j4VQ2-J2yNcErMlmOIHBbkS0QHdx24mwqfannOPzgTUn7XG6ZKX41aM/s640/P1020529.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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As I approached the harbor, the megayacht Serque was leaving, towing a massively overpowered "tender." (You can charter this professionally-crewed yacht for yourself and a dozen friends </div>
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for as little as $105,000 per week--plus expenses, of course.) I prefer my own kind of fun.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6KACALhnXw7BLgySndretyc3aobo3__vBULnAL-624PtlruxOXHf0EVguJ9FM174yzeGuIhFv6qVZb5R_NlE8qlRP7AgRylbBHtUhw9jYKG0Nb3SPyywiD0EWBZhAYQuV7jb_EKH3PPE_/s1600/P1020524.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6KACALhnXw7BLgySndretyc3aobo3__vBULnAL-624PtlruxOXHf0EVguJ9FM174yzeGuIhFv6qVZb5R_NlE8qlRP7AgRylbBHtUhw9jYKG0Nb3SPyywiD0EWBZhAYQuV7jb_EKH3PPE_/s640/P1020524.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">I was surprised to find the harbor almost empty--I'd expected to see a forest of masts, </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">and did not attempt to come in in the dark partly for that reason.</span></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;"></span><br /></span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I was a little proud of my chosen anchorage: snug up against the beach beside the Pond entrance, and an easy walk from the main roads. Packing my camera and phone into a dry bag, I paddled the few yards to shore and carried the kayak above the high tide line. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">Lined-off nesting areas for endangered p<span style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">iping plovers and terns complicated the walk to the road.</span></span></div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dzzTCH3ztR-5a8E_VGj8DsETu2NMUgUCBh0joLp6L855DTXCqezAWpaHpUKcVUmKsOZ5zQKvIao5V9HuP7wHg' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">Plovers are rather shy, but the tern parents made their displeasure with me clear.</span></div>
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I love beach rose and think of it as characteristic of beaches, even though I know it's an exotic.</div>
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There are a few cars and trucks on the island, but most people get around in golf carts. Homes range from modest to palatial. One sprawling house <span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: black; display: inline !important; float: none; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">(3rd photo) </span>had two garages! --doubtless to store a whole fleet of golf carts. The last house here we might be able to afford. On the other hand, I would find it very limiting to live even for a season on Cuttyhunk. I would always want to be going somewhere.</div>
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The town center boasts a church that holds worship for different denominations at different times, a library, the historical society, and even an elementary school. The church was holding a fair using the grounds of the historical society that day.</div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I'd been to Cuttyhunk twice before years ago. The last time I'd been unable to find any store open, while now there are several, as well as one or two funky eateries. The market where I purchased my root beer (drunk very carefully after I broke the top of the bottle trying to get the cap off), and the Sopranos restaurant--which looks like a homeowner's idea of something cool to do.</span><br style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;" /><b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Cuttyhunk Pond is an anchorage well-protected from all directions, and a favorite of sailors. On my previous visits I didn't consider anchoring anywhere else, even though it can be a bear to get in and out of with no motor. It's a good place to people-watch, and look at boat porn.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The island's diesel electrical generating station is a little removed from "downtown," and on the way to the rod and gun club (and B&B), the cemetery, the Audubon preserve, and finally the monument to Bartholomew Gosnold, the European "discoverer" of the islands after which the town of Gosnold is named.</span><br />
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The cemetery wasn't as old as I'd expected, with death dates seeming to go back only to the late 19th century. There were stories to be surmised, deaths of children and young people, war deaths, and a monument to one young man lost at sea.</div>
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I was disappointed to miss the historical society, but it wouldn't be open until 2pm, by which time I expected to be leaving the harbor. The hot-pink kayak was waiting to carry me back to the anchored boat.</div>
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Jeffrey Michals-Brownhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875231268940338643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454505000240746883.post-71423836931085910742017-08-16T00:34:00.000-04:002017-08-16T00:34:04.619-04:00Wampanoag Canoe Passage: 2. Attempt<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">No, I didn't get far. But my failure may be instructive.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I reconnoitered a couple of days before the attempt, checking out most of the roads I would need to cross and portages that were called for in the first half of the Passage. One portage had become nearly impossible: the one from Little Sandy Bottom Pond to Stetson Pond was supposed to cross a cranberry bog, but the bog was overgrown with no clear way in or across. I drove an alternate portage of well over a mile with the first stretch on a busy road with no shoulder. Much of the rest was very hilly--challenging even to drive. My recon left me pessimistic, so I planned to get as far as I could, rather than believing I could do the whole thing.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The passage is supposed to begin where route 3A crosses the North River. The marina just upstream of the bridge wanted fifteen dollars for me to put my kayak in the water--it would have been twice that if I needed to use the ramp or park! The boatyard on the downstream side of the bridge wouldn't allow me to put in at all. A little park beside rt 3A had adjacent a drainage ditch, but when I arrived with boat and gear, the ditch proved to be mud even at half-tide. So off we went to the Driftway, a little local park that gives free access to the north branch of the river, adding about two miles to the paddling.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The North River is tidal supposedly all the way to Pembroke, as Herring Brook. Tide at the river mouth is the same as at Boston, which was low at about 1pm. I pushed off with my fully-laden two-person kayak <i>Serendipity</i> before 3:30pm. Although the first mile was against the tidal current as I headed first downriver towards the main channel, it was mild enough not to slow me much.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The kayak was full with--</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">1. a large dry-bag with an air mattress, light sleeping bag, "chaps" for negotiating brambles, etc., made of old jeans, a jacket, several changes of clothing, and dry shoes.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">2. a small dry-bag with a number of things that I might want to get at under way, including a change of clothes, rain suit, headlamp, first aid kit, D-cell-powered charging set up for my phone and camera, and spare batteries for charger and GPS.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">3. a cloth bag with stuff I wanted available from the boat that wasn't endangered by water, including sunscreen, insect repellent, head net, knife, GPS, compass, "wamping shoes," and pruning shear.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">4. the cooking box containing stove, pot, travel mug, dishes and silver, lighter, coffee and tea, etc. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">5. a food bag containing several days worth of meals and snacks.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">6. loose in the boat were the tent, a spare paddle, bailer, chamois for cleaning up water, kayak seat (really a folding beach chair), my hat, and a machete. Of course I wore my life jacket.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">7. the folded-up kayak dolly that I made partly to make it possible to portage the kayak single-handed.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The gear crowded me and I couldn't move easily. (I'd not expected a problem, since I'd done a trial loading for a winter trip that didn't materialize. This presents a mystery: though this trip added the kayak dolly and bushwacking tools, it also omitted two full-sized sleeping bags and bulky cold-weather clothes.)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The lowest mile or two of the North River is ruled by powerboats based at marinas. (The one I reconnoitered with the exorbitant ramp fee had an outdoor deck where drinks were being served to nicely-dressed customers. Not my kind of establishment.) The salt marsh on either bank is extensive and healthy-looking. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">As I got higher into the river, cabin cruisers gave way to small runabouts, then skiffs, and the marsh changed to freshwater. Entering Stetson Marsh, I came upon the first "island"--a small but rather high hill whose feet bathed in the river. Teenagers on a nearby bank led me to keep paddling. I came to two more, lower, "islands." The last had a powerboat drawn up on the shore, so I paddled farther to see if there were any more camping places. Finding none, I turned back to the last, where the powerboat had just motored away, and went ashore. All of this time, and for some time after, the current continued to flow slowly upriver. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I cannot compare it to the two islands I passed up, but this was a great camp site. A clearing in the middle at a low elevation had a stone ring fireplace with a couple of plank benches. At the back and higher up was a site just big enough for my 3-man tent, with a view of the marsh below. A few steps away was an overlook, where you could contemplate events in the marsh perhaps ten feet below your feet with a morning cup of coffee or an evening glass of wine in hand. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Tired and unwilling to use mosquito repellent, I did not light up the stove but dined on tortilla chips and cheesy dip, and of course after-dinner wine. I didn't sleep well: the air mattress which used to be adequate for sleeping is no more: it's too narrow, making it difficult to roll over. (Next time I will take my self-inflating camp mattress; I've already figured out how to strap it to the rear deck to make enough room.) </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The next day I had a lazy breakfast of oatmeal with a huge cup of coffee despite the danger of missing my tide, and didn't leave until about 8:40am--when the water was already higher than when I'd landed the evening before. I passed under route 3 less than an hour later; the tidal current sped up under the bridge, but not enough to cause real concern. I continued to ride the incoming (albeit slow) tide for the whole of the morning and a little beyond. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I somehow passed the confluence with the Indian Head River without realizing, later finding I'd mistaken a later little offshoot channel for the Indian Head River. Herring Brook narrowed and became increasingly choked by waterweed and then grass, until I could not be sure where the channel was. I worried that I would miss a left-hand turn that the instructions spoke of, and constantly probed for alternative channels. Finding the right channel should have been easy: I had made Google Earth images of the entire passage and put them in my phone, I had Google Maps in my phone with its built-in GPS, and I had an actual dedicated GPS (really intended for keeping track of distance run). </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">But a few simple, practical issues kept me confused. First, Google Maps would rotate the image to conform with my direction, but slow movement and the meandering stream meant it never settled in one direction, so that I was constantly trying to orient myself. The sun was too high to make a good compass. The phone screen was not bright enough in full sun, so that I had great difficulty in seeing the tiny blue thread that marked the supposed channels, and difficulty converting what I saw into compass directions. The Google Earth images, besides being difficult to see in the sun, were of little help without a precise idea of where I was. And the hand-held GPS was a cheap model with only the most rudimentary map. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The one thing that could have helped at that moment was the Google Earth app: I did not realize it at the time, but a few touches on the screen would bring up a dot on my position. (I was convinced the feature should exist, but didn't find it while afloat.) But even this has its drawbacks: I have since found that it is often only good to the nearest 10 meters. The little winding stream I was trying to follow had meanders so sharp that I sometimes had to work my 16 foot kayak around them by degrees, going forward and back several times to make the turn. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">High in the brook, and shortly after working the boat over a sunken branch, I decided I had made a wrong turn and had to return the way I'd come. But the boat could not be turned around in a channel barely five feet wide, so--unable to paddle backwards without a way to see behind me, I put on my "wamping shoes," climbed out of the kayak, and half waded, half swum the boat backwards until I had room to work it around. I was surprised to find that the channel almost as deep as wide, with sides sloping steeply: until I learned to keep my weight off the slippery bottom by lying on my stomach on the kayak foredeck, I was in danger of slipping underneath the boat. Afraid of upsetting kayak and gear by trying to climb in in deep water, I finally found a submerged branch I could balance on, and flopped back into my seat.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Convinced I needed to backtrack to find the right channel, I decided to go back downriver a little. I also wanted to find some shade so that I could rest, possibly make out my phone screen, and recharge the phone. It was then that I downloaded the Google Earth app, but failed to find the trick to locating myself on it. It was now nearing midafternoon, and the current had reversed. I tried a bit more to find possible alternative channels in the sea of surrounding grass using a useful trick: a mass of shrubs and small trees very near shows no channel in that direction, since these need soil above water in which too grow. This trick isn't foolproof, though: the windings of the channel might skirt shrubbery and then change direction to find a way through that isn't evident from my vantage point. The current was too weak to indicate the channel through the choking grass. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">In the end, the only direction I could go with any confidence was back down the river. I abandoned the attempt for now, and headed back down, planning to pull out at Pantooset Farms, just up from the route 53 bridge. Arriving there in late afternoon, it became clear that no farm existed there: my guess is that it had been sold to developers years before, resulting in the high-priced condo development I could see in its stead. So instead I pulled the boat through ankle-deep mud to a private ramp, assembled the dolly, and got everything to the street, possibly leaving the absent owner none the wiser. My patient wife picked me up an hour later.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">
Post Mortem</span></h3>
<b><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Navigation</span></b><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">After the fact, I was able to figure out my position at every point along the journey by manually plotting latitudes and longitudes from my old hand-held GPS onto Google Earth. I now know that I was in the right channel when I decided to turn around, but I also know I was unable to figure out where to go next in the sea of grass. I could not find my way in a little, meandering stream merely by knowing the general direction I was bound: the meanders often took me ninety degrees or even more from that overall trend at any given moment. The best tool is probably the Google Earth app, keeping in mind that it cannot reliably show you the channel, but it can certainly narrow down the choices to about a ten meter width most of the time. I have found that Google Earth typically locates my position about twenty feet southeast of my actual position, but once it was an inexplicable half-mile off. The hand-held GPS is still good for basic information such as distance and speed, and the track can be plotted on Google Earth afterwards. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><b><br /></b>
<b>Physical Issues</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Discomfort and fatigue were factors in abandoning the attempt. I'm not young anymore, nor in good shape. I hadn't slept well. My seat did not allow for changes in position, and it wasn't soft enough for such long sitting. The difficulty of getting in and out of the kayak exacerbated this. There was no gentle bank on which I could disembark: water in which the kayak could float was usually at least thigh deep, often with a soft mud bottom. I worried about overturning the kayak if I needed to get back aboard from deeper water.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Despite my efforts to avoid blisters on my fingers (bandaids in advance on places I've gotten them in the past), I got at least one anyway. Gloves are in order on the next long paddle. My old gel padded bicycling gloves might do the trick.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The seat was another source of annoyance: I got very sore from sitting in the same position for seven hours with only one break. This despite having padded my seat with the nearly-deflated air mattress from the night before. I have a gel kneeling pad that I may try next, or a small inflated inner tube. (The inner tube could also double as a paddle float to help stabilize myself and the boat when getting in and out in deeper water.)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Some equipment needs to go, or at least be distributed to leave room for me to move. My big sleeping mattress will be added, but it can be tied on the rear deck to leave room in the cockpit. At risk of raising the center of gravity a bit, some gear can be tied atop big dry bag. I am unsure what equipment can be left behind. The machete was probably overkill, but takes up very little room, and I still don't know how useful it might be. </span><br />
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Lower North River</div>
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Lower river around marinas.</div>
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Lower but more unpeopled North River.</div>
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Drifting with the current.</div>
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Spartina saltmarsh.</div>
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Cattail (freshwater) marsh.</div>
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Stetson Marsh.</div>
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Sunset from camp.<br />
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Landing place.<br />
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Tour of camp.<br />
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Landing place.<br />
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Marsh overlook in evening.</div>
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Loaded for departure. (Looks a bit worse than it is: gray airbed in it for seat cushion.)<br />
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Freshwater marsh dominated here by narrow-leaved cattail.</div>
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Log house right on the river would be an interesting place to live.</div>
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First sign of the grass that would become my nemesis.</div>
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Channel narrows.</div>
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Grass begins to become an impediment. Trees and shrubs near left bank show channel probably doesn't go that way.</div>
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Parked.</div>
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Headed back downriver.</div>
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Jeffrey Michals-Brownhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875231268940338643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454505000240746883.post-90952734309382956262017-08-09T18:29:00.001-04:002017-08-09T18:54:39.293-04:00Wampanoag Historic Canoe Passage 1: Conception<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">I've always thought of myself as an adventurer. As a teenager, I saved up for a frame backpack and kept it in my bedroom, provisioned for sudden needs. --say, if the Soviets invaded, and I needed to hide out in the woods. I did, in fact, use it for occasional overnights--including once or twice in winter--though always close to home. I also sailed a little Styrofoam boat called a Snark, and later a Sunfish. Half-a-dozen or so times I made sail camping trips in the upper part of Narragansett Bay, RI where I grew up. As a college student, I walked home from URI to Warwick one Christmas break, camping out two nights. Nevertheless, I always traveled farther and longer in more challenging conditions in my mind than ever in real life. But I always felt there was an adventure in me, one waiting for me. The wild Alaska of John McPhee's <i>Coming into the Country</i>, perhaps...</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">After many years and much real life intervening, I developed a touch of arthritis, and a year ago a bad knee. I was accustomed to walking the dogs a mile or two, and my knee sometimes made this difficult. In the grand scheme of things, I wasn't bad off, and physical therapy helped. But I had to admit that setting off into real wilderness for a week or more with a pack on my back was never going to happen. "Never had" became "Never would."</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">This was a shock to my system. <i>Possibilities</i> are always before us, until they aren't. I don't feel especially regretful, but do feel a bit sad that I will never do some things. I suppose it comes with age. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">I began thinking about workarounds. Long distance walking with a heavy backpack was out, but not boating. (Most of my adventures in recent years has involved sailing the local inshore waters.) I began looking at videos of canoe trips, searching out wilderness canoe routes. I began to follow public radio in Alaska, trying to get a sense of everyday life there. I watched videos of other peoples' canoe trips. But all of these required travel, which in turn requires money we don't have--in the case of Alaska, lots of it.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Close to home, I looked up the <a href="http://www.tauntonriver.org/Taunton%20Wild%20and%20Scenic/histdocs/Wampanoag%20Canoe%20Passage.pdf">Wampanoag Canoe Passage</a>.*</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The Passage begins near the mouth of the North River on Massachusetts' "south shore" inland into smaller and smaller streams, then hops over roads and cranberry bogs and among ponds and marshes to a tributary of the Taunton River, and thence down this river to Narragansett Bay--a total of some seventy miles traveled--about thirty miles as the crow flies. It is supposed to have been a major waterway of the Wampanoag Indians. I had already traversed about a third of it, in my sailing, drifting and paddling the Taunton River.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The more I studied the account of the Wampanaog Commemorative Canoe Passage, the more excitement I felt at an impending real adventure. I pored over Google Earth images, following the track of the passage as well as I could, and trying to read the landscape and guess at conditions. I found a <a href="http://wampanoag-passage.blogspot.com/">blog by Nik Tyack</a>, who has paddled the passage a number of times to raise funds for a local organization. I found a Google Map with the passage pinned to it. Finally, I created my own maps and a document that was meant to bring together details from these sources into one place. I wanted to be able to decide whether I could accomplish the entire passage myself in a solo kayak. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Before committing myself, I needed to know how much of the passage would be paddling, how much would be portaging, and how much would involve dragging my kayak and gear through knee-deep mud. Nik Tyacks' blog promised all of this, but with little in the way of specifics as to where and when. Adding to the uncertainty, the last trip his blog recorded was six years ago. Clearly, though, it would be an ordeal in some places. Just as clearly, the river and stream levels would be a factor--especially in the smallest and shallowest streams, ponds and marshes.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">My opportunity would come in July--perhaps the driest month on the calendar. Could the trip be managed then? Tyack's all seemed to be in spring or fall. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">I was going to find out.</span><br />
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Mouth of North River, and start of the Passage.<br />
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Stetson Marsh, and the first good campsites.</div>
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Route 3 to the confluence of the Indian Head River.</div>
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confluence of Indian Head River into Herring Brook</div>
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Herring Brook through rt 14 portage<br />
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Mountain Avenue portage through Great Sandy Bottom Pond</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHYMwOg65bIykNo7QFD4BQIYxDKMUwcMUadsovXQy2wlI4-05itUr2Dx4gnSv_PlBxyJzrm8vOl5JgAD2r2fQnq-_GuOiv9oGCinNlrW7BgLW65Ox8OcRDMSuv3VR5IHp319fy0wqx0seL/s1600/Great+Sandy+Bottom+to+Stetson+Pond.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="809" data-original-width="1600" height="322" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHYMwOg65bIykNo7QFD4BQIYxDKMUwcMUadsovXQy2wlI4-05itUr2Dx4gnSv_PlBxyJzrm8vOl5JgAD2r2fQnq-_GuOiv9oGCinNlrW7BgLW65Ox8OcRDMSuv3VR5IHp319fy0wqx0seL/s640/Great+Sandy+Bottom+to+Stetson+Pond.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Great Sandy Bottom Pond to Stetson Pond.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg50_1FHTuwrvX-EgRmXg82isfhdjxZLYtWbkBYkwULF6YyidgjC_T7NugpZ89UkdS7Y-4Na7pIv7AEXvXM7mi09YKplm97dDq-GikOaelsdPjoQ6wOdTJmK-YXh3Ya9aU6eC6KNEBZUocF/s1600/Stetson+Pond+through+most+of+Stump+Brook.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="809" data-original-width="1600" height="322" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg50_1FHTuwrvX-EgRmXg82isfhdjxZLYtWbkBYkwULF6YyidgjC_T7NugpZ89UkdS7Y-4Na7pIv7AEXvXM7mi09YKplm97dDq-GikOaelsdPjoQ6wOdTJmK-YXh3Ya9aU6eC6KNEBZUocF/s640/Stetson+Pond+through+most+of+Stump+Brook.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Stetson Pond through most of Stump Brook. The straight line from Chandler Millpond to East Lake shows my uncertainty over the course of any waterway through the marsh .</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeQXmiKzdOGU_VVzTSfE-C6mbAg73ZzzrtECuz8TDWfOtsEc3IHxcxBpw8pnty6XRsNSRzV5tAHMBbcKCkF7n_oehQrcfkSND7qpUiHAowChFc2-hergIuTaD88HFZGiHdM_V5clnn7xh2/s1600/Stump+Brook+well+into+Satucket+River.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="809" data-original-width="1600" height="322" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeQXmiKzdOGU_VVzTSfE-C6mbAg73ZzzrtECuz8TDWfOtsEc3IHxcxBpw8pnty6XRsNSRzV5tAHMBbcKCkF7n_oehQrcfkSND7qpUiHAowChFc2-hergIuTaD88HFZGiHdM_V5clnn7xh2/s640/Stump+Brook+well+into+Satucket+River.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Stump Brook well into the Satucket River.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSiv10TGAGBYpUZokkYYpz8D5Mq1orSlLY8bWPqMW7Wz2mOJKWzZU4D34LosIeG6f7P8LgqLqitQytFqYrZB7mQhCFtxxOgl3_XrfUAF4GxRBbv9w0YTer97XRRCjIpHM3eSYJL_1SXLqj/s1600/Satucket+River+into+the+Matfield+River.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="809" data-original-width="1600" height="322" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSiv10TGAGBYpUZokkYYpz8D5Mq1orSlLY8bWPqMW7Wz2mOJKWzZU4D34LosIeG6f7P8LgqLqitQytFqYrZB7mQhCFtxxOgl3_XrfUAF4GxRBbv9w0YTer97XRRCjIpHM3eSYJL_1SXLqj/s640/Satucket+River+into+the+Matfield+River.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
Satucket River into the Matfield River.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd5x6S8MfOYInFvKfk-XG3D7re4nhGPTcBBtqyHiCCcNy7Q3sQJmpvk7jj6WlaEUXNfK4CyqIBy_q3Ug6_OmfY3g06SVZCPzFMmWolbpZU7fRq-HKRd0P2GV0gWM_Bp1g-d9wMI_zQimv2/s1600/Matfield+River+into+the+Town+River.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="809" data-original-width="1600" height="322" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd5x6S8MfOYInFvKfk-XG3D7re4nhGPTcBBtqyHiCCcNy7Q3sQJmpvk7jj6WlaEUXNfK4CyqIBy_q3Ug6_OmfY3g06SVZCPzFMmWolbpZU7fRq-HKRd0P2GV0gWM_Bp1g-d9wMI_zQimv2/s640/Matfield+River+into+the+Town+River.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
Matfield River into the Town River.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhaZ5sHKjjVguvVZ7P8lYbVkRdoI8uFPNsUnNpFcOc0ug6p5sPzqxlOUVi_bvPHbQXDYU46TABGAdXFPWxs7Ij8cRXFtk0CrgSTAt1eZO287exC44cPk5SBYD7KuxbaFYJ1cQ_QOGcB9yA/s1600/Taunton+River+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="809" data-original-width="1600" height="322" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhaZ5sHKjjVguvVZ7P8lYbVkRdoI8uFPNsUnNpFcOc0ug6p5sPzqxlOUVi_bvPHbQXDYU46TABGAdXFPWxs7Ij8cRXFtk0CrgSTAt1eZO287exC44cPk5SBYD7KuxbaFYJ1cQ_QOGcB9yA/s640/Taunton+River+1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
Taunton River<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh62l0sL4m3rj86Tkm-dcZfAUBenFt4zckN1FviZrBKTjTZ1VZbwC9mPeTqkddg8gqtSeo5YWcH4QTCqGIiVTZ3rNzNDKY2eIhDt4zFmuwcFbgaexn1LLtpVCPNOpX5EShaNZgVuNKQzZ7h/s1600/Taunton+River+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="809" data-original-width="1600" height="322" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh62l0sL4m3rj86Tkm-dcZfAUBenFt4zckN1FviZrBKTjTZ1VZbwC9mPeTqkddg8gqtSeo5YWcH4QTCqGIiVTZ3rNzNDKY2eIhDt4zFmuwcFbgaexn1LLtpVCPNOpX5EShaNZgVuNKQzZ7h/s640/Taunton+River+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA-AWSttIWs8rmeKuRq5VYCNoVDvWKIXu-LhNQtjs0h-6fzLWfcLh-LCLfab-KhN0JsoftQVcTz_bl9IEheABtgE7fQS86EmAL_v5Z_fdrmaB6yPVwG_jRDMqRBKrNey_0FBOaRPPb8a2l/s1600/Taunton+River+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="809" data-original-width="1600" height="322" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA-AWSttIWs8rmeKuRq5VYCNoVDvWKIXu-LhNQtjs0h-6fzLWfcLh-LCLfab-KhN0JsoftQVcTz_bl9IEheABtgE7fQS86EmAL_v5Z_fdrmaB6yPVwG_jRDMqRBKrNey_0FBOaRPPb8a2l/s640/Taunton+River+3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiinZHRcv0ivTRuQoAuThQa6np4-U3bK_QXE6nmGi5A8jtBlxtyoVXKtodHfIZZvssscifnTO2d1ajBvWYFc0dHndVYbWoZr3NKBmwiiADGiv9tJeBD5nMVDwhcAHCwYqBsNYlkkw4Vka__/s1600/Taunton+River+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="809" data-original-width="1600" height="322" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiinZHRcv0ivTRuQoAuThQa6np4-U3bK_QXE6nmGi5A8jtBlxtyoVXKtodHfIZZvssscifnTO2d1ajBvWYFc0dHndVYbWoZr3NKBmwiiADGiv9tJeBD5nMVDwhcAHCwYqBsNYlkkw4Vka__/s640/Taunton+River+4.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg77qdv7SiIRplArlVk8sAcMoueVdxpSWTLhUkvowB4hCq_DT_sKDSTiD_E9MldKUMtBLwgqvsxfy6sT9OiQ5iQJBV4G2JyWO4rxDgaj9L5-uSdvMHcn75SYzby8uKvGu15K4n43S5g54Hs/s1600/Taunton+5+%2528half+scale%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="809" data-original-width="1600" height="322" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg77qdv7SiIRplArlVk8sAcMoueVdxpSWTLhUkvowB4hCq_DT_sKDSTiD_E9MldKUMtBLwgqvsxfy6sT9OiQ5iQJBV4G2JyWO4rxDgaj9L5-uSdvMHcn75SYzby8uKvGu15K4n43S5g54Hs/s640/Taunton+5+%2528half+scale%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
This and the remaining maps are at half the scale, so that the map is about 3 miles from top to bottom.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMCdNEVBxz4wb2i8lV0xL1PoG5ni4PHKk-m1i3yCDdtNQcu2UOUcKI5OrNIzi9S2757EgmqOXHm8IsoNzFklNXvgKyuqaEj__nBHWYDPIU_enuEJeRopP9ucjmSpKgv7I8sZCpi_2kUzPK/s1600/Taunton+6+%2528half-scale%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="809" data-original-width="1600" height="322" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMCdNEVBxz4wb2i8lV0xL1PoG5ni4PHKk-m1i3yCDdtNQcu2UOUcKI5OrNIzi9S2757EgmqOXHm8IsoNzFklNXvgKyuqaEj__nBHWYDPIU_enuEJeRopP9ucjmSpKgv7I8sZCpi_2kUzPK/s640/Taunton+6+%2528half-scale%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
(Half scale.)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyTDubikEZfRByEP05jPpN1DElNo5bLqYTeaMqsb-_LauV2qaIi4zSd44vBzG3cFeFjEQe2l6Kr-J2ajx8PZM16KTU330NLyKM75thcl0YfeJcXFIAMc_mrjJvXNxV9zWMrQ5DrnCCLuBT/s1600/Taunton+7+%2528half+scale%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="809" data-original-width="1600" height="322" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyTDubikEZfRByEP05jPpN1DElNo5bLqYTeaMqsb-_LauV2qaIi4zSd44vBzG3cFeFjEQe2l6Kr-J2ajx8PZM16KTU330NLyKM75thcl0YfeJcXFIAMc_mrjJvXNxV9zWMrQ5DrnCCLuBT/s640/Taunton+7+%2528half+scale%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
(Half scale.)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhafdViDv6od_npLG5lYeQBaQzKJrPxkwsvyG5hq0TyiGjHBzYJAVz3N87LvAG_PooZe0L1VgPj5K6Jl_kkzNV7Mk-oixn6BHNFUR13M6yMN66_hTLu-_aG_rNsnVgk3wmDx_R_2W_RDg5j/s1600/Taunton+8+%2528half+scale%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="809" data-original-width="1600" height="322" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhafdViDv6od_npLG5lYeQBaQzKJrPxkwsvyG5hq0TyiGjHBzYJAVz3N87LvAG_PooZe0L1VgPj5K6Jl_kkzNV7Mk-oixn6BHNFUR13M6yMN66_hTLu-_aG_rNsnVgk3wmDx_R_2W_RDg5j/s640/Taunton+8+%2528half+scale%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
The Passage ends here with Dighton Rock, but for completeness, the remainder of the Taunton River is shown below. (Half scale.)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3ub3BkitCJXLonFMWpDOfFRJarIdy9KyvMyUHOT4tbLFRk63TUwUAU89RvRrqabrMP_KPo8quVBi6Kg2ngELc0OX9WZlL6tLdlb1tUnx9Cj4e18kp7YQVcfmI1MM9Up_V2Vsq7RbL_N_v/s1600/Taunton+9+%2528half+scale%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="809" data-original-width="1600" height="322" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3ub3BkitCJXLonFMWpDOfFRJarIdy9KyvMyUHOT4tbLFRk63TUwUAU89RvRrqabrMP_KPo8quVBi6Kg2ngELc0OX9WZlL6tLdlb1tUnx9Cj4e18kp7YQVcfmI1MM9Up_V2Vsq7RbL_N_v/s640/Taunton+9+%2528half+scale%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
(Half scale.)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS1pjk-YPhpCe0WorNziJJbRHhU47tF5bykIrdCDpPj5x8eTDpRZ1_81xSM2Osw5DuddT76zi2y6VJQ3jSnalfZWRrVEB2QLOPQWt_vBmdA2ur2m-zijhLl0gN5ZD1hS_0E_QrcpNjp9WB/s1600/Taunton+10+%2528half+scale%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="809" data-original-width="1600" height="322" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS1pjk-YPhpCe0WorNziJJbRHhU47tF5bykIrdCDpPj5x8eTDpRZ1_81xSM2Osw5DuddT76zi2y6VJQ3jSnalfZWRrVEB2QLOPQWt_vBmdA2ur2m-zijhLl0gN5ZD1hS_0E_QrcpNjp9WB/s640/Taunton+10+%2528half+scale%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
(Half scale.)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQyiXqTxhs2wqCdewiWX3YyiPRK5e-mZ5CSeEOFatG6eX-GA8fwp9UYHGMi8i1_RPpFeqIuldCP6-y-O6YutIQ3jenG4aVclAUVt0ShctXTTMcbuxam_7iKvfLj1m0AfYz3CTu0x6FOEHQ/s1600/Taunton+11+%2528half+scale%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="809" data-original-width="1600" height="322" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQyiXqTxhs2wqCdewiWX3YyiPRK5e-mZ5CSeEOFatG6eX-GA8fwp9UYHGMi8i1_RPpFeqIuldCP6-y-O6YutIQ3jenG4aVclAUVt0ShctXTTMcbuxam_7iKvfLj1m0AfYz3CTu0x6FOEHQ/s640/Taunton+11+%2528half+scale%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
Mouth of the Taunton River, city of Fall River. (Half scale.)<br />
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*A hint at the age of this document--which I missed until just now--is the very dated description of pre-Columbian Indian life: "The tangled growth of great forests," and "Wampanoags lived in peace and harmony with nature." (In fact, the Wampanoag cleared land for agriculture and burned forest to encourage the deer herd; harmony consisted mainly in having a low enough population density to avoid too much environmental damage.) Age makes the description of the Passage less trustworthy.<br />
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Jeffrey Michals-Brownhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875231268940338643noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454505000240746883.post-77319966030710052192017-06-25T23:34:00.000-04:002017-06-25T23:34:03.901-04:00A portable diy kayak dolly brings Adventure a step closer<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Not long ago I came across a reference to the "Wampanoag Canoe Passage"--a historical watery highway that wound seventy miles across eastern Massachusetts from the Cape Cod Bay town of Scituate to Narragansett Bay--by way mainly of the North River and its tributaries and the Taunton River. The route has been researched and <a href="http://www.tauntonriver.org/Taunton%20Wild%20and%20Scenic/histdocs/Wampanoag%20Canoe%20Passage.pdf">reestablished in modern times</a>. Of course, a canoeist must <i>portage</i> not only from stream to stream but also around obstacles and shallows--carrying canoe and gear varying distances. Portaging is not my idea of fun. To do this trip in my big kayak, <i>Serendipity</i>, I would need a way to move her easily--perhaps on a folding dolly. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">It was a bit fussy cutting the base to fit. I designed as I went along, solving problems as they arose. But now my big cruising kayak has become a portable "canoe" for inland river adventure.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">My dolly packed neatly into the kayak amongst tent, sleeping bag, cooking gear, etc: this is what Adventure looks like.</span><br />
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<iframe width="320" height="266" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/OsA9bYCGMhc/0.jpg" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/OsA9bYCGMhc?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div>
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Overview</div>
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<iframe width="320" height="266" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/mavH1E9UX5I/0.jpg" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/mavH1E9UX5I?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div>
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Unfolding the dolly for use</div>
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Construction details: base and longitudinals of 5/4" pressure-treated lumber, sides of about 5/4 square pine turning on #10 machine screws and fixed in place by more of the same, axle is 1/2-inch threaded steel rod held to base by pieces of steel angle. 7" lawnmower wheels are maybe too small for rough ground and brush, but larger were much heavier and more expensive, and would take up more room in the boat. (If size were no object, small bicycle wheels would ride over branches, etc., much better.)<br />
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Jeffrey Michals-Brownhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875231268940338643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454505000240746883.post-51493135567194953692017-04-28T19:56:00.001-04:002018-03-24T21:28:42.645-04:00April Surprise to Prudence Island<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">I hadn't been sailing in almost two years--a far cry from my regular adventures of a few years ago. The itch had been growing, so I decided upon a trip during the April school vacation. My fifteen-foot, full-cabin <a href="http://michalsbrown.blogspot.com/p/core-sound-20-beatrice-ann.html">Jewelbox Jr, </a></span><i><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://michalsbrown.blogspot.com/p/core-sound-20-beatrice-ann.html">Surprise</a></span></i><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">, would keep me comfortable in the cool weather, since she is sailed from inside the (relatively) roomy cabin. It would also enable me to carry my bicycle: five-mile-long Prudence Island--a whale-shaped island in the middle of Narragansett Bay--I had found a little too big for comfortable walking. This would be a welcome trip for <i>Surprise</i>, as well--she had spent three years quietly rotting in the backyard under various inadequate tarps--in fact since <a href="http://michalsbrown.blogspot.com/2014/04/fall-river-to-prudence-island.html">the last time I'd made this very trip</a>. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The first order of business was to make <i>Surprise </i>seaworthy. This trip would be entirely in protected waters, so I hoped that wasn't asking too much. A rotten wale was cut out, and the aft deck reinforce with inside bracing. Decks and roof were scraped and painted just in time to cure for the trip. I ran out of time and had to leave with a sail in need of patching. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The trip would take me from Fall River, MA down Mount Hope Bay, under the Mt. Hope Bridge, across the entrance to Bristol Harbor and finally to Potter Cove on Prudence Island, RI--a modest ten nautical miles altogether.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The trailer was the next obstacle. When I built </span><i><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Surprise </span></i><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">I bought a Harbor Freight utility trailer to carry her with. Right after I finished recent boat work, I discovered that--true to her low cost--the trailer had rusted into brown crud leaving only a pair of wheels on either side of a half-inch plywood bed. With the Fall River launch ramp twenty-five miles away, I wasn't willing to blow more money on another Harbor Freight trailer. Craigslist had nothing appropriate close by, even at twice the price. I was nearly in despair. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">But U-Haul came to the rescue, sort of. Renting a trailer was a reasonable expense for my rare sailing trips. But none of the trailers were simple flat bed affairs that I could load the boat onto with both ends overhanging. I had to rent a massive, two-axle 6X12 foot trailer and even then leave the tailgate open to accommodate </span><i><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Surprise's </span></i><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">fifteen feet. The trailer was so wide I could get it down my narrow driveway only by running one pair of tires atop a curb. (Leaving the driveway to return the trailer at the end of the voyage, I accidentally allowed both pairs of wheels to slip down, wedging the trailer so effectively that the car's wheels spun and skidded trying to move it.)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The only problem with a rented trailer--and it's a big one--is the time it requires. I picked up the trailer from UHaul on the summer-ish Monday morning at 8:30, got the boat loaded onto it with the help of my son, loaded the boat<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> (cool weather gear for an expected temperature drop),</span> got it down to Fall River and left it on a dock, and returned the trailer to UHaul at 4pm. I was finally able to go aboard just before six pm. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">I went aboard then...and waited. NOAA's marine forecast had five to ten knots out of the south with gusts to twenty, but the wind was blowing a steady fifteen from the northwest. Much better direction, but too much wind for me, and maybe too much for my torn sail and weakened boat. I determined to anchor a little way off the ramp and spend the night, sailing in the morning. Because the wind was on the ramp, I couldn't drift off the dock but had to rig and actually sail off close-hauled--even though I only wanted to go a few dozen yards.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Shortly before six pm with the wind easing, I shoved off. Sliding sideways until moving fast enough for the leeboard to bite, I missed the adjacent seawall by only inches. But I was so tickled to be under way after so long, that I didn't drop the anchor I had ready. On impulse I determined to sail on, with evening coming on and without any clear plan. Consulting the chart showed that there was no protected anchorage until reaching Hog Island after sailing the six-mile length of Mt. Hope Bay. With the wind continuing to decline and sunset an hour away, I could not reach the anchorage without a fair bit of night sailing, but so be it. At least I had anchored at Hog Island several times before. And I did have a nine-volt charging system for my phone and camera that I could use to power the navigation lights.</span><br />
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The plan.</div>
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Day fades.</div>
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You can't make these colors up.</div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Except when I hooked up the lights, they didn't work. Unable even find my flashlight in the dark cabin, I had to trust to the fact that few boats were in the water this early in the year, and even fewer were dumb enough to be out at night. (Hopefully none so dumb as to be out at night </span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>unlit</i></span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">.) </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Passing under Mt. Hope Bridge and by Hog Island light, I paralleled the south shore of the island, judging the distance to trees silhouetted against the night sky. But the shore simultaneously curved and the water shallowed, and the leeboard hit bottom as I approached my turn into the lee of the island. I accomplished the rest of that trip splashing through the water in galoshes, pulling the boat by her painter, and finally dropped anchor just a few yards from shore in shallow water. I had done nearly the entire sail on one tack, but the failing wind meant I only dropped anchor about ten pm. Too tired to light the stove, I had a snack and a little wine and turned in.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">--only to wake up a few hours later with gravel crunching under the bottom. The wind had shifted from nw to ne (not predicted by NOAA) and put me on the beach. Back into galoshes to move the boat once more, and finally to bed for good at 1:30am. Slept very little after: the leeboard rattles when it is not locked down, and I'd forgotten how much this boat pounds in even the slightest sea.</span><br />
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Hog Island anchorage. (I goofed--start at 52 seconds in.)</div>
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On Hog Island.</div>
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Black-backed gulls on Hog Island headed for safety as I approached.</div>
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Osprey platform on Hog Island.</div>
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Surprise riding to a batwing gunter mizzen and a shore anchor on Hog I.</div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">After a late breakfast of oatmeal and strong coffee in the growing wind and cold, I went ashore on Hog Island for a bit, then made the last part of the trip and dropped anchor near the nw shore of Potter Cove--hoping that the wind wouldn't push the boat ashore again. (My plan was to anchor close in with a separate line ashore, so that I could pull the boat in to go back and forth--avoiding the need for a tender.) By about 11am I was ashore with the bike and my backpack.</span> <br />
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Sailing from Hog Island to Prudence.</div>
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House porn. I especially enjoy the decks and porches.</div>
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West shore.</div>
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More house porn.</div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/smt1NliHtu8/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/smt1NliHtu8?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
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Broad Street crosses the island.</div>
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More houses of interest.</div>
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On the trail.</div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">I rode the rock-strewn unpaved roads of the island most of the day, fascinated as always with how homes--large and small, palatial and modest--are designed to take advantage of their location. I took many photos of "house porn." I also spent a little time at the Narragansett Bay National Estuarine Research Reserve station near the south end of the island: the NBNERR holds a large fraction of the 85% of Prudence Island that is protected land, and is a site of long-term ecological research. My mother phoned that evening--knowing I was planning this trip--to tell me of a news article she had read about funding being cut for the NBNERR, which is one of a handful of such organizations that carry out long-term ecological research. I assume this was a Trump budget cut. I ended the day walking nature trails around a historical farm site in the middle of the island. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Bicycling back to the cove in the early evening, I found the boat high-and-dry with the tide coming in. This didn't worry me: a drying berth is a quiet berth--at least until the tide returns. But as the water rose after dinner, the wind was also shifting to blow the boat up the beach. Nothing for it but to pull the galoshes on once more and head up the curving coast until I could anchor safely once more. But as the wind continued to shift, it became clear there would be no accessible windward shore I could hang off from on the hook: I needed to get out into the cove. The wind was up again and I didn't want to rig to sail, so I finally managed to get a dozen or so yards off the beach by a combination of "sailing" the bare hull, wild paddling, and kedging with the big anchor. The job was the more frustrating because I was trying to control a boat with neither leeboard nor rudder fully deployed in the shallow water. I dropped the oversize claw over on a very short scope, and pulled off soaking wet socks at about ten pm. I went to bed wrapped in all my clothing: even out of the wind, it was hard to keep completely warm.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">After another loud night, I awoke to find the boat riding snug in a reasonable depth: the wind had shifted once more, this time for the better. At this point I was due to head home, but Beatrice needed the van (tow vehicle) all day, so I'd decided to stay an extra day. The only wrinkle was that I'd failed to pack the customary extra day's coffee: I do not willingly go without my special morning java. I'd somehow managed not to pack even a few teabags. (I was also out of wine, but sacrifices must be made.) So after a relaxed morning, tucked half into my sleeping bag for warmth, dozing and reading, I went ashore in search of coffee. </span><b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
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A walk to the store.</div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The island has a little general store (and Post Office) by the ferry dock three or four miles away from the cove. I decided to walk there, since the distance was not great and man-handling the bike ashore and over rocks to the road was a pretty major undertaking. For once my scheme for going ashore dryshod worked perfectly, and I swung off down the road at a good walking pace. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The woman who runs the store is getting on in years and doesn't keep usual business hours; I arrived at the store to find it locked and with a sign announcing the re-opening three hours hence. Damn. I was not hanging around all that time, so began the trek back to the boat. The walk was not wasted, though: I took many photos of trees flowering and leafing-out, and walked some unfamiliar roads.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Back at the cove at midafternoon, I found the tide high and the boat inaccessible: somehow the amount of rode I'd left out was not enough to reach the shore at high tide. Unless I wanted to wade in hip-deep water, I'd need to wait for the tide to drop. I took up station on a convenient log out of the wind to wait, nodding off repeatedly, for almost two hours. Then I was able to get aboard by leaping from a hummock without wetting my feet. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">I buttoned up the cabin against the cold wind and, after more reading and dozing and a dinner of stew and bread, I turned in wearing everything I had.</span><br />
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Ramp bow makes this seem something like a WWII "LST."</div>
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Line to shore allows boat to be pulled in to go aboard dryshod--in theory.</div>
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Potter Cove anchorage.</div>
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Potter Cove to Mt. Hope Bridge.<br />
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Mt. Hope Bridge.</div>
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Osprey perched on the 6A daymark by Mt. Hope Bridge.</div>
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Mt. Hope Bay.</div>
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Help arrives!</div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Around midnight, for the first time this trip, the wind and waves died completely away and it became quiet. Given lack of sleep and the exercise I'd gotten, I should have slept very well, but still found sleep difficult. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">I was up at before seven, got under way quickly in the light winds, and ate a breakfast of granola and milk at the tiller. NOAA's predicted moderate tailwind never materialized: the light wind died to bare steerageway by mid-morning, then became a strengthening headwind as the afternoon wore on. The return trip was uneventful if slow as I tacked up Mt. Hope Bay, but it became more exciting as I approached the Braga Bridge. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">A strong current ran beneath the bridge--stronger than I'd ever experienced there. I judge the current to have been running at well over one knot. This might not seem like much of an impediment, but I was sailing close-hauled a tubby little boat, and trying to get under a bridge that baffled the wind in unpredictable ways. In the end, I finally got though after tacking twice directly under the bridge and fending off one of the bridge piers with a paddle. Once under the bridge, I still had to go up-current almost a mile to the ramp: the current was so strong that I could watch myself going downstream against the bank when sailing close-hauled--sometimes losing ground on both tacks. I finally landed on the ramp at about 6pm to find my middle son Trevor waiting to help me; the extra hands and muscle were very welcome.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">As soon as the boat was unloaded and the trailer returned, it was time to get some sleep: we would leave the next morning for Washington, D.C. and the March for Science. More on the <a href="http://michalsbrownwildplace.blogspot.com/2017/04/prudence-island-springtime.html">natural history of the trip can be found here</a>.</span><br />
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Jeffrey Michals-Brownhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875231268940338643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454505000240746883.post-65110569630513409302016-10-29T22:28:00.000-04:002016-10-30T21:03:59.665-04:00Lessons from Cold, Wet Camping<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Some lessons learned from a little Columb<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">us Day weekend</span> <a href="http://michalsbrownwildplace.blogspot.com/2016/10/a-night-out.html">overnight adventure</a> that turned a lot rainier than expected.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">I decided to take my sailing kayak a few miles down the Assonet River to the Taunton and camp overnight by a creek I know--my first time out all year. I thought I'd rough it just a bit, in the interest of being more "outdoors" (and save the fuss of set up), by leaving the tent at home. When I heard it might shower in the night, I added a small tarp to the load. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">My sailing rig was useless in the light headwind, and was in the way on the port coaming, forcing me to paddle only on the starboard side.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The rest is predictable: the rain began falling in early evening and didn't stop for the next eighteen hours. The tarp kept my sleeping bag dry--as long as I didn't move, since the tarp barely covered my sleeping area. One reason I had been comfortable leaving the (screened) tent behind was that I expected few mosquitoes since it had been such a dry year. (I had a piece of net that would serve should I be wrong.) What I hadn't counted on was the quantity of insect life attracted to my light as I tried to read in the night. In the end, I went to sleep much earlier as a result. The drumming rain and need to keep the sleeping bag from pooching out from under cover made the night Very Long. The lack of any discernible sunrise made it even longer. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">I finally sprang into my clothes in the drizzle and set about getting hot breakfast and coffee--but found both my butane lighters refused to light. When I managed to get fitful flames out of them hours later, the pressurized white gas stove wouldn't light. (The stove, at least, had been under my overturned saucepan, but it had fallen off in the night.) Only in late morni<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">ng did I get the thing going.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">After hot coffee and oatmeal, I packed up and loaded the boat, only changing into dry clothes just before leaving. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">I paddled against an increasing headwind, but finally got to unfurl the sail for perhaps a mile's welcome run right at the end. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Despite my change of clothes, I was wet and shivering when I landed, and the shivering was bad enough to slow the loading. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">What did I learn, or relearn?</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">First, having all my clothing and bedding, etc in dry bags was smart. My main worry had been spray or capsizing, but it was smart either way. Everything was dry as dry could be. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Second, tents make life more comfortable on long fall nights--even in the
absence of rain. I could have left off the fly to see the stars (had
there been any), and still read by my headlamp without large insects
buzzing in my face. To be sure, the area where I put up my tarp was too
small to have accommodated a tent, and I arrived too late to be willing
to bushwack through the briars to find a better. But I <i>probably </i>could
have gotten away with pitching it on the high salt marsh, since tides
were at neap. And I had to dress in the rain--my little tarp was not high enough to sit or stand
under until I moved it too a new location in the morning. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Third, although fiberfill sleeping bags are heavier and bulkier than down, they remain warm (if clammy) even when wet--as it was in places--while down becomes a thin, lumpy mess. (I would have brought a light fleece bag if it had been warmer; that would have been a disaster.) When I buy a new one, it will have a nylon lining rather than flannel: the cold initial feel of nylon is more than compensated by the ease in getting in and out, and by nylon's not absorbing water. The big bag took up a lot of space in the big dry bag, but it was well worth it.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Fourth, lighters and stove must be well-covered overnight. Bring kitchen matches for backup just in case. A solid fuel stove (I keep one on the big boat for emergencies) is compact and wouldn't be a bad backup. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Fifth, <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">a</span> headlamp <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">is</span> the most useful light I have ever owned. Put that thing on your head in low light and you can forget about it: <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">anywhere you look</span>, you can see--it's that simple. (Keep that thing dry, dry, dry!) It was so dim in the morning that I continued using it. By contrast, a lantern is perhaps the least useful form of light for anything but stationary area lighting or to mark your location (say, an anchorage) for others: having light shining in your eyes is simply stupid: it <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">partly cancels itself out</span> by ruining your night vision<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Sixth, my old Tilley hat, inherited from my uncle, was a very smart impulse-grab on the way out the door. This canvas hat stiffens when wet and keeps rain off my glasses, out of my open jacket, and off my vulnerable headlamp. Always, always have a hat good against sun and rain. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Seventh: I <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">always carry <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">my cell phone on trips--<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">even miles of<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">f the coast I have good cell reception, probably <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">partly because</span> there i<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">s nothing blocking signals. I al<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">ways b<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">uy a gasket<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">ted water-tight box for carr<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">ying it--and then test to make sure it is tru<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">ly water-proof. <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">(<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">It's important to real<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">ize that salt water dest<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">roys electronics in very short order.) </span></span></span></span>How<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">ever <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Teacher Appreciation Day recently brought tea<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">chers at my school <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">little zip-lock + velcr<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">o soft phone </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span>cases. Lo and behold it <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">really is waterproof--and I can operate the phone (with some difficulty) without opening the case. This <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">would be</span> especially welcome if I ha<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">d</span> to <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">call for help when <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">act<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">ually in the water! This is a V<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">ery Good Thing. (Amazing to think of the sailing and camping I did in my youth--with no possibility of commu<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">nicati<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">on. My, the difference </span></span></span></span></span></span></span>forty <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">years makes!)</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Eighth: I was well-equipped with warm clothes, but chose poorly when I changed into them in the morning. I had a old, nylon jacket that is now barely water-resistant. I put this on over a fleece jacket. I love fleece, but it soaks up water like a sponge, and it was wet through by wind-driven rain before I got back to the boat ramp. Meanwhile, my favorite wool sweater was sitting at the bottom of the dry bag. Wool doesn't absorb much water, and is the far better insulator when wet. I was also in shorts, mainly because I needed to be able to wade almost knee-deep to get in and out of the kayak. (Due to an unfortunate deep-mud landing in the marsh, I was a good deal deeper than knee-deep at one point.) But trousers loose enough to be pulled up would often be useful, and lots warmer. I have an inexpensive rain shell on order, as well as water-resistant, lined trousers. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Paddling hard against a headwind both going and returning left my hand blistered. Next time, bandaids will protect my fingers in warm weather, or my neoprene gloves in cool. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<i><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The short and sweet--</span></i><br />
<i><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">1. Keep clothing and anything vulnerable in dry bags. Rain, spray or capsize can ruin a trip and even endanger life. </span></i><br />
<i><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">2. Bring a decent tent, no matter the weather expected. Especially when nights are long.</span></i><br />
<i><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">3. A fiberfill sleeping bag is heavy and bulky, but can keep you pretty warm even if it gets wet. </span></i><br />
<i><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">4. Keep your stove, lighters and matches dry, and consider a backup plan.</span></i><br />
<i><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">5. A headlamp is a must, especially for late arrivals <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">and</span> long nights. Protect it!</span></i><br />
<i><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">6. Always have a hat. In warm weather I carry a <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">well</span>-ventilated hat against sun, but a rain hat is also important.</span></i><br />
<i><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">7. C<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">arry your <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">pho<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">ne in a waterproof case. If there is any<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> danger (of capsize, say), make sure it i<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">s attached to you. <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">My hard phone case clips on to my life jac<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">ket if <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">things get dic<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">ey.<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> My soft case has a neck lanyard.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></i><br />
<i><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">8. Have several changes of clothes, keep them dry, and make sure some will function well even wet. Hands need to be kept warm to function<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">!</span> </span></i><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Right now <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>Serendipity</i> is getting fresh coats of paint<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">, and the tent a little maint<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">enance. Next up? maybe a<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> late fall kayaking trip<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">, or maybe a winter float down t<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">he Taunton in my handy little pram, <i>Bebe</i>.</span></span> </span></span></span></span></span><i><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> </span></i></div>
Jeffrey Michals-Brownhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875231268940338643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454505000240746883.post-13056529319743815302015-09-01T23:52:00.002-04:002015-09-03T20:40:35.345-04:00Fairhaven to Martha's Vineyard<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6owj1MYDA2dBKPcFZCza_Vh6_FngKIMXKqy5KcxC0MKztSd7NnG5yI47eE1Gs-1tKgrY5G6ZlgLh4ty-BXX9cqC79FD-dIv3oYzh_WCmNJkmh8_uB56WwPQ5jEjOSMz5h17lBQ5CfPg3A/s1600/Sconticut+to+Vineyard.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="322" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6owj1MYDA2dBKPcFZCza_Vh6_FngKIMXKqy5KcxC0MKztSd7NnG5yI47eE1Gs-1tKgrY5G6ZlgLh4ty-BXX9cqC79FD-dIv3oYzh_WCmNJkmh8_uB56WwPQ5jEjOSMz5h17lBQ5CfPg3A/s640/Sconticut+to+Vineyard.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt;">My
only sailing trip this season was occasioned by a family friend with a teenage
son.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Eric is a small-boat racing
sailor, but wanted to see the more relaxed, recreational side of sailing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> I, for my part, do not usually “go
sailing,” but sail to places—usually over a period of days.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He wanted a day trip to an island; his
mother Rebecca had inherited a share in a cottage on Martha’s Vineyard where they would
be spending a traditional August week anyway: why not sail to Martha’s Vineyard with Jeff?</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt;">This
plan was congenial to me: I had sailed to the Vineyard several times over the
years, but hadn’t been there lately; it was a trip that fit nicely into a day;
and it provided a nice challenge in passing through the Elizabeth Islands at
Woods Hole.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> I would have the pleasure of introducing Eric to some new skills. </span></span></span></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
Terns--I think--in a feeding frenzy.</div>
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First Mate. </div>
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West Island is a nice little destination</div>
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in itself; mostly wild salt marsh and meadow. </div>
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Eric reads his delightful book while lying on his side, ear full of antibiotic. </div>
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Is this a waterspout? What else could explain a persistent, coherent fog bank</div>
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in the middle of Buzzards Bay on a bright, sunny day?</div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
A gaff rig is rare these days, but we saw several that day.</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
(Instead of a simple, triangular sail, the gaff sail is four-sided, with</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
the top cornerheld up at an angle away from the mast by a stick called the gaff.)</div>
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Eric plots us a course through Woods Hole, then takes his trick at the helm.</div>
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The tilt of this buoy and the wake it leaves in the water show the force of the current.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WVAP-LrSM1Y/VeBQO9v9FzI/AAAAAAAAPEs/oHota30w5xI/s1600/P8254909.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WVAP-LrSM1Y/VeBQO9v9FzI/AAAAAAAAPEs/oHota30w5xI/s640/P8254909.JPG" width="640" /> </a>A beautiful gaff-rigged schooner in Vineyard Sound--under power, alas. (You can see gaffs</div>
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holding out the heads of the fore- and mainsails.)</div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt;">We got
underway from the ramp on Sconticut Neck, Fairhaven at noon without much more embarassment than usual, and made modest
progress down Buzzards Bay in the light southwesterly breeze.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We sailed close-hauled but never had to tack
to make Woods Hole.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Eric quickly caught
on to the ways of an unfamiliar boat and rig. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>–Only his uncompleted summer reading and the need to treat himself for an ear infection kept him
from sailing more. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">(He was unimpressed by the book he had to read, deciding it was almost as good as the ear infection.) </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">Our only excitement in Buzzards Bay was a sort of cohesive fog bank; but it was a bright, sunny day. Some kind of waterspout, perhaps? I'd never seen anything like it. It persisted for at least ten minutes after I first noticed it, but dissapated before we could get close. </span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We negotiated the rock- and reef-strewn passage of Woods Hole at just around the 3pm "max flood." Eric was suitably impressed by the Hole's currents
and standing waves: “we’re going sideways!” he noted at one point as he
struggled to keep us in the channel.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt;">The current
in Vineyard Sound helped us on our way almost <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">too</i> much: approaching the mouth of Vineyard Haven at 4pm the wind
died, and the current threatened to sweep us past the harbor altogether and
even send us out into Nantucket Sound.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
carry no engine, and only a little furious paddling got us out of the strongest
part of the current.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With the return of
a light breeze, we fought an ebb tide up the harbor, trying to avoid both the
current of the Sound and the ebb as we tacked gradually in.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We dropped anchor at 5:30 in one of the southern
New England anchorages most hospitable to small boat sailors: a little bight at
the west end of the harbor breakwater, within a few minutes’ paddle of shore,
and a few minutes’ walk of downtown Tisbury.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt;">The
only tender I have that could manage two people is a little inflatable kayak,
and after making all snug and inflating the boat, we went ashore to await Eric’s
mother, who would carry us—duffel, deflated kayak and all—back to the cottage
at The Farm.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt;">After
showers and a pasta dinner, I read for awhile, listening to Eric accompany his
singing on guitar but not wanting to comment and make him self-conscious.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I climbed into the luxury of clean sheets in
a real bed with standing headroom just before midnight, and watched flashes of
lightning so distant as to be totally dissociated from the near-continuous
grumble of the thunder.</span></span></div>
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The cottage is a comfortable house full of decades of family history.</div>
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View of the Sound from the back yard.</div>
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The path to the beach.</div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt;">Getting
up just after eight, I discovered a house still in slumber.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Not wanting to disturb anyone, I padded about
taking photos inside the house.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
house is full of history; walls and shelves are lined with pictures and objects
old and new, from the pretty model of a schooner by the mantel—so nicely rigged
that an error I found was likely my error—to the beach stones, shells and other
keepsakes that stood on the tiered bricks of the lower chimney.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I took photos not of particular objects, but
of whole walls.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt;">Then I
went outside to the meadow (mowed every few years to keep a view of the Sound)
and down the path, among black oaks, holly, sweet pepper bush and cinnamon ferns,
over a little stream on a wooden bridge, to the beach.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt;">It is
not a beach to lie on, though there were a trio of beach chairs nearby, but a
rocky one to stroll and explore and build little towers of rounded stones
on.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The dock I had thought to tie up to
was actually a high swimming dock, and in fact the situation was too exposed
for anchoring safely or comfortably, and too rocky to land a tender on.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt;">By
about ten I was back up to the cottage and ready for a little something.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“You’re a coffee drinker.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Rebecca said, displaying a collection of
related technology.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I eschewed the big
high-class drip machine in favor of an elegant glass French press.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In less than ten minutes I had poured my
first cup, and sat down for coffee, cold cereal and lots of conversation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt;">Early
in the afternoon, Rebecca took us out for nice sandwiches, and then we walked a
bit in search of flip-flops and sunglasses for Eric.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then it was back to the cottage to finish
packing, and then wander the beach one more time with Rebecca, looking for just
the right smooth stones as keepsakes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
Eric and Rebecca help me check up on my little boat;</div>
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<i>Beatrice Ann</i> is riding nicely, but a little low. Rainwater?</div>
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By late afternoon, the wind has risen and the sea is up, and I'm happy to be in a protected anchorage.</div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt;">Rebecca delivered me back to Owens Park Way at about 6:30pm—in plenty of time, I decided, to
give in to the lure of A Bunch of Grapes Bookstore.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>An author was about to read from her new
novel, Step Dog (which she did with an Irish accent because, well, the book
should be read that way), while I quietly examined the Nature section (I
already owned most of the best of those), the Staff Picks, and the Newly in
Paperback.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was tempted by <u>Ten
Million Aliens: A Journey Through the Entire Animal Kingdom</u>, but hadn’t the
money.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I finally settled on an old book
that promised laughs: Farley Mowat’s <u>The Boat Who Wouldn’t Float</u>.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt;">Ice
cream, I decided, would hit the spot, and be just reward for my careful
spending.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The sign across the street,
“Today’s Flavor: Peach Ice Cream,” decided me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>In a few minutes I sat beside my stuff on the dock and unrolled the
deflated kayak while a dish of peach ice cream slowly approached that soft,
slightly melty state that is perfection.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>(The sight of the kayak inspired a parent inquiry: “I’m thinking of
getting kayaks for the kids…”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Get cheap
ones, I said gruffly.)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The kayak
inflated pretty quickly, and, ice cream dispatched, I towed my stuff around the
beach, passing the family of a few minutes before, and then paddled the short distance
to <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Beatrice Ann</i> in the gathering
dark.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt;">As I’d
suspected, I had a good deal of bailing to do when I got there: the
thunderstorm of the night before came with heavy rain.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But bucket and pump made short work if it, and left the cockpit clean. (There was also a quart or so of water in the cabin, thanks to my half-assed roof addition.)</span></span></div>
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The cockpit is bailed. The moon is out.</div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 16pt;">The
ice cream set me up right, so I was not in the mood to heat up stew.</span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="font-size: 16pt;">--also, I’d forgotten to mooch the rolls that
would have gone so well with it.</span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="font-size: 16pt;">The
only important evening business, then, was finding the sweet spot in the Vineyard Sound
and Woods Hole currents that would allow me to get safely back into Buzzards
Bay with the forecast winds. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 16pt;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 16pt;">Vineyard Sound would oppose my course in flood until 10:28, while Woods Hole would already be in ebb (going my way) and reaching a "max ebb" of 3kt at 11:07. Wind would be out of the northwest at 5-19kt, becoming west in the afternoon.</span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><span style="font-size: 16pt;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: 16pt;">I would
depart, I decided, at about nine a.m., breasting the Sound current as it weakened, and hoping to</span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> have enough wind to negotiate the favorable, if chaotic, current of Woods Hole.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="font-size: 16pt;">Then, after a little freshening up, I made up my bed, read my new book
awhile, and settled down to sleep.</span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt;">Only I
didn’t sleep that night—no more than a few hours total.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Although the water was nearly flat calm, the
slightest boat wake would send the mizzen mast into a rhythmic squeaking that
made sleep impossible.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Finally, the
wakes ended, but by then it was too difficult to drift off.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(Ironically, I had completely forgotten the
little wooden wedges left from an earlier experience that would have
effectively silenced that mast.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I lay
awake needlessly, since the wedges were within my reach.)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt;">It was
nearly eight o’clock when I gave up lying there.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Morning routines took over: dress, ready the
breakfast things, fire up the stove, and brush my teeth while the water came to
a boil.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Breakfast dishes clean and halfway
through my massive cup of wonderful coffee, I got the anchor off the bottom at
nine-twenty and headed out of Vineyard Haven.</span></span></div>
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Gaff-rigged catboat.</div>
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Everything but the kitchen sink. (Oh--he surely has one of those, too.)</div>
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Fast ferry. It is a catamaran, so leaves very little wake, even up close.</div>
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Tug pulling a barge in the Sound.</div>
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<br /></div>
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The ferry entering Woods Hole looks as though it will drive right onto the beach.<br />
(Really the helmsman is following the zig-zag channel.)</div>
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Great Harbor, Woods Hole: home of the famous Marine Biological Laboratory</div>
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and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution.</div>
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There is very little wind; all this commotion in Woods Hole is caused by current.</div>
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Stern trawler in Buzzards Bay.</div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt;">I
hugged the west side of the harbor on departure--even at the cost of some wind
shadow--having had several bad experiences with the currents near the mouth.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(Twice I’ve been nearly abandoned by a breeze
and actually sailed backwards in the current!) <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But the current in the Sound turned obediently
my way before I had gone far, and I turned my attention to the challenge of
hitting Woods Hole near the eastern edge of the channel, knowing that its
strong current would try to yank me westward, and wanting all the room I could
get.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I entered close-hauled on the starboard tack, expecting I’d have to tack
a few times in the Strait.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There were
some dicey moments as I fought for control uncomfortably close to rocks and
reef, but in the end I accomplished the whole passage on a single tack: instead
of needing to turn to follow the Strait, I simply kept the bow pointed
northeast and let the current sluice me sideways through the Hole.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The most dangerous factor was the light
winds: in the grip of the current, I barely had steerageway at times.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt;">An unexpected wind shift into the south-southwest meant I could cross Buzzards Bay to Sconticut Neck on a single tack.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A strengthening, gusty wind had me spilling
air to keep the boat on her feet, and I wished Eric back on board; he would
have enjoyed hiking out, creaming along at six knots plus on a close reach.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt;">After leaving West Island to windward, I found Nasketucket Bay to be a different world
returning than it had been leaving.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Outward bound, I somehow managed not to notice the series of huge rocks
that narrowed the way from the east, and the reefs that crowded from
the west.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The tide was, if anything, a
bit higher than when we left, so that was no excuse.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the end, neither rocks nor reefs presented
any problems until I found myself tacking back and forth near shore trying to
distinguish the public ramp from the private facilities that jostle it for
space.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt;">Finding
the ramp at last, I waited for a motor boater to haul out, and then made an
almost-credible docking at 2:30pm, with the help of a kind stranger.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Beatrice Ann was out of the water by a little
after 3pm, and home soon after 5.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">This trip had the best of several worlds: good sailing, a lovely destination, a soft bed, and congenial company. I hope to do it again next year! </span></span></span></div>
</div>
Jeffrey Michals-Brownhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875231268940338643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454505000240746883.post-37633900305314521672014-08-08T17:34:00.001-04:002014-08-08T18:13:33.865-04:00Kayak Overnight<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0pvcLFqbxu4W2johR5KvGEor5uSc0pmFFkhZY8aZ-gGoUgS1E1mO7arKLEXPnN9H9e013A7xzcf79VzCwuf2-bkC_Lek8NC3Wb5hFyeNo_aN2GO8jRWtC2gp0p0QN0Vxx0BTITM0T2-iN/s1600/kayak+overnight.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0pvcLFqbxu4W2johR5KvGEor5uSc0pmFFkhZY8aZ-gGoUgS1E1mO7arKLEXPnN9H9e013A7xzcf79VzCwuf2-bkC_Lek8NC3Wb5hFyeNo_aN2GO8jRWtC2gp0p0QN0Vxx0BTITM0T2-iN/s1600/kayak+overnight.jpg" height="504" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small;"> The white line shows my rough track.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt;">I've
never traveled overnight by kayak.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Last
winter I planned an overnight using my two-man kayak, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Serendipity</i>--even going as far as loading gear into the drybag--but
circumstances prevented.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I still wanted
to go kayak camping, and it occurred to me that, with the lighter gear
requirements of summer camping, I might be able to cram enough stuff into my
single-seater, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Musketaquid</i>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Over a few days, I fiddled with gear, making
it fit and still get the balance right.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt;">Yesterday
the opportunity came for a little test run: the rest of the family was out of
town, I had no appointments, and tide and weather looked manageable.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt;">I put the
kayak in the Assonet River in early evening at the top of the flood.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>An evening departure risked not finding a
campsite in daylight, but parts of Assonet Bay turn almost into mudflats at low
tide, and I didn't want to fight current, so I needed to wait until high slack
tide.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I paddled under the highway, across
the Bay and down the short river (the gentlest breeze against my face) to its
confluence with the mighty Taunton, then up a little salt marsh creek as the
sun set; total distance three miles.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt;">There
are few places one can camp ashore, which is one reason I almost always sleep
aboard when sailing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But Google Earth
showed this particular bit of river bank to be uninhabited, with no buildings
close by.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt;">Entering
the creek, I annoy a pair of majestic ospreys.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>In the past, I've seen ospreys only around nest platforms,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>but this pair seemed to have found their own
nest site.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt;">I
worried that there might be no accessible shore to land on, but a short
distance up the creek a bank appeared right up against the high mash, allowing
me to go ashore as if on a dock.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Climbing through the bullbriar in the twilight, a nice grassy spot appeared. But I moved on when I realized the standing dead tree beside it was poised to fall. I at last found a camp
site that was open, level, and easy to clean up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>By the time I had all the gear at the
campsite it was quite dark, and I put up the tent by the light of my little
headlamp.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>By 9pm I had my stuff
organized, mattress inflated, and had poured myself a glass of cabernet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(Whether sleeping in a boat or camping
ashore, the evening isn't complete without red wine.)</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt;">Checking
my bird book, I confirmed the identity of the ospreys, and also learned that
they are unique among raptors by diving headfirst into the water and catching
fish with their feet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Shortly after, a
great splashing sound from the creek was perhaps a fishing osprey.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt;">My
light fleece bag turned out to be unequal to the nighttime temperatures, and I
was rather cold.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt;">I was
up next morning at 5:10, bolt upright and filled with foreboding: I had left the kayak on
the high marsh beside the creek, and tides were getting more extreme as the
moon neared full.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Would my kayak float
off?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The boat was indeed almost afloat
when I got to it, but still firmly stuck in the grass.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I broke camp, about as quickly as I was able,
only stopping to make coffee: this time I didn't want to fight the current going
back upriver in the middle of the ebb.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt;">Nevertheless,
I made time to explore a bit in daylight, and to paddle the rest of the way up
the creek. Coming back down the creek, I watched the <i>Phragmites </i>freshwater marsh give way to a narrow band of cattails, then <i>Spartina </i>saltmarsh.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt;">I was
out of the creek and on my way a little after 7am, hoping the current wouldn't
be too strong.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the narrow part of the
Assonet River the current was running at about one knot against me--a little
annoying, but not insurmountable.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(I broke
from working against it to try to capture a half-dozen swallow-like birds
playing around a dock, but was too slow with my camera.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They reminded me of chimney swifts, but with
more deeply-forked tails; bank swallows and tree swallows are possibilities.)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Another worry was the current under the
highway, but I slipped through in the shallows without an issue, landing back
at my car before 9am.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 16.0pt;">I was
quite satisfied with the trip.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I may try
to do our regular Boston Harbor Islands camp out by kayak.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was pleasant to have little enough stuff
that it wasn't a major production to pack and carry gear, and make and break
camp.</span></span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GGD6mO6seYc/U-Ttg3elS2I/AAAAAAAAGZM/Vkv74Xz4OnU/s1600/P8070402.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GGD6mO6seYc/U-Ttg3elS2I/AAAAAAAAGZM/Vkv74Xz4OnU/s1600/P8070402.JPG" height="300" width="400" /> </a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Ready to push off. </span></div>
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<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt;"></span><span style="font-size: 16.0pt;"></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-F8pdqYq9BJg/U-Ttk0tXoAI/AAAAAAAAGZU/1wHnjPAEhmk/s1600/P8070403.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-F8pdqYq9BJg/U-Ttk0tXoAI/AAAAAAAAGZU/1wHnjPAEhmk/s1600/P8070403.JPG" height="300" width="400" /> </a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt;"><span style="font-size: small;">Barely a ripple on Assonet River. </span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt;">
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k5Mo2ZG289A/U-Ttq0UwQqI/AAAAAAAAGZc/-wqxgSGh1j0/s1600/P8070404.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k5Mo2ZG289A/U-Ttq0UwQqI/AAAAAAAAGZc/-wqxgSGh1j0/s1600/P8070404.JPG" height="300" width="400" /> </a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"> Beautiful and complex sky over the river.</span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FadsqS2v9Gs/U-TttLF08fI/AAAAAAAAGZk/fZJ9LJ00LKs/s1600/P8070405.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FadsqS2v9Gs/U-TttLF08fI/AAAAAAAAGZk/fZJ9LJ00LKs/s1600/P8070405.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-d20MWeUNpJg/U-TtyGb7cXI/AAAAAAAAGZ0/Tq6AnYoYHvU/s1600/P8070407.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-d20MWeUNpJg/U-TtyGb7cXI/AAAAAAAAGZ0/Tq6AnYoYHvU/s1600/P8070407.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WXFj_4HdaVE/U-Tt0IFQU4I/AAAAAAAAGZ8/-tB9xH5s_pk/s1600/P8070408.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WXFj_4HdaVE/U-Tt0IFQU4I/AAAAAAAAGZ8/-tB9xH5s_pk/s1600/P8070408.JPG" height="300" width="400" /> </a></div>
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</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lLMoy1IiubQ/U-U_fkAt1cI/AAAAAAAAGds/V_3ctp3fyJ4/s1600/P8080455.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lLMoy1IiubQ/U-U_fkAt1cI/AAAAAAAAGds/V_3ctp3fyJ4/s1600/P8080455.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Tall saltmarsh cordgrass, <i>Spartina alterniflora</i>, is in full bloom. </span></div>
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt;"><br />
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-y3bzORLe1kA/U-Tt2Qa0EDI/AAAAAAAAGaE/BzUic96OAZE/s1600/P8070411.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-y3bzORLe1kA/U-Tt2Qa0EDI/AAAAAAAAGaE/BzUic96OAZE/s1600/P8070411.JPG" height="300" width="400" /> </a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt;"><span style="font-size: small;">Taunton River, then zoomed in on the distant Braga Bridge.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-snw7cvTfIZ0/U-Tt3xQeWJI/AAAAAAAAGaM/R18fmCTncWM/s1600/P8070412.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-snw7cvTfIZ0/U-Tt3xQeWJI/AAAAAAAAGaM/R18fmCTncWM/s1600/P8070412.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DSb1KgPj4Rg/U-Tt6IuXiCI/AAAAAAAAGaU/uz5ZBUmLABQ/s1600/P8070414.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DSb1KgPj4Rg/U-Tt6IuXiCI/AAAAAAAAGaU/uz5ZBUmLABQ/s1600/P8070414.JPG" height="300" width="400" /> </a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Approaching salt marsh and creek as sun sets. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">All this stuff came out of a twelve-foot kayak. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt;"><span style="font-size: small;">This dead tree was so rotten I couldn't figure out why it was still standing.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">I camped elsewhere: a dead tree fell very close to me during a blizzard not long ago. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">The tapping and call of downy woodpeckers showed that dead trees were common.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">The marsh at dawn. I was glad I decided not to camp on the marsh itself </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">when I saw how far the tide rose in </span><span style="font-size: small;">the morning. A marsh bird made a whirring call.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"> </span><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-r5AFPwR7phQ/U-TufJ33iZI/AAAAAAAAGa8/M9-CIaSGlqA/s1600/P8080423.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-r5AFPwR7phQ/U-TufJ33iZI/AAAAAAAAGa8/M9-CIaSGlqA/s1600/P8080423.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"> My campsite turned out to be at the foot of </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">two red oaks and a red maple. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">The mouth of the stream from the hilltop above camp.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt;"><span style="font-size: small;">A broad path shows that others have been here, but trees</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt;"><span style="font-size: small;">fallen across the trail argue that it has seen no vehicles recently.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">For me, black birch is one tree that says "wild New England."</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt;"><span style="font-size: small;">Bullbriar, with its wicked thorns, was everywhere, complicating walking</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">in the dark and the search for a campsite. I lost a bit of blood this trip.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt;"><span style="font-size: small;">The area had not one but two kinds of blueberries:</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">a highbush form, and a lowbush.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">This delicate little plant is a relative of Solomon's seal. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt;"><span style="font-size: small;">The short cordgrass of the high marsh, Spartina patens, is just flowering</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">--a little behind its sister species.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Looking upstream and down as boat is loaded. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Farewell to the marsh. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Head of navigation; stream so narrow it's hard to turn around. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Headed back downstream. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Headed back into the Taunton, then for home. </span></div>
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Jeffrey Michals-Brownhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875231268940338643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454505000240746883.post-33074582952323057862014-07-17T10:28:00.002-04:002014-07-17T14:54:36.204-04:00Massachusetts Bay, Day Three<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">I climbed out of my bunk just after 6am while Stephen slept on. This time, the boat had settled pretty high up the beach, having swung with a wind shift in the night. (That solved the mystery of why we grounded so early in the ebb.) The rocks we settled on were bigger than pebbles, big as cobbles, in fact. But I sighed with relief when I realized it could have been much worse: only a couple yards away, and well within reach of our anchor line, were boulders. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">After setting water to boil for coffee, I uncleated the anchor line and shifted the anchor to the middle of the beach, planning to move the boat as soon as she floated. Then I went ashore and got a brochure and map, and studied the trails and sights as the coffee brewed. Meanwhile, a dink arrived on the beach with a sailor and his dog, and my greeting brought Stephen's head out of the companion. We ate the last of the croissants, with coffee and orange juice, and watched the dog and his owner play as we waited for the flood tide to lift us. This would be a relaxing and leisurely exploring day, since we were only 8 nautical miles from our final destination and could not complete it until late in the afternoon when the flood tide was well underway.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">At length the boat floated. I maneuvered her into safer water, but discovered that no reasonable scope of anchor line would keep her off the beach for a long while, so Stephen gave the boat a good push from shallows, while I knelt on the foredeck to drop the anchor farther out. The kayak brought me back, and we put it high on the beach as insurance before we headed off to explore.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Great Misery has had a varied history, named by a sailor centuries ago who wrecked there and was stranded for days, variously owned and farmed and used with no great success in the centuries after, more recently turned into resorts twice, again both failures, until the Trustees of Reservations bought it prior to the second World War. Despite all the human influences, the island is still quite pretty, if you're not expecting wilderness. In fact, I find ruins interesting, stimulating our imaginations as we try to mentally reconstruct buildings from the remaining foundations. Compared to the Boston Harbor Islands we have camped on, the trails here are genuinely captivating, with high bluffs giving good views in many directions.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Over several hours we walked nearly every trail on the island, only returning a couple of times to see the boat riding safely in deep water. At each visit, we saw that more and more boats had moored for a visit, and several people and families were now ashore, joining the dog and his human.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">At last I decided I had seen enough, as we stopped on a hilltop overlooking the cove. I decided I would stay there in the shade until the tide had dropped enough for me to wade out to the boat no more than waist-deep. Stephen declared that it was already so, and set off down to the cove to prove it. Getting aboard when a chance breeze brought the boat close enough, he settled in to wait there.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Perhaps an hour later a tiny landing craft arrived bearing the awaited ranger. The ramp came down, and the ranger wheeled a mower ashore for trail work. (I later learned that Stephen had greeted the ranger from the boat, complimented him on his island, and tried to pay him the ten dollar fee for our visit. That's my boy!) At that point I went down too, and was soon aboard.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">We weighed anchor at noon, and sailed slowly out of the cove on the light wind. Since we had only a short distance to go and time to spare, i opted to leave the mizzenmast in the middle step and sail with that alone. With the wind as light as it was, I came to regret the decision. After a reasonable start, the wind died in the afternoon, and we eventually found ourselves bobbing near the mouth of Gloucester Harbor, with barely enough wind to keep pointed in the right direction. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Impatience sent me to the oars, and for the first time in years we set them in the oarlocks, made me up a makeshift rowing seat, and I set to work moving the ton of boat the hard way in the sun and heat and humidity.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Stephen steered as I worked on getting the angle of the blades just right, and the rhythm, and we found I could maintain 2 1/2 knots if I rested briefly every few minutes. Well into the harbor a little breeze sprang up, and we wasted no time in getting back under sail. Our timing was good, since the flood tide we needed for the Blynman Canal had begun.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">We searched the side of the harbor for the entrance to the canal, and the bridge we would need lifted, and finally discovered it when we happened on the right angle to make it visible. The bridge operator confirmed that the potentially tricky current was now flowing into the canal (good), but that, no, he wouldn't lift the bridge for us. "You'll have to lower your masts, Cap'n." We hove to without a minutes pause, dropped both masts, and paddled into the narrow canal as the bridge lifted twice for larger powerboats. We never did learn why the operator wouldn't lift for us, though the published rules gave no such hint. In the end, with the current in our favor, it was not difficult to paddle the 1/3 mile up the canal to the ramp, and we tied up at 5:30pm. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">We had a lot of time to ready the boat for trailing, since Beatrice was stuck in traffic and didn't arrive for more than an hour.</span> <span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">We were very glad to see her when she did. We would have some stories to tell.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"> <span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">Great Misery at bottom left, cut off; Gloucester Harbor at top left is obscured</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">by the cartoonishly exagerated GPS track.</span></span></div>
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The <i>Beatrice Ann's</i> resting place in the night. </div>
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If the wind had gone a little more easterly, we'd have been on the nearer rocks.</div>
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Breakfast of croissants, cold cereal, juice and coffee.</div>
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She will float in a few minutes.</div>
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The pond, only yards from the cove, is fresh.</div>
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The stone structure was a pump house.</div>
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All but one of the moored boats left in the night.</div>
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Safely afloat.</div>
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Looking east from the east end of the island.</div>
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Little Misery has a nice little beach with some protection,</div>
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and if the tide were low we could wade across.</div>
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Evidentally the same family that importuned us last night.</div>
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Looking down from near the "Casino." The rock formed a "salt water swimming pool" for the resort.<br />
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These sulfur-colored lichens seem to like coastal rock--it's all over Boston Harbor Islands, too.</div>
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Saucer-shaped structures disperse tangles of fungal filaments and algae to reproduce the lichen.</div>
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The "Casino."</div>
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Steps to the "Casino."</div>
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Casino foundations indicate a big common room (dance floor?)</div>
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with a big front deck, in this beautiful hill-top location.</div>
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Not Stonehenge, but the foundations for a water tank.</div>
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Stephen shows each pillar to be about ten feet tall.</div>
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Pamphlet calls this "bleak house," but has no other information.</div>
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At times people attempted farms. </div>
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Water tank foundations in distance.</div>
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"See? It's not too deep to wade!" But I prefer to wait a little.</div>
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In the shade, waiting productively.</div>
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Ranger arrives with mower.</div>
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Misery Island astern.</div>
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Light marking the entrance to Gloucester Harbor.</div>
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Where is the entrance to the Canal?</div>
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Blynman Canal. Bridge operator: the current is favorable, but slow.</div>
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"Can you raise the bridge in a few minutes?" "No, Cap'n. You'll have to lower your masts."</div>
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The ramp. Time to pack up and wait for patient Beatrice.</div>
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Jeffrey Michals-Brownhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875231268940338643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454505000240746883.post-52598609766104576652014-07-15T21:15:00.000-04:002014-07-15T21:15:59.562-04:00Massachusetts Bay, Day Two<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Main furled and mizzen in the middle step, I raised the anchor while Stephen steered us onto a starboard tack that would take us straight out of Scituate Harbor, and onto the second leg of our voyage. Thereafter the compass settled on northwest for Boston. I did not rush securing rode and anchor, wanting Stephen to feel needed at the tiller until he was comfortable. It was 11am, and we agreed that Stephen would take a one-hour watch at the helm, with the option to continue; in fact he sailed an additional twenty minutes until his nervous voice amid rising wind and waves called me from the cabin. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"> In that time, we passed Minot's Light by Cohasset, played congenial hosts to weary dragonflies, and watched the highest buildings on the Boston skyline began to emerge from the haze. Over the next two hours the city gradually gained sharpness and detail, and gained the peninsula of Hull for its foreground. Our target, Boston Light, remained stubbornly blurry, until I realized that the whole structure was enveloped in a hazy framework of scaffolding. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"> </span><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OyEDC4jLlnc/U8GOMLR5ODI/AAAAAAAAGBg/SNHgCaRiWJY/s1600/P7090892.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OyEDC4jLlnc/U8GOMLR5ODI/AAAAAAAAGBg/SNHgCaRiWJY/s1600/P7090892.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Leaving Scituate Harbor.</div>
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Minot's Light</div>
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Stephen, dragonfly friend. </div>
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I, on the other hand, am only a dragonfly acquaintance, giving him the brush-off after awhile.</div>
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Nantasket Beach, and the seaward end of Hull.</div>
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Boston.</div>
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Boston Light, Little Brewster Island, with the other Brewsters in the background.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKJ_hW5TnoRpUYyRnWXtP3-AhZixSMDRjHHxr3GwoSW4r02n7lxmU6thp-WaIX0fkJMVZCUjPlLUkUZrMVuqRbgD2YbKqxhkUA5yQphZyYOA6C9zDMQqI0WxDOdRtWbeeqtHO6QTVxbpPo/s1600/Scituate+to+Manchester+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKJ_hW5TnoRpUYyRnWXtP3-AhZixSMDRjHHxr3GwoSW4r02n7lxmU6thp-WaIX0fkJMVZCUjPlLUkUZrMVuqRbgD2YbKqxhkUA5yQphZyYOA6C9zDMQqI0WxDOdRtWbeeqtHO6QTVxbpPo/s1600/Scituate+to+Manchester+2.jpg" height="640" width="624" /></a></div>
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Hull, the Brewsters, and, west of our track, George's (lower) and Lovell's (upper) Islands</div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Boston Light is on the island of Little Brewster. There is a whole cluster of Brewsters, and I planned to sail between them on our way across the harbor, until I took a better look at the chart. There is little water between most of them, and Great Brewster sends out a long thread of shoal called Great Brewster Bar (visible as the snaky line on the upper left of the image above). Getting around Great Brewster Bar took some tacking, and the bar insinuates itself between Georges Island to the south and Lovell's Island to the north, leaving little sea room. The silver lining to this is that it "connected the dots" between our annual Boston Harbor Islands camping trips and the current adventure: We visited both Georges (home of Fort Warren) and Lovells last summer. It was strange also to see the harbor as if reversed in a mirror: the outer islands, always distant and a little mysterious when camped, were now those nearby, and the inner islands seen in the distance. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"> <span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">The Light, enveloped in scaffolding. The size of Little Brewster is clearer from this angle.</span></span></div>
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Another Brewster (Middle Brewster?)</div>
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Great Brewster Bar is the thin brown line extending from the island.</div>
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At this stage of the tide, you could walk from Great Brewster nearly to George's Island.</div>
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This day mark (tower) shows we have reached the end of the bar, and almost the rocks.</div>
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The Brewsters behind us.</div>
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Fort Warren, on George"s Island, guarded the main entrance to Boston </div>
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from the time of the Civil War until the end of World War I. </div>
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Stephen at the helm, passing (I think) Lovell's Island.</div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">After we had passed Deer Island, home of Boston's wastewater treatment facility, I turned over the tiller to Stephen once more, and went below for a nap. So I missed passing Nahant, and didn't poke my head out until we were nearing Marblehead. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">Deer Island is part of the reason Boston Harbor went </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">from notorious sewer to a body of water good to swim in.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">The combined harbors of Beverly, Salem and Manchester are an obstacle course of islands, reefs, and rocks. My cruising guide warns against trying to enter in fog, but I wouldn't attempt it at night, either. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"> Even if I hadn't been pretty tired, I would have been reluctant to try to beat up into Marblehead Harbor, chock-a-block with moorings for a distance of three-quarters of a mile. As it is, I headed the boat for Great Misery Island without a second's thought. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY0aZ8YilhEPsH1TroYA9embLMQyFdFNlJUpf7J1sF-WfZwzL1cLTdy42jLTrWy_M21rY71wfo1vWLmHkRCqYC_S4c34zUJPsKbU84Gp2ig1xmzu6oCGDY9i19X-zSBfLB65NwqKTFs0dc/s1600/Scituate+to+Manchester+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY0aZ8YilhEPsH1TroYA9embLMQyFdFNlJUpf7J1sF-WfZwzL1cLTdy42jLTrWy_M21rY71wfo1vWLmHkRCqYC_S4c34zUJPsKbU84Gp2ig1xmzu6oCGDY9i19X-zSBfLB65NwqKTFs0dc/s1600/Scituate+to+Manchester+4.jpg" height="640" width="624" /></a></div>
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When I came out of the cabin at 6:15pm, we were very near to shore, but I wasn't sure where.</div>
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Here you can see we were near Swampscott, with Marblehead still a few miles off.</div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Great Misery Island is uninhabited, but welcoming to visitors. A north-facing
cove makes a cozy anchorage for protection from wind and waves. The
island has a long history, but now belongs to the Trustees of
Reservations, an old organization that has conserved a great many
special places in Massachusetts. It would lengthen the day's sail by a couple of miles, but with little tacking, and almost no moorings to dodge.</span><br />
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Keep your wits about you, sailing the waters north of Boston!</div>
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Tinker's Island, one-third of a mile southeast of Marblehead.</div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">We still had rock-studded Beverly and Salem Harbors to negotiate. The rocks are well-marked, I hear; seeing was good though, and I mainly navigated by looking for the disturbed water that tells of submerged rocks. (Don't try this, though, with a fixed keel boat.) After getting around Children's Island, we scooted between it and little Eagle Island into Salem Sound, thence straight to Great Misery, and around to North Cove. The cove is very small, and since the wind was ahead of us sailing in, the few moored boats were challenging obstacles. Fortunately, few people were on deck to see us ghosting a few yards off their sterns on the fluky, shifting winds the island sent our way.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">It would have been safer and more considerate to anchor farther out, since a boat in the cove right up against the shore might be rather in the way, but I was tired, and sailing a shoal-draft boat, dammit, and I was going to take full advantage of the fact. We dropped anchor perhaps fifty feet from shore in eight feet of water in the gathering dusk. I only put out twenty-five feet of anchor line--a bit risky, but my claw anchor holds amazingly well on a short scope. Since it was near high tide, I expected we'd ground some time before dawn, but having grown rather too cavalier about this, I didn't give it much thought. We'd covered about 27 nautical miles in variable winds that day.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Dinner was Beatrice's pulled pork on bread, and we (Okay, I) ate ravenously. (That roast beef sandwich was a Long time ago.) As we ate, a Canada goose and her goslings swam over and looked at us expectantly. Even if I hadn't been so hungry, I am opposed to feeding geese--both because they hang around in large numbers and foul the water when encouraged by feeding to stay, and because I didn't want them to pester us later. The mom and I think dad scolded us for not feeding them, then went away. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><br />After dinner, I settled in with my traditional glass of red wine, but neither of us had the energy even to read, so we soon went to sleep. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">We were awakened before 11:30pm by the sound and feeling of the boat's hull grinding on the rocks and pebbles. A cautious skipper (if he got himself into such a position at all) would instantly have been up and out and protecting his boat from damage. Me, I lay there and listened, guessing that I would need to mix up some epoxy to fill dings after the trip was over. Stephen took his cue from me. The sound seemed to go on a long time, but I finally went back to sleep. </span><br />
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Children's Island, defended by Cormorant Rock. </div>
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I wonder what it's like to live on such a small island?</div>
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Backside of Children's Island.</div>
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Approaching Little Misery (on right) and Great Misery Islands.</div>
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Not very promising names!</div>
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All the little specks you see in the water are rocks and islands.</div>
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The sun set behind Manchester-On-The-Sea.</div>
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Geese with a strong sense of entitlement. Even the goslings are pretty big.</div>
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Jeffrey Michals-Brownhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875231268940338643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454505000240746883.post-90251944505160106642014-07-12T15:45:00.000-04:002014-07-15T21:17:59.174-04:00Massachusetts Bay, Day One<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">I've sailed all over Narragansett Bay, RI and the south coast of Massachusetts, Buzzards Bay and the islands of Block Island, Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket. Two years ago I sailed with my middle son four days around the outside of Cape Cod from New Bedford to Provincetown. (The Cape Cod Canal is not an option for a boat without a decent motor.) Years ago I crossed Cape Cod Bay with my two younger sons from Plymouth to Provincetown and back. In an annual tradition, my youngest son and I sail out of Hingham into Boston Harbor and camp a few days on one of the Boston Harbor Islands.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">I seldom day-sail, but prefer to be out long enough to get somewhere. Trips generally last two or three days, but sometimes run four or five. Though I sometimes sail to familiar places, I always make time for exploration. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Having decided years ago that my explorations should have some sort of system, and that a sensible system would be to cover territory in a connected way, the east coast of the state was calling to me. I would start in Plymouth, connecting to earlier voyages, and sail "down east," first to Scituate then loop in and out of Boston Harbor, on to Marblehead and finally end in Gloucester. Each of these places has a lot of history, and each would make a good place to go ashore. I originally thought to go all the way to Portsmouth, New Hampshire, but to do that in the four or five days contemplated would be more endurance event than fun, and might tempt me to sail in marginal conditions to stay on schedule. Distance would be maximized by going one way, rather than returning to my starting point: the summer winds would be abaft the beam nearly all the way, and I wouldn't have the long slog to-weather that the return would need. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">I post-poned the trip from last week due to high winds. (Seeing big inland trees sway was even more convincing than NOAA forecast). The delay actually brought the tides more favorable, gave more time for relaxed preparation, and got the July Fourth holiday out of the way. We made use of another weather delay last Monday to check the routes to Plymouth and Gloucester ramps. (</span><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">This turned out to be a Very Good Thing,
as the Plymouth ramp was hidden from all but locals, and Google Maps
didn't know about the special entrance to the Gloucester ramp, which my wife would have to navigate with trailer and solo.</span>)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">We got off on Tuesday morning, pushing off at about 11am and leaving Plymouth Harbor early in the ebb for Scituate--a relatively easy day's sail away. The only events of note were a visit from the Harbor Master, who was looking for boaters wanting safety inspections (we passed with flying colors), followed in short order by a put-down by his assistant, who complained of my not being in control of my boat, since I was drifting backwards in the mooring field (hove-to, mind you) as I fixed an unforeseen problem with the main sheet. (Can an ego get whiplash?) I didn't point out that I planned to sail through his mooring field anyway. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">That same harbor master's assistant informed me that there was an SCA (small craft advisory) for today also ("don't go to far!"); I considered anchoring and reefing the sails, but decided against it: I would need windward ability to get into Scituate Harbor, and my sails reef rather sloppily. Reducing sail by moving masts and sailing under mizzen alone would be better, but moving masts is best done on the trailer, or at least anchored in flat water. As it turned out, seas were quite calm and winds never got dangerously strong, though it did take some care with boat handling to keep her on her feet at times. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">We came into Scituate Harbor shortly after 2pm, toured the harbor looking for a likely spot to anchor out of the way (I like the informal, semi-illegal approach to getting ashore) and chose a spot free of both boats and houses to anchor. We dropped anchor in just a few feet of water--wading depth--fully intending to ground and dry out on the falling tide--again, insuring we would not be infringing anyone's boating real estate. We had sailed twenty nautical miles that day, in pretty brisk winds.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">While I got the boat ship-shape and brought the kayak ashore (to make sure we could always get back aboard without swimming), Stephen explored, looking for a road. He didn't find one. Together we went farther afield, rounding the shore into the inner harbor, crossing a salt marsh, wading deep tidal muck, and finally getting onto asphalt next to a marina. We enjoyed the views and houses, walked downtown, wandered about for awhile, and had some ice cream. The Front Street Bookstore was closed, but got my attention with its display of local books. A look across the harbor showed our boat farther from shore than seemed reasonable, and we quickened our pace back.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Going back we decided to try a short cut: we would find the part of the road that came closest to our boat, then strike out across some part of the landscape that would keep us out of people's backyards as much as possible. The place decided upon did, in fact, begin in someone's back yard, but we made ourselves as inconspicuous as possible, strode quickly across a field, then through goldenrods, tall reeds, and finally a patch of trees (much farther than we'd imagined), until we could see our boat nearby--across a tall, healthy stand of poison ivy. A rash on my wrist just healing put the exclamation point on it. I turned to Stephen: "we have to go back," I said, "all the way back." We did, and then decided to bite the bullet and try to beg access to the beach from nearest homeowner. That nearest house, which we'd imagined a mansion, turned out to be part of the Stellwagen Bank Marine Sanctuary headquarters, and was practically deserted. A short walk brought us to the boat. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Getting back to the boat required the kayak--which I'd fortunately brought ashore. I lifted the anchor, paddled the big boat in to the beach, and we anchored again very close to shore, and right behind a big rock that we could use as a reference point to make sure we weren't dragging this time.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">We had an early dinner of fruit--not very hungry. Then we turned in with our books and reading lights, me trying to work out whether we could spare enough time to go ashore again in the morning: we'd spotted things worth investigating. I did the math, and decided we could spare a couple of hours in the early morning. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Aground the next morning, we ate our breakfast and headed into town, just ahead of the tide that would lift the boat and make possible our departure. We walked the Harbor Walk, looked at boats, inquired of the Harbor Master how much they charged for ice--before discovering my wallet was still on the boat; we wished (okay, I wished) the Front Street Bookstore would open an hour early ( I LOVE bookstores!; and wandered back to our beach, unaccountably a little uneasy for our boat.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Approaching the beach, we watched our boat being towed away by a skiff. I ran, waved, yelled, waded toward her, to discover the skiff said "harbormaster," and its crew gave me to understand our boat had been reported aground, and presumed blown off a mooring. I related the facts in my best bullhorn voice. They pointed out that there was no anchoring allowed in the harbor (barbarians, they), but admitted that the anchor laid along should have told them the boat had not come from a mooring. They gave the boat a nice shove, and I recovered it and anchored once more.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">We listened to yet another forecast of SCA, and decided to move the masts at anchor. Then we weighed and left the harbor under mizzen alone at about 10am, bound for Boston Harbor and points north.</span><br />
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Leaving Plymouth, the channel parallels a long barrier beach </div>
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lined with houses only a biscuit-toss from the boat. </div>
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Stephen monitors our speed on the gps. </div>
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Approaching Scituate Harbor.</div>
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Walking the inner harbor.</div>
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A wooden wreck with propeller and rudder still in place.</div>
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Imposing neighbor is really Stellwagen Bank Sanctuary building. </div>
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Note <i>Spartina</i> fully submerged at high tide below.</div>
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View down the coast of Massachusetts Bay.</div>
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Salt marsh a stone's throw from downtown. Egret below. </div>
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1898 house. They know how to relax. </div>
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Sunset.</div>
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Panoramic view of our resting place.</div>
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Breakfast was coffee and orange juice, croissants and strawberries. </div>
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The big rock on the left is proof we didn't drag anchor in the night.</div>
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We leave the boat as she prepares to float.</div>
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Path to Peggoty Beach.</div>
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Sights along the modest Harbor Walk included the inner and outer harbors, downtown </div>
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(harbormaster is low building on the right), a big, handsome ketch for hire, </div>
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and the fishermen's memorial (six names on the reverse, and room for at least as many more).</div>
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Closed, alas! </div>
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Workboat in the inner harbor. </div>
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This "World War" memorial on the bridge was dedicated just a decade before</div>
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events would prove that THE world war was not a one-off. </div>
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Stephen not only remembered where I had stowed my giant coffee mug,</div>
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he also volunteered to retrieve it for me.</div>
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Leaving Scituate Harbor, reefed, with the promise of real wind later. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikIWmyQPeZ3z0EDzhTEH4YRIiUUPH9gHAArLQ8dFPA2uEDeBkTzINkXgOoVqhS2zxfcjoZyNNFxvEJ3xzeSJfm7UjpBfTs081QrM8JN0iUXHOruEHmYyPCP_i9KOA7QyA8_8IjsPCdb1c0/s1600/Plymouth+to+Scituate.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikIWmyQPeZ3z0EDzhTEH4YRIiUUPH9gHAArLQ8dFPA2uEDeBkTzINkXgOoVqhS2zxfcjoZyNNFxvEJ3xzeSJfm7UjpBfTs081QrM8JN0iUXHOruEHmYyPCP_i9KOA7QyA8_8IjsPCdb1c0/s1600/Plymouth+to+Scituate.jpg" height="506" width="640" /></a></div>
Black marks our GPS track from Plymouth to Scituate (little harbor south of Cohasset).</div>
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Jeffrey Michals-Brownhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875231268940338643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454505000240746883.post-78322811259051544162014-04-29T19:21:00.003-04:002014-04-30T10:17:01.533-04:00Fall River to Prudence Island<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">April School vacation is my traditional start to the sailing season. Since finishing my first boat nine years ago, I don't think I've missed a trip in that week. But this April vacation came with impediments: of course, Easter weekend was out; I was long committed to taking my son and his cousin to a Boy Scout event on the Thursday, and doing a little volunteer work at an Audubon sanctuary on the Saturday; the scheduling of a job interview Wednesday morning seemed to close the window on any extended sailing trip. Besides, I was finishing a sailing rig for a two-man kayak, and thought I should be satisfied with that.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Then I broke out: cancelled the Audubon thing, and decided that, weather permitting, I would leave Fall River Friday for Prudence Island, returning Sunday. Prudence is an island of moderate size--considering the islands of Narragansett Bay--and it has good walking, trails, and a village or two with a modest year-round population. Prudence is nearly in our backyard, sailing-wise; I had neglected a nice destination and not been ashore there since April '06. But I traditionally keep expectations modest in the cold of April, making this island all the more appropriate. </span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YGFkdiJ_EJw/U1_5WC1I_rI/AAAAAAAAFew/yaX9X64l2Z4/s1600/Prudence.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YGFkdiJ_EJw/U1_5WC1I_rI/AAAAAAAAFew/yaX9X64l2Z4/s1600/Prudence.jpg" height="506" width="640" /> </a>Surprise sailed from the Taunton River at top right to Potter's Cove at middle left. </div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">The middle of the week was a whirlwind of activity getting <i>Surprise</i>--my cold-and-wet-weather-boat--ready for sea. On a lark, I hurriedly stuck my kayak sail on her tail as a mizzen. Then patched the ugliest of the raw wood with epoxy, patched her leaky roof, haphazardly patched the worst of her mainsail, and saw to her gear.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">The weather looked increasing tricky: the boat is all cabin with no cockpit, so comfortable in the rain, but she is a challenge to sail in much over 10kt of wind. Foul winds 10-15mph with gusts to 20 were on offer for Sunday, and then also on Saturday. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Fall River to Prudence Island is not a challenging trip under normal circumstances: out the mouth of the Taunton River, down Mount Hope Bay and under the Mt. Hope bridge, swinging south around Hog Island (last year's April destination), and across the East Passage to drop anchor in Potter's Cove, Prudence Island. Total distance about nine nautical miles. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">I put the boat in the water late Friday afternoon and hung it off an anchor as I returned the tow-car (my wife's), then delayed departure still further by a bone-headed move that overturned my kayak tender as I was getting in. This meant wet, clothes, wet walking shoes, sloshing rubber boots, and threat of incipient hypothermia if I took too long getting the kayak bailed out, getting aboard Surprise, and shifting into my one change of dry clothes. In the end, I settled into my sleeping bag in the deepening dark, hot stew and toast in hand, hot tea at my elbow, and the weather radio chattering at me--all within a stone's throw of the launch ramp.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">I awoke about 4am Saturday to stillness--little breeze, no waves. Feeling rested, I decided to get underway as quickly as possible. I had the idea I could sneak to Prudence in the early hours and miss the high winds threatened for later in the day.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">I raised the anchor about 5am and headed out the river mouth with a slight breeze on a close reach and with an ebb current beneath us. The wind died almost completely just out of the mouth, turned frustratingly fluky for the next half-hour or so, and then filled in lightly from behind. I drank coffee and munched my cinnamon rolls and watched the light come by slow degrees in the thick overcast.</span><br />
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Near dawn: clouds in the middle look like a net.</div>
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Mount Hope Bridge ahead in the distance marks the end of Mount Hope Bay. </div>
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Behind us, the power plant and, just visible on the right, the Braga Bridge over the Taunton. </div>
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We passed under the Mt. Hope Bridge connecting Bristol to Portsmouth around 8am.</div>
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Light marks a shoal south of Hog Island that is hazardous to bigger ships--but not us. </div>
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Hog Island was the site of last year's April adventure, and adventures of my youth. </div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">As I neared the Mt. Hope bridge at the other end of the bay, it began to rain. I closed up the cabin and enjoyed the sensation--rare in sailboats--of tooling along in the rain in perfect comfort.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">The cove is hard to spot from a distance, so I indulged in turning on the gps long enough to check my latitude against the chart. We sailed neatly into the cove--on the same tack practically all the way--dropping anchor shortly before 9am.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">I had to open the cabin all the way to furl the mainsail, but by moving briskly managed to keep the cabin from getting very wet. With the rain still steady but the promise of a drier afternoon, I chose to take a nap. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Shortly after noon I was awake, and ashore in my still-damp shoes at 1pm, I began walking, my rumpled hat on my head and a good lunch and foul weather gear in a plastic shopping bag. I expect there are no homeless people on Prudence Island, but I looked the part.</span><br />
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I found NBNERR sign at the dock fairly educational. </div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">The island is overwhelmingly protected land, I learned by perusing a dockside display belonging to the Narragansett Bay National Estuarine Research Reserve (NBNERR). The NBNERR appears to be what took over when the RI "Bay Island Park System" contemplated in my youth, but existing mainly on paper, was unable to fulfill its promise. When I was about to graduate from URI with my BS in botany, I longed to be one of the two (yes, 2) rangers for the park, but nothing came of it.</span><br />
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Black cherry is leafing out, just like at home. </div>
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Pine Hill has no discernible pines, only a scattering of juniper. The top is bare of all </div>
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but tufts of beardgrass (<i>Andropogon scoparius</i>) and a lichen called reindeer moss. </div>
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Panoramic view of the western side of the island from the top of Pine Hill.</div>
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Grass (red-top?) dominates most of the open areas that are not already overrun-- </div>
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--with bullbriar. Bullbriar is native, but it is clearly invasive here, </div>
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growing often in stands so dense that only established trees can coexist with it. </div>
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Bullbriar is only one problem; the island also struggles (as many places do) </div>
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with invasive <i>Phragmites </i>reed. </div>
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Salt marsh nearly cuts the island in two in two places; this one is called Jenny Pond.</div>
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Beach plants leafing out include seaside rose, </div>
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beach pea, </div>
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dusty miller, </div>
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some kind of sorrel (<i>Oxalis</i>), </div>
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and two plants I don't recognize. (Any help, here?) </div>
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I would have continued farther on the beach, </div>
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but the inlet to the marsh was too wide to get across dry-shod. </div>
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Other than a detour on the Pine Hill and Seaside trails, I bent my course for downtown on the more populous east side of the island. I spent my camera batteries chiefly on two themes: first, what plants were springing here, second, how have residents designed their houses--modest and palatial, old and new--to suit their island location.<br />
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The second marsh, called Nag Pond, had an osprey platform with a busy pair,<br />
but they were skittish when I was near.</div>
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The egret below flew by while I was watching them.</div>
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Big marsh of Nag Pond--the second that cuts the island.</div>
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Skunk cabbage, I think. What similar broad-leaved herb grow so happily in standing water? </div>
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Houses range from the old and modest to the new and palatial. </div>
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At the north end of town is a homey, place with a great view. </div>
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I'd be very comfortable here! Even hanging out the wash would be a pleasure. </div>
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Many houses feature enormous decks--</div>
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--or gigantic porches.</div>
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Along much of the main road, houses are on the landward side, and people build steps down to the beach across from them. (I'm guessing Narragansett Rd. sees all-new asphalt maybe once in a decade.)</div>
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The home of the Owen family is an entire compound that appears to have been added to over time. </div>
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Bridges connect neighboring houses. The garage once had a driveway, but no longer.</div>
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I'm guessing that the variety of earth-moving and construction equipment</div>
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in the front yard are the key to the money that built this house. </div>
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Some residents enjoy their property more than others.</div>
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Those who don't can always buy a condo--complete with patio and dock.</div>
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Peculiarities of small island life include the PI Volunteer Fire Department,</div>
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the PI Variety (& Post Office), and the PI Homestead Improvement Association and Library</div>
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(not to be confused with the older PI Improvement Assoc.)</div>
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Of the new houses, this is the one I liked: there's something homey about it. </div>
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If I had money, I might build something <i>very </i>modest, like this.</div>
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After walking the length of Narragansett--the main drag and an actual (formerly) paved road--and stopping for coffee and a cookie at the Prudence Island Variety (and Post Office), I found myself at the intersection with Broadway. Broadway is one of the few roads that crosses the island, and has the distinction of hosting Prudence Island School. It was already late afternoon, but I wanted to visit the school and figured I could get back to the boat at twilight without difficulty.<br />
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Broadway is a dirt road that is mostly wooded...</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FGdtcC99Sg8/U1_j01E7hGI/AAAAAAAAFYQ/5KIodkZSf4w/s1600/P4260571.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FGdtcC99Sg8/U1_j01E7hGI/AAAAAAAAFYQ/5KIodkZSf4w/s1600/P4260571.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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with nice trails...</div>
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but also boasts a keeper of bees and blueberries... </div>
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And the island's century-old school...</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PUWv9R-Ibfw/U1_kitDnR-I/AAAAAAAAFZQ/DwjqDk29AXY/s1600/P4260584.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PUWv9R-Ibfw/U1_kitDnR-I/AAAAAAAAFZQ/DwjqDk29AXY/s1600/P4260584.JPG" height="300" width="400" /> </a></div>
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until about six years ago part of the Portsmouth School District (closed when it was down to two students), but now I think some sort of home school. </div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">High-tailing it back to Potter Cove and my waiting dinner and bed, I made fewer stops for pictures and arrived back at the dock soon after sunset. In my planning, though, I didn't allow for Adventure. Where I had left the kayak on the beach was now under water. I had badly miscalculated the tidal range--an expensive mistake in more ways than one.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"> <span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">I could enjoy the sunset, not knowing I would have no way back to the boat.</span> </span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5T8eAf70xlU/U1_oGfYxduI/AAAAAAAAFdY/QOocrlLg5v0/s1600/P4260626.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5T8eAf70xlU/U1_oGfYxduI/AAAAAAAAFdY/QOocrlLg5v0/s1600/P4260626.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">With the gathering dark came ever more-limited options. Finding that the gentle breeze now blowing would have wafted a drifting kayak farther into the cove, I immediately set out around the shoreline. I found nothing to about halfway around, when marshy ground became too much of an obstacle. Now back at the dock in full darkness (I couldn't even see the big boat), I either had to sleep at the dock and wait for daylight, try my luck at finding a local who had a boat in the water, or -- borrow one of the three little rowboats lying beside the dock. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Of the two rowboats that appeared sound, I chose one, and was pleased to find it light in weight and with oars tucked under the thwart seat. I got the hang of the oars after a few minutes and started out with the idea of finding the kayak. I reasoned that it would be easier to tow the rowboat back with the kayak, than rig the big boat to sail and bring it back that way. But out in the dark half-way across the cove I changed my mind: I would only be able to see the kayak if I tripped over it, and the little cove was much bigger in the dark. If fact, I wasn't entirely sure how to find the big boat. I finally struck out in what I hoped was the right direction, and looked for the mast to be silhouetted against the cloudy sky--which needed a distance of less than a hundred yards. Complicating the search--in a rowboat, you cannot easily see where you are going. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">After a brief search, though, I got back aboard, rigged the sail, and returned the rowboat to the dock. Then I dropped anchor in the middle of the cove, where I would be able to get under way no matter what wind the morning brought. It was after ten when I closed up the boat, and I hadn't the energy or interest enough to light the stove and make dinner. I settled down to sleep, planning my departure for well after sun-up, so I could see the yellow kayak if it were there.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Up about six I made coffee and surveyed the shoreline. No sign of the kayak. But just after seven I was off on a slow circumnavigation of the Potter's Cove shoreline in the slight breeze. Certain it was not there, I headed out of the cove, hugging the island shore in futility for a little while longer, and then headed for the Mt. Hope bridge visible across the East Passage.</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gFxQdeVDWrs/U1_oMxEB6wI/AAAAAAAAFdo/hWlkXRdAECM/s1600/P4270635.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gFxQdeVDWrs/U1_oMxEB6wI/AAAAAAAAFdo/hWlkXRdAECM/s1600/P4270635.JPG" height="153" width="640" /></a></div>
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Panorama of the outer part of Potter's Cove early the morning of departure.</div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">I reflected on the wind the day before. That that brought me into the cove in the morning had been blowing from the north-north-west, and so out of the cove--but not from my landing place, especially with the dock in the way. I could not remember the wind direction when I went on shore, and once off the beach did not notice a breeze at all. I suppose that it could have shifted direction several times in the period after the kayak floated, getting it first away from the dock, and then out of the cove. I did briefly wonder if someone hat taken it, but there was so little traffic that only a tiny handful of people could have come upon it, and the nearby pile that included my expensive inflatable life vest was untouched. </span><br />
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When winds are light and conditions comfortable, I like to sail sitting on the aft deck.</div>
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When it's cooler or windier I sit inside, making the boat more stable.</div>
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The front "door" in its place, and the foreward slot cover on, keeps wind and spray at bay. </div>
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Passing by the southeast corner of Hog Island--easier to distinguish in the video below. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BFw0Kv8utMk/U1_qL5TaqJI/AAAAAAAAFeU/EDt9nC-C3ZU/s1600/P4270650.MP4" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BFw0Kv8utMk/U1_qL5TaqJI/AAAAAAAAFeU/EDt9nC-C3ZU/s1600/P4270650.MP4" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">The trip back to Fall River was uneventful, except that shifting and foul winds and a foul current prolonged my trip up Mount Hope Bay and into the river mouth. In tacking up the bay, I encountered the semi-mythical Spar Island: a very low-lying islet found on charts but seldom encountered deliberately. Here, though, is photographic proof of its existence.</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KovALCmZ448/U1_qOz9eGrI/AAAAAAAAFec/HPQMcignwe8/s1600/P4270652.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KovALCmZ448/U1_qOz9eGrI/AAAAAAAAFec/HPQMcignwe8/s1600/P4270652.JPG" height="300" width="400" /> </a></div>
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Spar Island is just visible as a low sandbank in the middle distance. </div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">The wind got lively enough at times to lay the boat pretty far over, but I have long since become confident in her comfort at high angles of heel. Surprise likes best to be heeled about ten or fifteen degrees on her narrow bottom, which would feel a little uncomfortable in the bigger, broader boat. Threatened showers didn't materialize until the end, and I closed only the front of the cabin against the chill wind. I was glad to have my long johns on. I finally hit the dock after 2pm.</span><br />
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Jeffrey Michals-Brownhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875231268940338643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454505000240746883.post-55200618706618098182013-09-29T23:36:00.000-04:002014-03-25T20:39:48.950-04:00Nemasket River, Saturday, September 21st<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z0zSPTAHCMI/UkiGy2IXKTI/AAAAAAAAEK8/0rLdMTNlA4A/s1600/nemasket.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z0zSPTAHCMI/UkiGy2IXKTI/AAAAAAAAEK8/0rLdMTNlA4A/s640/nemasket.jpg" height="316" width="400" /></a></div>
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We launched on the Nemasket where it crosses the east-west road on the bottom right. The Nemasket runs 5 miles further, then empties into the Taunton River at upper left.</div>
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<span style="font-size: 14pt;">I've
been thinking about the Nemasket River ever since, on a <a href="http://michalsbrown.blogspot.com/2011/03/winter-float-trip-down-taunton.html">float trip</a> two winters
ago, I passed its mouth where it enters the Taunton River.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> But on</span> Google Earth it meanders wildly before it
enters, and I doubted it had enough water to be navigated all the way by
kayak.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Just recently I came across a web
page advocating kayaking in the Namasket, beginning with a nice put-in at Oliver
Mills Park.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That was all the push I
needed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14pt;">I
didn't have either time or energy enough for another overnight, so Stephen and I
decided on a long day-trip: paddle the five miles downstream to the Taunton,
and then an additional fourteen miles to where the Taunton paralleled a major
road, and where we could take out.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Since
preparing for the earlier Taunton float, I had made a chart of other possible
bail-out points--mostly bridges--so I didn't worry too much about our
speed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If the river had anything like
its rate of flow that winter, we would easily maintain two knots with only the
occasional paddle-stroke.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14pt;">We
were late getting off at Oliver Mills on Saturday, September twenty-first, partly because it was so pretty that we
spent time wandering on shore before pushing off--Stephen in our 1--foot plastic kayak, <i>Speedbump</i>, me in my 12-foot skin-on-frame kayak, <i>Musketaquid*</i>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At 10:30 we were in motion, and the Nemasket
quickly proved its worth as a beautiful and relaxing trip.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The water was at least a foot down, judging
from all the exposed banks growing grass, the flotsam stuck in overhanging tree
branches, and the appearance of the exposed banks.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I too LOTS of photos, only a third of which I
will inflict on you.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14pt;">We
encountered a lot of trees fallen across the stream, and negotiating them slowed us, including two brief portages.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Shallow rocks as well as underwater snags took a toll on the fabric skin
of my skin-on-frame kayak, eventually filling my boat with a goodly amount of
water.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>More water in the river would
probably have saved my bottom, but the fallen trees might have caused even more
trouble, since we wouldn't be able to get under as many of them.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Veo_gsDPpXg/UkiG0Y1Cu0I/AAAAAAAAELE/E9MlAMH96gc/s1600/taunton+river+from+nemasket+6+mi+to+rt+44.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Veo_gsDPpXg/UkiG0Y1Cu0I/AAAAAAAAELE/E9MlAMH96gc/s640/taunton+river+from+nemasket+6+mi+to+rt+44.jpg" height="506" width="640" /></a></div>
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From where the Nemasket enters at top right, we paddled the Taunton River another 6 miles to where it crosses the big east-west road at bottom left.</div>
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<span style="font-size: 14pt;">We hit
the Taunton right where we expected to.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>As we paddled down this larger river, it was clear that less water meant
slower flow, which meant more work for us.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>In fact, the swift stream of two winters ago had become mostly a
very long, very skinny pond.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was
equally clear that we wouldn't make our original pull-out before dark.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Another consequence of the low water was that
the rocks under several bridges gave us significant trouble--bridges I had
drifted carelessly under in the larger boat, <i><a href="http://michalsbrown.blogspot.com/p/core-sound-20-beatrice-ann.html">Bebe</a></i>, I had taken two winters
before.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The first of these was the
worst: we actually wedged the kayaks between rocks in the current, climbed out,
and tried to work the lighter boats through the shoot without (a) further
damage, (b) losing them to the current, or (c) falling in ourselves.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14pt;">We
paddled only five or six more miles before we were ready to call it a day at
the next available bridge, which we reached a little after 5pm.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My wife Beatrice was kind enough to pick us
up even as she had dropped us off in the morning.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14pt;">In its heyday, the Oliver Mill was the biggest employer in the area, </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14pt;">and operated many water wheels simultaneously for different purposes.</span></div>
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Embarking on our little adventure.</div>
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The grassy flats are, I think, usually underwater.</div>
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Our first obstacle was only a warm-up for what lay ahead.</div>
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A few stretches were as straight as canals.</div>
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What killed this tree after it had gotten so big? (Swamps are often full of such trees: </div>
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do their roots drown as they sink under their own growing weight?)</div>
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Our first bridge was a picturesque one.</div>
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The adirondack chair hints, "here live some who appreciate the water."</div>
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This was narrower than it looked; left some paint behind here.</div>
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Even though we are in eastern Massachusetts, we float for miles with only a few homes visible.</div>
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A screened gazebo is a pretty cool way to make the river bank </div>
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a place for three-season relaxation.</div>
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Stephen is still learning that it's better to hit a gap in line with the current. </div>
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Another obstacle ahead.</div>
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High-tension lines follow the river for quite a way; </div>
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I found the cracking hum they emitted a little alarming.</div>
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Sometimes the water could be pretty weedy.</div>
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It's beautiful--but why did this red maple turn so far ahead of its neighbors?</div>
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More power lines.</div>
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More weeds.</div>
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I had not mapped bridges on the Nemasket, but expected </div>
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we would get well into the Taunton before we could possibly need rescue.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uTOdF60oHr8/UkeITGFnbdI/AAAAAAAAEI4/bGo137IT9SU/s1600/P9210388.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uTOdF60oHr8/UkeITGFnbdI/AAAAAAAAEI4/bGo137IT9SU/s400/P9210388.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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About to enter the last meanders.</div>
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Finally in the Taunton: Stephen is just entering the river, </div>
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while I am looking upsteam in the Taunton. Few pictures after this.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qZKWtKDcRto/UkeInt-2kFI/AAAAAAAAEJI/A1UR5tNl3b4/s1600/P9210392.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qZKWtKDcRto/UkeInt-2kFI/AAAAAAAAEJI/A1UR5tNl3b4/s400/P9210392.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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The Titicut Street bridge was a challenge: too much current for so little depth.</div>
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It is instantly obvious the Taunton is different from the Nemasket:</div>
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no more shallow edges and grassy flats.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oFtCJBg1JvI/UkeI7hHYwBI/AAAAAAAAEJY/hcHo0ihaEX0/s1600/P9210395.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oFtCJBg1JvI/UkeI7hHYwBI/AAAAAAAAEJY/hcHo0ihaEX0/s400/P9210395.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Spoke a little too soon: there was no simple path among these rocks, </div>
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and Musketiquid grounded on several submerged rocks.</div>
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I loved the reflections. It was a breezy day, but we were usually protected.</div>
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Lunch stop on a 90 degree bend in the river. The gallon of water</div>
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I thought Musketaquid had taken on was more like six gallons!</div>
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Gentle bend.</div>
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We inadvertently alarmed a family of mallards.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-94OJbbXLH6E/UkebnEHp0eI/AAAAAAAAEKY/ITFzUrgSN5A/s1600/P9210409.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-94OJbbXLH6E/UkebnEHp0eI/AAAAAAAAEKY/ITFzUrgSN5A/s400/P9210409.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Just past these rocks, we would end our trip on the upstream side of route 44.</div>
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Fair-weather clouds.</div>
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Route 44 is a busy, fast-moving road, </div>
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but there was a wide grassy verge to make loading the boats safer.</div>
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*Musketaquid or "grass-grown river" was the indian name for the Concord River, as well as the name of Henry David Thoreau's boat.</div>
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Jeffrey Michals-Brownhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875231268940338643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454505000240746883.post-16752636525509961692013-09-19T21:03:00.000-04:002014-04-30T10:22:25.720-04:00Point Judith, RI to Montauk, Long Island<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitozAv8isuQYmLABQlfO446ZViUU9vBgl7g1sLTyCX_xQsGy2zpNZQoOHAQbPUQSohaC-WUlSFKbz-rq5j4Fe18MGTm89b5TnyP3R7u3-mW0OvBe6iWEb3jOSRUX_0kCQ1G5cIhApR96bc/s1600/pt+judith+to+montauk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitozAv8isuQYmLABQlfO446ZViUU9vBgl7g1sLTyCX_xQsGy2zpNZQoOHAQbPUQSohaC-WUlSFKbz-rq5j4Fe18MGTm89b5TnyP3R7u3-mW0OvBe6iWEb3jOSRUX_0kCQ1G5cIhApR96bc/s640/pt+judith+to+montauk.jpg" height="518" width="640" /></a></div>
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A line shows the course from Point Judith Harbor of Refuge to the entrance to Montauk Harbor.</div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">I've often
been struck by how close the eastern end of Long Island is to Block Island on
the chart.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The twenty-six nautical miles
from Point Judith on the mainland to Montauk, LI isn't much more than twice the
distance to Block Island.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Gotta do
it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: 16pt;">But
when?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The summer was busy with teaching
in Upward Bound, church camp and scout camp and family travel for Stephen, school
camp for Trevor, a week-long stay for the whole family at the AMC Ponkapoag
Camp, and then all at once the school year was upon us.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Though the trip was planned, and waiting for
the right opportunity, I began to decide that the relaxing week by Ponkapoag
Pond would just have to substitute for a boat trip this year.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">But
then the Jewish holidays (traditionally no-school days) fell on
Thursday-Friday, leaving 4 contiguous days to play with--a bit more if we could
get away after school on Wednesday!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And
the weather looked promising, if a bit gusty.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">I
normally only take Trevor on trips this long; the <i>Beatrice Ann</i> is too crowded with three,
and Trevor is the better sailor of the two boys.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But Beatrice couldn't supervise kids with her
work schedule that week, so Stephen went as Second Officer, shoe-horned between
us in the bunks.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With some careful
planning we all fit pretty well.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">We
rolled out of the driveway on Wednesday just after 6pm--late, as usual.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Beatrice came along, so she could take the
car and trailer home rather than chance leaving them 3 nights in a distant
parking lot.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We arrived at the Great
Island ramp on Point Judith Pond before 8pm, and pushed off in the darkness
before 9 with <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Speedbump</i>, our little
plastic kayak, in tow.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">The
launch ramp is very near to the opening of the Pond, but shallow water and a
low wooden bridge force a two-mile detour around Great Island to arrive nearly
at our starting point--but on the correct side of the bridge.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the process, we got lost for some time in the darkness in the irregular, island-studded pond.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Finally nearing the opening, decision was needed.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">The
Pond leads to the open waters of the Atlantic via a breachway hosting tidal
currents of two knots or more--The wind usually foul.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
would not contemplate going against such a current with no motor.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The current as favorable at that moment, and
wouldn't be again until 9am next morning.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>On the one hand, anchoring overnight in the Pond would give us a quiet
night, but force us to wait until 9am to head for open water.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On the other hand, we could go straight out
on the night's favorable tide and anchor safely--if not so comfortably--in
mile-long Point Judith Harbor of Refuge, guarded from most wave action by
artificial stone breakwaters.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That done,
we could leave as early in the morning as we liked--important with so many
miles to go, in potentially unfavorable winds.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Decision made: we headed out the breachway in the starry darkness,
dropping anchor safely outside the channel at about 10pm.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After shoe-horning ourselves into bed, we
read for an hour, then shut off the lantern and tried to sleep.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuLSwcU9yKVinGXY50vC7hogXRYfkee9brrsYMfCvfkK2OnTbj5Hjamd3DBZlrzfoxZZrmW3tzfF9kKMntsKSoSp6ZczkA7wCJhbVBEGNnlELw2f_e8M8PNJJH_tgBGINdrzC6BvsROjH2/s1600/Harbor+of+Refuge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuLSwcU9yKVinGXY50vC7hogXRYfkee9brrsYMfCvfkK2OnTbj5Hjamd3DBZlrzfoxZZrmW3tzfF9kKMntsKSoSp6ZczkA7wCJhbVBEGNnlELw2f_e8M8PNJJH_tgBGINdrzC6BvsROjH2/s640/Harbor+of+Refuge.jpg" height="518" width="640" /></a></div>
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Point Judith Harbor of Refuge. You see the problem?</div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">I was
already awake at 3am when I heard the sound of an approaching engine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Alarmed, I popped my head out the hatch to
find a fishing boat bearing down on us.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Almost before I could summon a rational plan, the boat swept past only a
few yards away, leaving me gape-mouthed and rocking in her wake.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Although we were not anchored too close to
the channel, nor to the western entrance to the Harbor, the most sensible path
leading to a second, eastern entrance to the harbor.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had been foolish to allow the all-important
lantern to be used for reading, and only dumb luck had kept us alive.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I tied the lantern to the cabin top and
turned on both mantles, <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>then returned to
my bunk, ears tuned nervously to the regular sounds of fishermen venturing
forth, keeping me awake most of the night.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SJgSOC6eavU/UjTvP-xTwEI/AAAAAAAAD8c/1koUfzscBGM/s1600/P9050302.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SJgSOC6eavU/UjTvP-xTwEI/AAAAAAAAD8c/1koUfzscBGM/s400/P9050302.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Our anchorage in Pt. Judith Harbor-of-Refuge. Above: the breachway. </div>
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Below: the distant rock breakwater that makes the harbor possible.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OydUhmGdIFU/UjTvVcL4xUI/AAAAAAAAD8k/yJZiWuuHU28/s1600/P9050304.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OydUhmGdIFU/UjTvVcL4xUI/AAAAAAAAD8k/yJZiWuuHU28/s400/P9050304.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">I was up before 7am for a
variation of my usual routine: set water to boil for coffee while I brush my
teeth and wash my face, then ready the boat to sail as the boys got out of
bed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Conservative in the face of
predicted 20kt gusts on blue water, I began by dropping the mainmast, and with
Stephen’s help lashed it alongside and moved the mizzen to the reefing
step.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This was the safer of my two
reefing options.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the other was to roll
part of each sail around the mast, but this left a baggy mess forward and
limited the boat's effectiveness to sail to weather.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Moving the mast instead had the advantage of
preserving the boat's ability to sail to weather, but the disadvantage of
needing to be done at anchor in calm seas.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I knew the predicted winds might not materialize, but wanted to err on
the side of safety.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nO3gKm5ynCs/UjTvYR13qAI/AAAAAAAAD8s/OPXJOfiKJbM/s1600/P9050307.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nO3gKm5ynCs/UjTvYR13qAI/AAAAAAAAD8s/OPXJOfiKJbM/s400/P9050307.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Interesting traffic. I think this a very practical-looking power cruiser with character. </div>
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The barge below was being towed by a tug from a looong way away.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--C_VRGsekEo/UjTva2KlqvI/AAAAAAAAD80/5bPN1PZ1DGk/s1600/P9050309.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--C_VRGsekEo/UjTva2KlqvI/AAAAAAAAD80/5bPN1PZ1DGk/s400/P9050309.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">We had the anchor up and were
under sail at 8am—an hour ahead of a favorable current in the breachway--and
had a breakfast of donuts and cold cereal underway. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was pleasantly surprised to find that the
compass steadied on our course to Montauk only moderately close-hauled: I had expected
to tack upwind all the way, and had prepared for that eventuality.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This was the good news because it shortened
the trip from a zig-zag to a straight line.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The other good news was that we never had 20kt gusts.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The bad news was that we also never reached
the 10-15kt winds predicted.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was a
loooong day, sailing 26+nm over about 14 hours at an average of a little over
2kt.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In retrospect, trading a good
night's sleep for an hour's head-start may have been penny-wise but
pound-foolish.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QdFyn5Y0Yg0/UjjwGwLtlhI/AAAAAAAAD_0/YOJJ7Zd--0I/s1600/P9050312.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QdFyn5Y0Yg0/UjjwGwLtlhI/AAAAAAAAD_0/YOJJ7Zd--0I/s400/P9050312.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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I don't do much blue water sailing, and have always been struck by the immensity of the horizon when I have. This trip I almost didn't notice.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xjUnS35OgP0/UjjwL83ZmuI/AAAAAAAAD_8/M3Z3qOVLZXQ/s1600/P9050317.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xjUnS35OgP0/UjjwL83ZmuI/AAAAAAAAD_8/M3Z3qOVLZXQ/s400/P9050317.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Our course didn't take us very close to our old friend, Block Island.</div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: 16pt;">Besides the light winds and
reduced sail, two other things slowed our progress: first, I handed over the
tiller to Trevor so I could get a nap after an exhausting hour in which winds
were so light as to barely give steerageway.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Winds filled in a bit while I lay down, and when I came back into the
cockpit an hour-and-a-half later I found the boat close to Block Island and far
off course, with the wind abaft the beam but sail sheeted in pretty tight; second
and much later, the mismatch between evident speed through the water and the
much slower gps speed over the ground sent me to Eldredge, there to discover
that we were fighting a current that may have exceeded 2kt in some places.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: 16pt;">On the other hand, it was a
really beautiful day, comfortably cool and cloudy, with the most amazing clouds.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I took many cloud photos.</span><br />
</div>
<h3 style="text-align: center;">
I love looking at clouds. Most people hardly ever look up.<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U-vh090MV14/UjTvdnrldzI/AAAAAAAAD88/OQayX3Nwh8Q/s1600/P9050319.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U-vh090MV14/UjTvdnrldzI/AAAAAAAAD88/OQayX3Nwh8Q/s400/P9050319.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dXdynhT1oxk/UjTvgZ_ZdrI/AAAAAAAAD9E/_UeQov4LLJo/s1600/P9050320.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dXdynhT1oxk/UjTvgZ_ZdrI/AAAAAAAAD9E/_UeQov4LLJo/s400/P9050320.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-N6ryBMoGN9I/UjTvizejrgI/AAAAAAAAD9Q/SZ_SLq_gsQY/s1600/P9050322.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-N6ryBMoGN9I/UjTvizejrgI/AAAAAAAAD9Q/SZ_SLq_gsQY/s400/P9050322.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TD5cDqRC89I/UjTvk8En74I/AAAAAAAAD9U/4mEFdC68-2A/s1600/P9050323.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TD5cDqRC89I/UjTvk8En74I/AAAAAAAAD9U/4mEFdC68-2A/s400/P9050323.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NWXc6_dDmc0/UjTvnl3kkCI/AAAAAAAAD9c/s9itQxo-3RE/s1600/P9050324.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NWXc6_dDmc0/UjTvnl3kkCI/AAAAAAAAD9c/s9itQxo-3RE/s400/P9050324.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nvf2uVN_T6A/UjTvq9FIIQI/AAAAAAAAD9k/eIsTK2ezENc/s1600/P9050326.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nvf2uVN_T6A/UjTvq9FIIQI/AAAAAAAAD9k/eIsTK2ezENc/s400/P9050326.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wPr5nEMsWDg/UjTvs9-nNVI/AAAAAAAAD9s/642b5VhTB7M/s400/P9050327.JPG" height="300" width="400" /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OIoR5cEYUZU/UjTvx3klUjI/AAAAAAAAD90/06yF1yTP_L8/s1600/P9050329.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OIoR5cEYUZU/UjTvx3klUjI/AAAAAAAAD90/06yF1yTP_L8/s400/P9050329.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></h3>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: 16pt;">On the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">other</i> other hand, our slow progress meant we neared Montauk Point
in twilight (after a gorgeous sunset), and would have to enter Montauk Harbor
in full darkness.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I spent time studying
the chart to fix the positions and patterns of several lights and lighted buoys
in my head, put a headlamp in my pocket, and readied the spotlight in case we
had to get someone’s attention.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Clued in
that dinner would be a diy affair, the boys rummaged the aft locker while I
switched on the running lights.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2kvcLYA5seU/UjTv3mQk_3I/AAAAAAAAD98/VcoK_XUjG-8/s1600/P9050331.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2kvcLYA5seU/UjTv3mQk_3I/AAAAAAAAD98/VcoK_XUjG-8/s400/P9050331.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Our first clear look at Montauk Point.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Montauk Light at left, a giant radar antenna right of center.</div>
<br />
<h3 align="center">
With the winds fairly light, I had time to do some justice to the sunset.<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NbIZa4haMC4/UjTv6hcbLjI/AAAAAAAAD-E/SMyktYbELI4/s1600/P9050333.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NbIZa4haMC4/UjTv6hcbLjI/AAAAAAAAD-E/SMyktYbELI4/s400/P9050333.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-goLZkTpqs3M/UjTv9xqXs_I/AAAAAAAAD-M/7BxNlrU0fqI/s1600/P9050334.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-goLZkTpqs3M/UjTv9xqXs_I/AAAAAAAAD-M/7BxNlrU0fqI/s400/P9050334.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uw0MxyQL9i4/UjTwBspsM4I/AAAAAAAAD-U/Hd3LCM5JCns/s1600/P9050335.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uw0MxyQL9i4/UjTwBspsM4I/AAAAAAAAD-U/Hd3LCM5JCns/s400/P9050335.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0qSvcZ7LX7M/UjTwFkQY79I/AAAAAAAAD-c/A0e2Tg8n2y8/s1600/P9050336.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0qSvcZ7LX7M/UjTwFkQY79I/AAAAAAAAD-c/A0e2Tg8n2y8/s400/P9050336.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oJcXZMOX9mg/UjTwJG2NI1I/AAAAAAAAD-k/Ku96UyAaHPU/s1600/P9050338.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oJcXZMOX9mg/UjTwJG2NI1I/AAAAAAAAD-k/Ku96UyAaHPU/s400/P9050338.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></h3>
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<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: 16pt;">An interesting experience as
I neared the buoy I had watched for hours on the gps at the end of a long day: as
we neared it in the dark I began to shave the buoy more and more closely.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Finally passing it only a dozen or so yards
off, I suddenly notice the wind behind us, then looked up to find Montauk
Point—left behind more than an hour ago—dead ahead.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Without realizing it, I had spiraled around
the light in the darkness, making a complete course reversal by the time I’d
left it astern!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was very tired.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXZ0mxEXy4wUunhLiSZZ_xJ6Nei9muh2Pv6xiWyJJo3voReveRYkyJ4PBnzNaG6TWr1DGcLjPWIy7NJQbGEwqW12pJ8OcvNCSOixSr6TlqadWXdlDiGK_faEOiZ7evQ8gm9UTiQoxeVJdj/s1600/Lake+Montauk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXZ0mxEXy4wUunhLiSZZ_xJ6Nei9muh2Pv6xiWyJJo3voReveRYkyJ4PBnzNaG6TWr1DGcLjPWIy7NJQbGEwqW12pJ8OcvNCSOixSr6TlqadWXdlDiGK_faEOiZ7evQ8gm9UTiQoxeVJdj/s640/Lake+Montauk.jpg" height="640" width="628" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Lake Montauk was the largest freshwater lake on Long Island until a developer opened it to the sea in the 1920s. Imagine blindly perpetrating such ecological destruction! Times <b>have</b> changed for the better.</div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: 16pt;">After that, things went
smoothly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Returning powerboats showed us
that the water was deep close inshore, and led us to the harbor entrance.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The entrance lights were clearly
visible.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The moderate current was with
us.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Traffic was light.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Stephen phoned Beatrice to announce our
arrival as we sailed into the harbor.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My
only confusion was finding the narrow passage out of the harbor and into
Montauk Lake proper, amid the visually busy and brightly-lit scene.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I finally dropped anchor near the southern
end of the lake, and joined the boys in sleep at perhaps 11pm.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-size: 16pt;">The
next morning was a late one after repeatedly being awakened in the night by powerboat
wakes, and no one stirred much before 8am.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We ate a leisurely breakfast, and then got the anchor up and began
sailing the lake shore looking for a place where we could go ashore and get to
a road without going through someone's yard.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>(This is ever the quest of the cheapskate small boat traveler.)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Giving up on the south end of the lake, which
had seemed promising on a map, we headed for Star Island and its convenient
causeway.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Oddly enough, the south side
of the causeway was totally empty of boats, even though the north side was
chock-a-block. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We soon learned why: a
row of floating markers forbade anchoring (among other crimes) anywhere inside
their limits.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nE9zauqU1KM/UjTwM6PNJ0I/AAAAAAAAD-s/3L1UgfSaKnc/s1600/P9060339.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nE9zauqU1KM/UjTwM6PNJ0I/AAAAAAAAD-s/3L1UgfSaKnc/s400/P9060339.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
We did find one landing place with access to a road, but it turned out to be in the boonies. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--HPKpBMEmBw/UjTwR1ifX9I/AAAAAAAAD-0/8aJNHni_cso/s1600/P9060341.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--HPKpBMEmBw/UjTwR1ifX9I/AAAAAAAAD-0/8aJNHni_cso/s400/P9060341.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">After
a tour of the harbor, and a fruitless attempt to contact the harbormaster for
advice, we found a public boat ramp at the top of the lake.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A local fisherman there advised that we
probably wouldn't be bothered if we anchored just off the ramp.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the end, we got ashore without unlimbering
the inflatable boat: a minor coup, since repacking the thing tightly enough to fit
in its place under the starboard berth has always been a challenge.</span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cgkKQbj4jcw/UjTwYOuFiOI/AAAAAAAAD-8/ybqBp10Yf3w/s1600/P9060344.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cgkKQbj4jcw/UjTwYOuFiOI/AAAAAAAAD-8/ybqBp10Yf3w/s400/P9060344.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
We accidentally shared the public landing with a crew taking photographs for (I suppose) some ad campaign. They posed the model like he was a mannequin. If the car needed to be moved, a driver did it. I overheard one say it was time to get back to NYC. He even said, "Ciao."</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VVnQF8ZKZpU/UjTwf7IZEkI/AAAAAAAAD_E/anlJymmnOko/s1600/P9060345.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VVnQF8ZKZpU/UjTwf7IZEkI/AAAAAAAAD_E/anlJymmnOko/s400/P9060345.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-size: 16pt;">Here
is where my uneven trip preparation told: I had prepared well for the passage
itself, but--owing to the last-minute decision to go--had not finished laying
the groundwork for our stay in East Hampton, of which Montauk is one village.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I'd had an idea we would hike nature trails, and
maybe visit Montauk Light, but we didn't even have a street map when we
arrived.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When we had changed into our
dry shoes, we began trooping south in my mistaken belief that any kind of
"downtown" lay that way.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-size: 16pt;">Instead
of becoming Main Street, our road instead became more and more of a
highway--without even a sidewalk.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We
trooped for miles as cars whizzed past.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We gradually developed the idea that East Hamptonites were always in a
hurry (probably to make enough money to keep their big yachts afloat), and too
frenetic ever to walk anywhere.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The boys
followed their foolish dad nearly five fruitless miles before we found
ourselves back at the ramp in the fading afternoon.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Our time ashore was fast approaching its end.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aVdvdy8DhtQ/UjTwkN4UjEI/AAAAAAAAD_M/dLr2rD7x5bQ/s1600/P9060346.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aVdvdy8DhtQ/UjTwkN4UjEI/AAAAAAAAD_M/dLr2rD7x5bQ/s400/P9060346.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
First Trevor, then Stephen, gets a turn in the kayak.</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
The <i>Beatrice Ann</i> is below, upper right.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Fc66IkZllxE/UjTwsEdZymI/AAAAAAAAD_U/4G8TmNrRNxU/s1600/P9060351.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Fc66IkZllxE/UjTwsEdZymI/AAAAAAAAD_U/4G8TmNrRNxU/s400/P9060351.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-size: 16pt;">While
the boys played with the kayak, I decided to go north toward the harbor
entrance, and stumbled upon the tourist life of the harbor: restaurants, a
modest food market, and the fishermen, yachtsmen and tourists the town caters
to.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The three of us returned north in
the early evening, watched the sun set over Gardiner's Island, walked the rock
breakwaters that protected the harbor entrance, bought ice for the cooler, and
then--when cheaper fare was unavailable--went to the Hideaway for a meal of
Mexican food.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It wasn't the stay I'd
intended, but it would do.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iOTo8LjcSs8/UjjxVyJB25I/AAAAAAAAEAI/TivMmLxq4pM/s1600/P9060347.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iOTo8LjcSs8/UjjxVyJB25I/AAAAAAAAEAI/TivMmLxq4pM/s400/P9060347.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Looking east at the harbor entrance, then west down Long Island.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZNlk82NXC9g/Ujjxdt-950I/AAAAAAAAEAQ/f0au7zqE0ek/s1600/P9060348.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZNlk82NXC9g/Ujjxdt-950I/AAAAAAAAEAQ/f0au7zqE0ek/s400/P9060348.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZaubT-pPJwk/UjjxmvIuFMI/AAAAAAAAEAY/W7n0Bb8CV14/s1600/P9060349.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZaubT-pPJwk/UjjxmvIuFMI/AAAAAAAAEAY/W7n0Bb8CV14/s400/P9060349.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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This restaurant looked like a nice place to sit and watch the water traffic</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
--until I saw the menu prices.</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZwcYAGkLnOc/UjpU6kscXRI/AAAAAAAAED4/-CjfVTTEAgg/s1600/P9060352.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZwcYAGkLnOc/UjpU6kscXRI/AAAAAAAAED4/-CjfVTTEAgg/s400/P9060352.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Though I gave them only a few minutes, the boys determine to run to the end of the west breakwater.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
In only a few moments, they are on their way back.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7MlLghdCH5k/UjpVBjkhoGI/AAAAAAAAEEA/INK5M-L6HNc/s1600/P9060353.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7MlLghdCH5k/UjpVBjkhoGI/AAAAAAAAEEA/INK5M-L6HNc/s400/P9060353.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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A Wharram Polynesian catamaran is an odd sight around here.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<h2 class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Sunset over Gardner Island, Long Island<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--H3p56ioiVI/UjpVFks78kI/AAAAAAAAEEI/y5qH6qPgMFE/s1600/P9060354.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--H3p56ioiVI/UjpVFks78kI/AAAAAAAAEEI/y5qH6qPgMFE/s400/P9060354.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lwqv9RE9jzY/UjpVJf0lcBI/AAAAAAAAEEQ/VrYo_XgYYbU/s1600/P9060355.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lwqv9RE9jzY/UjpVJf0lcBI/AAAAAAAAEEQ/VrYo_XgYYbU/s400/P9060355.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2-Aeo7yOdiA/UjpVPdYoN_I/AAAAAAAAEEY/NHU9oM5EeVY/s1600/P9060356.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2-Aeo7yOdiA/UjpVPdYoN_I/AAAAAAAAEEY/NHU9oM5EeVY/s400/P9060356.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></h2>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: 16pt;">We got
back aboard well after dark, and sailed back to the south end of the lake to be
close to the windward shore.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It worked:
absent a few wakes, the boat was as still as our beds at home, and I got the
best night's sleep of the trip.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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This is how the crew of the Beatrice Ann spends their evenings.</div>
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(I have my book too, and a glass of wine as well.)</div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">Thoreau
said, "only that day dawns to which we are awake."<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Taking his words to heart, I rose shortly
before dawn to see the sun rise as I sipped my coffee.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then I got the boys up and they helped me return
masts to their places: I decided we would begin under full sail.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Strong and gusty winds were again predicted,
but with this difference: with the wind abaft the beam the whole way, I would
not need to worry about windward performance if I reefed by rolling the sails
around the masts.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-v_X08jjQw-4/UjjxwmtO-oI/AAAAAAAAEAo/_CCESrW1fYE/s1600/P9070360.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-v_X08jjQw-4/UjjxwmtO-oI/AAAAAAAAEAo/_CCESrW1fYE/s400/P9070360.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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"Only that day dawns to which we are awake." -H.D.Thoreau</div>
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And I am watching that day dawn, coffee cup in hand.</div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">We got
the anchor up just after 7am, and headed for the harbor mouth.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Winds were moderate and I felt confident
enough to make instant oatmeal for breakfast with the hot water I'd reserved in a
thermos.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The boys had just finished
their second helpings when we began passing out the breakwaters. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Two things happened within a minute of each
other: the wind, earlier baffled by buildings, increased to full strength; then
as we left the breakwater behind the boat was rocked by big, steep seas sending
us scrambling for balance.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yEGqtsYPZvI/Ujjx30z6vkI/AAAAAAAAEAw/KhrwhzAmLug/s1600/P9070369.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yEGqtsYPZvI/Ujjx30z6vkI/AAAAAAAAEAw/KhrwhzAmLug/s400/P9070369.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Montauk Harbor hosts a Coast Guard Station with a armed cutter.</div>
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Headed for the harbor mouth.</div>
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Stephen has the con while I mix the oatmeal.</div>
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I was surprised to see the shore lined with RVs. </div>
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I don't know how they got there, nor how far they are above the high tide mark. </div>
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<img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rV_TMWlkjTM/UjjyX9yzmRI/AAAAAAAAEBg/UxhEwPFtH0U/s400/P9070376.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></div>
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Stephen: timoneer.</div>
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<br /></div>
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A closer look at the radar dish.</div>
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Trevor, more comfortable with the tiller, got a long turn as helmsman.</div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">Within
a few seconds I had the boat under control and headed downwind along the
coast.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Once we had passed Montauk Point
seas moderated, and the boys began taking their turns steering.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It seems the steep seas were the result of
currents opposing the strong winds.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>These currents diminished when we had cleared the Point.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<br />
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">Now
began the long sleigh-ride home.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We got
used to creaming along on wave tops--a few times surfing the same wave long
enough to get the gps up to 10kt: a record.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Since we sailed with the wind, it was easy to forget what the true wind
speed was.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But the little yellow kayak
got loose not once but twice, the second time without being noticed right away,
sending us tacking back to retrieve it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Beating against the strong wind and waves brought home the true conditions.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vsJjvM2yNvk/UjlatjCIpiI/AAAAAAAAEDM/wJ5QQ7-HRX4/s1600/P9070383.MP4" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vsJjvM2yNvk/UjlatjCIpiI/AAAAAAAAEDM/wJ5QQ7-HRX4/s400/P9070383.MP4" height="225" width="400" /></a></div>
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Report from the half-way point.</div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">As we
got farther from land, I decided we had better reef for safety.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We hove to, and the boys kept the mainsheet
running free while I went on the foredeck to rotate the mainmast and wrap up
20% of the sail area. Having forgotten to rig the new mast for reefing, I had
to jury-rig it a bit, but after one abortive attempt, the reef held.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I did not reef the mizzen, which would have
to have been done while lying ahull.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>With the main reduced a little, the motion became a little less
"edgy," a little safer.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(I
told Stephen that if I didn't name our next boat "42," then perhaps
it would be called "Edge of Disaster," since that is the way we
sometimes seem to sail.)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>[Forty-two is, of course, the
Answer to the Question of Life, the Universe, and Everything, according to
Douglas Adams' <u>Hitchhikers' Guide to the Galaxy</u>.]<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">The
only other adventure to befall us on the 8-hour ride across Block Island Sound
was the capsizing of the little kayak--twice.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>This apparently resulted from our attempts to get the little boat to tow
more easily, rather than alternately dancing in semicircles, bringing up with a
jerk as the slack came out of the towline, and surfing down waves to ram the
bigger boat.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Riding on a shortened tow
line, the little boat would sometimes flip over, rapidly filling with water
until all but the aft end was sunk.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In
such a position, the kayak was nearly impossible to rescue: too low in the
water to bail out, and too heavy to lift.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>After taking a half hour of strenuous to rescue the first time, I got
smarter; the next time it flipped I acted much more quickly so the boat
wouldn't have time to fill.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>All three of
us would manhandle the loggy thing across the cockpit and carefully dump out
enough water so that the bailer could do the rest.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After two such rescues, I entertained the
idea of simply cutting the tow if it happened again.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(Coming through the gap in the breakwater
into the Harbor of Refuge, I actually had Trevor standing by with a sharp
knife, since I wasn't willing to risk the big boat near these rocks if the
kayak should suddenly become a sea anchor.)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VLM6_Dsah00/UjlM1MOLHbI/AAAAAAAAEC0/t9wKA8fC7vQ/s1600/P9070382.MP4" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VLM6_Dsah00/UjlM1MOLHbI/AAAAAAAAEC0/t9wKA8fC7vQ/s400/P9070382.MP4" height="225" width="400" /></a></div>
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One mile to Point Judith.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuLSwcU9yKVinGXY50vC7hogXRYfkee9brrsYMfCvfkK2OnTbj5Hjamd3DBZlrzfoxZZrmW3tzfF9kKMntsKSoSp6ZczkA7wCJhbVBEGNnlELw2f_e8M8PNJJH_tgBGINdrzC6BvsROjH2/s1600/Harbor+of+Refuge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuLSwcU9yKVinGXY50vC7hogXRYfkee9brrsYMfCvfkK2OnTbj5Hjamd3DBZlrzfoxZZrmW3tzfF9kKMntsKSoSp6ZczkA7wCJhbVBEGNnlELw2f_e8M8PNJJH_tgBGINdrzC6BvsROjH2/s640/Harbor+of+Refuge.jpg" height="518" width="640" /></a></div>
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The Harbor of Refuge is over a mile long.</div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">We
came into the Harbor of Refuge at about 3pm--well ahead of the turning of the
tide that would allow us to sail into Point Judith Pond.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We dropped anchor at the south end of the
Harbor (where we should have spent that first night), and I enjoyed an hour and
a half of bird-watching.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Flocks of birds
that may have been storm petrels flew and floated over the nearby harbor the
whole of this time.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was fascinated by
their beauty, and the nonchalant way they had of landing: floating down the
wind and reaching the water, they simply began floating on the water without
apparent transition.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CQVBgVRY_ms/UjlazVtVAII/AAAAAAAAEDY/b2EiHLHElDc/s1600/P9070385.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CQVBgVRY_ms/UjlazVtVAII/AAAAAAAAEDY/b2EiHLHElDc/s400/P9070385.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Bird- an sky-watching in the Harbor of Refuge. </div>
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<br />
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">About
4:30pm we headed up the breachway with the early flood tide.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I phoned Beatrice to tell her we were
entering the Pond, and she prepared to make the trip down with the
trailer.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Since the water in most of Point
Judith Pond is thin to nonexistent even at high tide, we stuck religiously to
the channel until it was time for the turn at the north end of Great
Island.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With careful study of the chart
and a sharp lookout forward, we managed not to touch bottom until we were on
our way up the western side of the island.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Then we faced a problem: the wind was ahead of us, and so were depths that
seldom exceeded three feet at low tide.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>To make matters worse, the muddy bottom was choked with a dense mat of
algae that fouled the centerboard even before we touched.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The wind was still significant, resisting all
other options: neither trolling motor nor oars were equal to it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We would anchor repeatedly to try different
things, then lift the extravagantly-slimed anchor and see if the rising tide
would allow any further progress.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hours
of struggle to go only about a half mile.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We finally arrived at the ramp to find patient Beatrice with the trailer
and some fresh clamcakes and chowder.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>She waved away my apologies, saying, "of course you're late: it's a
BOAT."<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 16pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">This trip put a fitting and memorable end to the
sailing season, nearly equal to last year's August trip around Cape Cod</span></div>
Jeffrey Michals-Brownhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875231268940338643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454505000240746883.post-14124307567497441382013-09-14T18:59:00.001-04:002014-04-30T10:27:06.747-04:00Late August on Bumpkin Island<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBeLZg0gBYFAWKE4S8ASJS-jmWDe-e7GyC7Ri1CPxLl7FXCaqG6quPrvDJrHiqsF8bg4MfOVht097VRKQiq538so8de_UXAK1rBKAx_GcwpSV_Lwro25puwseUIW9pey7wIQKNGiWbD5rb/s1600/Bumpkin+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBeLZg0gBYFAWKE4S8ASJS-jmWDe-e7GyC7Ri1CPxLl7FXCaqG6quPrvDJrHiqsF8bg4MfOVht097VRKQiq538so8de_UXAK1rBKAx_GcwpSV_Lwro25puwseUIW9pey7wIQKNGiWbD5rb/s640/Bumpkin+2.jpg" height="518" width="640" /></a></div>
<o:p></o:p><br />
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-size: 14pt;">Disappointed
of my Big Trip plans by summer calendar squeeze, I decided instead that it was
time for the Fourth Annual Boston Harbor Islands Trip with Stephen.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My indecision on where to camp this year was
short-circuited by the limited choices available on such short notice: we would
stay our two nights on Bumpkin Island. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bumpkin I had hitherto avoided because it was
nearly connected to the mainland at low tide--scarcely an island at all, I thought.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-size: 16pt;"><span style="font-size: small;">
</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 16pt;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;">To
change up the experience a bit, I decided we would take <i>Bebe</i>, our nimble
eleven-foot lug-rigged pram.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This was a
boat I used seldom, and I had recently spruced it up with a reinforced mast and
a layer of fiberglass to protect the interior. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><i>Bebe</i> would also be a good boat for Stephen to
learn on. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The island was only a 2 1/4
miles from the ramp, after all, and in protected waters.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Because the boat only weights 120lb and has
its own wheels, I could ignore the ramp and roll it straight down the
beach.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The real challenge would be
trimming our camping gear to a pile the little boat could accommodate.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Stephen likes the bigger cabin boat, and was
not too sure about Bebe.</span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: 16pt;"></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-size: 16pt;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;">At Hingham
beach nearly an hour's drive from home, I discovered I'd forgotten the
mast.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If that seems unbelievable, it is
probably because I usually handle mast, sail, boom and yard in a single bundle;
but the mast had been separated from it so I could work on it earlier in the
summer.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Loading the bundle on the roof,
I was too preoccupied to notice it was there was one stick missing--even if it
was the biggest one.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Unwilling to reload
everything back on the car and trailer, I asked Stephen to watch the boat while
I went back for the mast.</span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: 16pt;">
</span> </div>
<span style="font-size: 16pt;"></span><br />
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-size: 16pt;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;">Two
hours later I was back with mast and a few other forgotten items.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Stephen was not happy: he had gotten aquainted
with not one but two police officers, and several beach-goers concerned he was alone so long.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One mother
returned to the beach with a snack for him, bless her.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: 16pt;"><span style="font-size: small;">
</span></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-size: 16pt;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;">After
smoothing a few feathers we completed our cargo, rigged, and sailed off the
beach in light to moderate wind a good two hours later than I had planned.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On the one hand the tide had been rising, so
we were able to go straight out and ignore the tortuous channel.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On the other hand, there was less than two
hours of daylight.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Though I have sailed this
boat at night, I had not brought the nav lights, had not been to Bumpkin
before, did not have the chart, and had not set any waypoints into the
gps.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(Just <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">writing</i> that last sentence fills me with chagrin.)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But I knew the island was almost due north of
our launch point, close by, and in sight.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: 16pt;"><span style="font-size: small;">
</span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: 16pt;">
</span>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;">However
I had not banked on the lateness of the day, and had especially not banked on
the fog bank.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(Sorry--couldn't
resist.)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Yes, fog closed in within a half-hour
of leaving the beach, reducing visibility to perhaps fifty yards.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Only the small waves showed that we were not on
the open ocean.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Only the wind and gps
enabled us to steer any kind of course.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;"><span style="font-size: small;">
</span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: 16pt;"></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;">Hearing
an approaching motor invisible in the fog, I suddenly wished I had my trusty
air horn or spot light off the big boat.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Stephen scrambled for the camping lantern, while I fumbled for my
whistle.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A runabout full of people
throttled down only a dozen yards away, and hailed us to know if we were
alright.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We thanked them for their
concern, and sailed on.</span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: 16pt;">
</span>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;">For
awhile I sailed confidently, expecting to hit the island pretty much dead-on
by-and-by.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But then doubt crept in.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Was Bumpkin <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">really</i> due north?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Suppose we
overshot and darkness came on?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There
would be little chance of landing in any predictable place in dark AND
fog.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>my little gps had only the crudest
of maps, not even showing a clearly recognizable coastline.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And the light was failing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Mind you, we were still in the confines of
Hingham Bay, so this was less a safety issue than a possible spoiled trip.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: 16pt;">
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<span style="font-size: small;">
</span></div>
</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;">After
staring at the child-like gps drawing of the coastline a little longer, I
decided to head west a little.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After a
bit, we headed north again.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Suddenly,
less than a hundred yards away, land loomed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>A moment later a man appeared, tending a beach fire in the twilight.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I hailed him: "Is this Bumpkin
Island?"<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>"Yes," he called
back.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Flood of relief.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<br />
<span style="font-size: 16pt;"></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;">In a
few minute more we had raised the dock, beached on the rocks, and went looking
for the ranger.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was almost 8pm, but
her little house was right by the dock and she was relaxing at her outdoor
table.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;"><span style="font-size: small;">
</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;">There
followed a rough hour or two as we unloaded the boat, carried everything up a
steep hill and along unfamiliar trails in the disorienting fog, and strove to
get the tents up and everything under cover as rain threatened.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Finding no beach worthy of the name, I gave
up hopes of keeping the boat ashore and anchored it a few yards off the rocky
shore in a few feet of water.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(We had
luckily towed the little plastic kayak, mainly because I knew Stephen would
like to go paddling at some point.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Now
it became our access to the anchored boat.)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>After a little soup, we dropped into bed exhausted.</span></span></div>
</div>
<span style="font-size: 16pt;">
</span>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;"></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;">Stephen
always prefers to sleep in his own tent, and so we always carry two.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But in the foggy night it appeared we had
lost one of the flies that make the tents rain-proof.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So we slept in the remaining tent for the
duration, which I rather enjoyed.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: 16pt;"><span style="font-size: small;">
</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;">We had
a lazy morning, and it was late when we went down to the dock to check the boat
and the ferry schedule.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The boat bumping
gently on rocks on a falling tide told of the anchor dragging.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After towing the boat out to re-anchoring in
deeper water, I joined Stephen is exploring the shoreline--he on foot, I in the
kayak. Then we returned in time to catch the ferry.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: 16pt;"><span style="font-size: small;">
</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;">The
ferry carried us to Peddocks Island (site of a miserable stay two summers ago),
then mainland Hull, and finally to Georges Island, our traditional day
trip.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We spend several hours exploring
Fort George in the fitful drizzle, walking the parade ground, visiting the prisoners'
and officers' quarters, exploring the bakery, and peering out the gun loops of
this historic fort cum prison cum fort.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Built during a defense build-up that followed the War of 1812, the exhibits
most evoked its time as a Civil War POW camp, though it was active in defending
Boston Harbor right up through World War I.</span></span></div>
</div>
<span style="font-size: 16pt;">
</span> </div>
<span style="font-size: 16pt;"></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;">We
caught the return ferry back to Bumpkin in mid-afternoon, lazed around camp
awhile, then walked to the western end of the island to watch the sunset and
see the lights of Boston Harbor.</span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: 16pt;"><span style="font-size: small;">
</span><span style="font-size: 14pt;">After
a fitful night's sleep, I rose shortly before dawn to watch the sun rise, and
then to go plant collecting in an effort to compile a flora for the
island.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This day would be the first
sunny day since we left Hingham Harbor.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After
breakfast we began to break camp.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In
packing the tents, I discovered the missing tent fly <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">under</i> the tent we had slept in.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Joy! we still had two good tents. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With everything packed up and stacked by the
side of the path, we had a nice lunch at a picnic table with a view of downtown
Boston.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;">I had
a clever idea for loading the boat: rather than pulling it up on the rocks and
wading everything to the boat, I got the ranger's permission to tie up to the
dock.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then we wheeled everything right
to the dock for a stress-free departure.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Except that the floating dock, sized for the ferry, was about four feet
above the water.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So as I hovered around
the boat in the kayak (maybe not the smartest move), Stephen lay on his stomach
and managed to pass items to me without (a) dropping them in the drink, or (b)
oversetting me in the kayak.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It took a
looong time and climaxed in Stephen's descending into the boat from that
height, but we finally raised sail and set off in a nice breeze.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
</div>
<span style="font-size: 16pt;">
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;"></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 16pt;"></span></div>
<span style="font-size: 16pt;"></span></div>
<span style="font-size: 16pt;"></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;">We
creamed along at nearly five knots, following the channel past the Hingham
yacht club, made the first dog-leg, missed the second, but managed to get a
across the shoals safely, and finally hit the beach in the early afternoon.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We were tired and a bit short-tempered as we
slogged through the sand with load after load of gear, but were home again well
before dark, a good trip ended.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: 16pt;"><span style="font-size: small;">
<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: 16pt;">
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<br /></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FjESYEdm_34/UjTJz7s8q2I/AAAAAAAAD4g/RWexgu-odsQ/s1600/P8280308.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FjESYEdm_34/UjTJz7s8q2I/AAAAAAAAD4g/RWexgu-odsQ/s400/P8280308.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Not a lot of room in an eleven-foot boat.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sZkGC6GCSGs/UjTJ2sQE10I/AAAAAAAAD4o/MJfTKg9aios/s1600/P8280310.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sZkGC6GCSGs/UjTJ2sQE10I/AAAAAAAAD4o/MJfTKg9aios/s400/P8280310.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Cloudscape.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oxlkQTSBYEs/UjTJ6IkxdGI/AAAAAAAAD4w/yTruR9QupF4/s1600/P8280311.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oxlkQTSBYEs/UjTJ6IkxdGI/AAAAAAAAD4w/yTruR9QupF4/s400/P8280311.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-swRVbh1w8WY/UjTKA5jBDNI/AAAAAAAAD44/CE8HsuKQkeU/s1600/P8280312.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-swRVbh1w8WY/UjTKA5jBDNI/AAAAAAAAD44/CE8HsuKQkeU/s400/P8280312.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Sun lowering over Hingham Harbor.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nmsqYwLw-0U/UjTKDC1JQYI/AAAAAAAAD5A/F2mvu3XKpJg/s1600/P8290315.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nmsqYwLw-0U/UjTKDC1JQYI/AAAAAAAAD5A/F2mvu3XKpJg/s400/P8290315.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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What duck?</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uuRl7IizrxM/UjTKNjnL-HI/AAAAAAAAD5I/0s_3FxJuXCM/s1600/P8290316.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uuRl7IizrxM/UjTKNjnL-HI/AAAAAAAAD5I/0s_3FxJuXCM/s400/P8290316.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>Bebe</i> at anchor, <i>Speedbump</i> on beach.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--CVCvjXuPXA/UjTKSDf5NAI/AAAAAAAAD5Q/51ClCBFC4us/s1600/P8290319.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--CVCvjXuPXA/UjTKSDf5NAI/AAAAAAAAD5Q/51ClCBFC4us/s400/P8290319.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Will tide go any lower? Bebe's delicate bottom wants to know!</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u0T9Z4Fe5mI/UjTLvPplOMI/AAAAAAAAD5c/QJo6FYroyNY/s1600/P8290321.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u0T9Z4Fe5mI/UjTLvPplOMI/AAAAAAAAD5c/QJo6FYroyNY/s400/P8290321.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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View from hilltop: Hingham Harbor in distance.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T97NGjnAvTI/UjTLyM1pKoI/AAAAAAAAD5k/iCF07goQKk4/s1600/P8290325.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T97NGjnAvTI/UjTLyM1pKoI/AAAAAAAAD5k/iCF07goQKk4/s400/P8290325.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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The east end of the island is covered with birds. (I thought cormorants, but too stocky for that.) Waves breaking on bar connecting island to nearby Spinnaker Island--a gated community.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QiO4IPX_94Q/UjTL9i1spyI/AAAAAAAAD5s/tOFXb1Vl15g/s1600/P8290328.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QiO4IPX_94Q/UjTL9i1spyI/AAAAAAAAD5s/tOFXb1Vl15g/s400/P8290328.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Exploring the shoreline.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JRdIo1mJz_I/UjTMFzVQtKI/AAAAAAAAD50/oz_bhXjbJRM/s1600/P8290330.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JRdIo1mJz_I/UjTMFzVQtKI/AAAAAAAAD50/oz_bhXjbJRM/s400/P8290330.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Birds scared off; Spinnaker Island's wall-to-wall condos.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Me9ht4vfA_g/UjTMJXfxlxI/AAAAAAAAD58/XS6Qjfj_-_E/s1600/P8290332.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Me9ht4vfA_g/UjTMJXfxlxI/AAAAAAAAD58/XS6Qjfj_-_E/s400/P8290332.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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In Hull, I admired <i>Halcyon</i>, which seemed ready to put to sea.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dY493tWnlNI/UjTMQlX1ZjI/AAAAAAAAD6E/UVWfTfVkMLw/s1600/P8290333.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dY493tWnlNI/UjTMQlX1ZjI/AAAAAAAAD6E/UVWfTfVkMLw/s400/P8290333.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Fort Warren; old gun emplacements to left, newer watch tower at right.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QPTno-1-1uk/UjTMXrdjk1I/AAAAAAAAD6M/_GTwWHggmbM/s1600/P8290334.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QPTno-1-1uk/UjTMXrdjk1I/AAAAAAAAD6M/_GTwWHggmbM/s400/P8290334.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Fort Warren is pretty big.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-i6T4RCPXrQA/UjTMhpSsFzI/AAAAAAAAD6U/R1cIlYsWUb0/s1600/P8290335.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-i6T4RCPXrQA/UjTMhpSsFzI/AAAAAAAAD6U/R1cIlYsWUb0/s400/P8290335.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Our campsite.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bEA_RUt7RE4/UjTMoMMRDgI/AAAAAAAAD6c/Mak-nfIF-8s/s1600/P8300341.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bEA_RUt7RE4/UjTMoMMRDgI/AAAAAAAAD6c/Mak-nfIF-8s/s400/P8300341.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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On a dawn stroll, I scared up a flock of turkeys. The young emerged one at a time from the marsh grass to join their impatient elders as I approached.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fVWFYgX7O0o/UjTMvwA-M1I/AAAAAAAAD6k/ojpk4mDBc9k/s1600/P8300347.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fVWFYgX7O0o/UjTMvwA-M1I/AAAAAAAAD6k/ojpk4mDBc9k/s400/P8300347.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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The whole gang finally gathered, the flock (upper center) begins to disappear into the bushes at my approach.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ox7LVoYM9Go/UjTM4gGGuJI/AAAAAAAAD6s/4ZPKSpLxnqU/s1600/P8300350.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ox7LVoYM9Go/UjTM4gGGuJI/AAAAAAAAD6s/4ZPKSpLxnqU/s400/P8300350.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Philanthropist Albert Burrage built a children's hospital here about 1900, which was loaned to the military during WWI, and burned down in 1945.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mOU1-lphnPw/UjTNBKHUZ0I/AAAAAAAAD60/0Dtq4vt0BMk/s1600/P8300354.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mOU1-lphnPw/UjTNBKHUZ0I/AAAAAAAAD60/0Dtq4vt0BMk/s400/P8300354.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Staghorn sumac, a small, fast-growing tree, dominates the island; I had never seen one this big.</div>
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A picnic table near the west end of the island gives this view of downtown Boston.</div>
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Among the many turkeys is on olster that is lame.</div>
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Slate and Grape Islands in the middle distance. We have camped on Grape twice.</div>
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WWI mess hall reputedly could seat 1,800.</div>
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This house & stable dates from the early 19th century when the island was let to tenant farmers.</div>
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This beautiful lichen might be <span style="font-family: "Corbel","sans-serif"; font-size: 13pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Rod; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"><i>Xanthoria parietina.</i></span></div>
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Some trees were clearly planted, including many apple trees with good fruit, and this white birch (<i>Betula papyrifera</i>).</div>
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Our last lunch, and the view of downtown Boston from it.</div>
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Jeffrey Michals-Brownhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875231268940338643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454505000240746883.post-50013890417106170612013-08-31T19:16:00.001-04:002014-04-30T10:24:39.370-04:00A Week at Ponkapoag<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Corbel; font-size: medium;">We used to walk the four-and-a-half mile trail around Ponkapoag Pond
in the Blue Hills years ago when the kids were very young.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One stretch of the trail took us by
cozy-looking cabins--some right by the water--but it never occurred to me to
investigate further. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We'd since gotten
away from walking as a family.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Corbel; font-size: medium;">I rediscovered the AMC Ponkapoag Camp when Stephen
and I worked there at pulling invasive garlic mustard as part of his service as
a Boy Scout.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was newly impressed by
the beauty and the diversity of plant life (spice bush <i>Lindera benzoin</i> everywhere), even having a first memorable encounter with
stinging nettle, and the desire gradually grew in me to stay there.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The cost was very reasonable, a bit of money
available, and so we put in for a week in late August.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Corbel; font-size: medium;">I, two boys, the dogs and a carload of stuff made the 25-minute
inaugural trip on Sunday afternoon, while Bea stayed home to make our
traditional "moveable feast" to eat with my parents.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Our little, loving Jekyll dogs become
ravening, vicious Hydes when they encounter other dogs, so we were doubtful
they would be able to spend the week, but it turned out that others dogs were
also sometimes imperfect, so ours didn't stand out that much and were able to
stay.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After a nice evening with my parents, we
loaded up the car again, three kayaks on the roof, and returned to stay at nearly
midnight.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Corbel; font-size: medium;">The cabin was fairly old, and redolent of wood smoke from the
stove in the corner.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was divided into
a large room with two sets of bunk-beds and a sort of trundle double-bed, with
a drop-leaf table and dresser.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was
clearly ready for long-term occupation in all seasons.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the entry led into a smaller room, with such
large, screened windows that it was almost a screen porch.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This had an old formica-topped kitchen table,
dry sink, shelves, and another smaller dresser.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Bea loved it, and spent time arraying our belongings properly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Outside was a dusty yard with a picnic table
where we set up the propane stove.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Corbel; font-size: medium;">Staying there would be roughing it, except for our boating experience: there is no running water, and everything carried in must be carried out. The only hard things were sleeping in unaccustomed beds (often making for late mornings), and using the communal pit
toilets that--at season's end--could gag a vulture.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Corbel; font-size: medium;">The camp turns out to be a community in itself, with members
who return year after year, sometimes continuing into a new generation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One man I fell into conversation with
remarked that he liked the cabins near the common area because all the adults
would keep an eye on the young children, but the more secluded at the periphery
for peace and quiet when they were older.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>(Ours, by good luck, turned out to be one of the more secluded.)</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: Corbel;">I spent the days orienting myself to the flora and landscape
nearby, hiking, kayaking, and reading Thoreau' journal and thinking about his
ideas.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the last few days I make a
little display of the pond's water plants with their names for any who were
interested, and a printed flora of the camp area for the Nature Center.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(I didn't ask before doing these--they may
have been unwanted.) <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The boys came
hiking a couple of times, and spent some time wandering about in kayaks under
my shore-side supervision (shady chair dockside, book in hand), swam a bit, and
lay in their beds reading a lot.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bea,
who had already taken vacation time to visit with family in New Orleans, left
most mornings, but always returned with supplies and made very nice suppers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She was delighted to be among the trees, and pleased
also to plan menus and make good meals.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> We had visitors twice: a friend of Stephen's stayed one night, and Beatrice's best friend came for a few hours and went hiking and kayaking with her.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: Corbel;">When we left on Saturday, I spent a good hour wandering
among the two-dozen-odd cabins scattered over the hill and waterfront, noting
(among those large enough for our family) which were more secluded, which were
close to the water (both important to me), and which had ready access to the outhouses
(crucial to Bea).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> A plan for a </span>week at Ponkapoag
next summer was an unspoken understanding between us.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Corbel; font-size: medium;"></span><br />
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Our cabin was named Marion.</div>
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All moved in.</div>
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I had only <i>heard</i> of dry sinks before this.</div>
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Finishing touch.</div>
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Beatrice is pleased.</div>
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Golda and Linkin feel at home wherever their bowls are.</div>
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Lunch time.</div>
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Our neighborhood isn't too crowded.</div>
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Although mostly on a level, our round-the-pond hike took us near some pretty big rocks. I'm guessing bedrock rather than a glacial erratic, judging from its size. I didn't think to see if it aligned with other rock in the area. (I did confirm probable glacial striations right in the camp, though!)</div>
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One side of the pond is graced by an atlantic white cedar bog. A boardwalk is maintained through this bog that is about a quarter-mile long.</div>
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Vegetation changes as you go, passing through bands dominated by different plants. The trees here are atlantic white cedar, the low shrubs mostly leatherleaf, all growing in a foundation of sphagnum. </div>
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the white pom poms mark the plant bog cotton.</div>
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Golda. The day was warm and humid, the trail long for short legs, the boardwalk strange, and both dogs eventually began to wish themselves elsewhere. In quest of a drink, Linkin fell in.</div>
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The cranberries weren't ripe, but that didn' prevent a taste or two.</div>
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One highlight was the insectivorous Pitcher Plant (<i>Saracenia purpurea</i>) Stephen spotted. Two open leaves (green with red veins) from the same plant have emerged from the sphagnum. Sundews (<i>Drosera rotundifolia</i>) were visible in several places.</div>
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the boardwalk ends at the edge of open water. The Camp is perhaps half-a-mile across the pond in the dark woods on the left.</div>
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We noted these strange growths over and over on our hike--always on black oaks.</div>
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A new dam has been constructed since last we walked around the pond--long ago, considering the date on the bridge.</div>
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View from the causeway beyond the dam. Linkin's tail is back up: he knows we're nearing home.</div>
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Stephen explores in <i>Speedbump</i>. Great Blue Hill stainds in the distance above.</div>
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One of at least two families of canada geese have been rearing their young on the pond.</div>
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Trevor is in the blue skin-on-frame boat, <i>Musketaquid</i>.</div>
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Boater's Botany: white pond lily (<i>Nymphaea odorata</i>) has floating leaves almost round, and second in size around here only to yellow pond lily (<i>Nuphar advena</i>). Above center is the unrelated insectivorous Bladderwort (<i>Utricularia inflata). </i>Each little yellow flower is supported by an asterisk of inflated white leaves.</div>
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Boater's Botany: Water Shield (<i>Brassenia shreberi</i>) is distinguished by its oval double-ended leaves with the leaf stem attached in the middle of the blade.</div>
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Boater's Botany: there are two species of plants in the pond that look like giant underwater pipe cleaners. This one is Fanwort (Cabomba caroliniana), marked by leaves that divide by twos, spindle-shaped upper leaves, and white flowers with yellow centers. The other, Water Milfoil (<i>Myriophyllum sp</i>.) has leaves with a clear midvein, and tiny inconspicuous flowers in spikes. </div>
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This little island is sedimentary rock standing almost on end--like that in the camp near the outhouses. Fairly deep, broad parallel grooves cross the surface of the latter at a significant angle to the bedding planes; these were likely made when glaciers with imbedded rocks ground over them upwards of 12,000 years ago. In all that time, these marks have not completely worn away.</div>
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On his first time out, Stephen's friend Brandon rode in <i>Serendipity</i> with Stephen, while I rode herd in Speedbump. After that the boys were allowed to go without me, provided they stayed within bounds.</div>
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On Rebecca's visit, she was obliged to paddle <i>Musketaquid</i>, since her church's youth program was partly responsible for its construction, while Bea took her first solo paddle in <i>Serendipity</i>.</div>
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Rebecca quickly became comfortable. </div>
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Beatrice allowed she might be able to see the attraction of kayaking.</div>
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On the last full day, Golda and Linkin agreed to come for a ride. Linkin made himself comfortable up forward with Stephen--his paws on the foredeck to get a better view. Golda here rode aft with me.</div>
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An odious and over-familiar squirrel, not sufficiently amused with beaning me from above with acorn shells as I sat at the table, came down and stole the orange plastic knife Trevor had made his pb&j with. We eventually recovered it.</div>
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Our last supper at the camp. </div>
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After that we had a little fire and roasted marshmellows. Stephen tended it. </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">On the last morning, I took Thoreau at his word--"Only that day dawns to which we are awake"--rose at first light, and spent an hour or so walking the wooods alone. Happening on a scene I thought told a story, I tried my hand at writing about it the way I thought Thoreau might have. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: Corbel;">In an open woodland of oak and
pine, a dead tree leans on a live tree.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The two form with the ground an isosceles right triangle, the live tree
and the ground forming the right angle, the dead tree, fallen from twenty feet
away and landed neatly in a crotch of the living tree twenty feet up, the
hypotenuse.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>-or not really <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">neatly</i>, since the dead tree shed rotten branches
as it struck, which now form a sort of giant squirrel's nest where the two
trees come together.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: Corbel;">What happened here?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The living tree is a black oak, tall and
straight with the high and narrow crown of a forest-grown tree, its only flaws
the vulnerable crotch, a small dead sprout at its base, and a small dead limb in its
crown.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>From its state of decay and that
of its branches, the other was long dead before its fall, so of unknown
species, and a little bigger than the one-foot diameter of the black
oak.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Perhaps the dead tree got its start
a few years or a decade before the living, or perhaps the two were age mates,
even siblings, the dead tree's slightly greater and earlier girth the result of
a sunnier location, or a little more moisture.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>What killed the one?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Not age, but
some ill fortune--an infestation of caterpillars or a fungus borne by insects
burrowing into its wood, a drought.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Perhaps it died
when struck by an earlier dead-fallen tree now long vanished into soil.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Corbel; font-size: medium;">How will events fall now?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Certainly the dead tree has damaged the
slender forked oak, and that in a singular stroke of bad luck: the forking stems
so narrow that a matter of a few degrees either way in the fall would meant a
complete miss.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Perhaps the falling tree
was so decayed that it did little damage.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Or perhaps even so the rotting wood provides habitat to a fungal or
insect invader.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Moreover, yet another
dead tree, somewhat smaller, stands at a similar distance, and inclines a
little toward the burdened oak.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Might
lightning strike twice?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Indeed standing
dead trees are not uncommon in the wood.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Of course, the tall tree might equally <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">benefit</i> from the deaths of neighbors--if they stand southerly,
the openings they create allowing more sunlight to feed the tree.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Every forest is indeed a slow race, with the
prize of vital sunlight to the tree that can keep its crown above its shading
neighbors.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But the future is never secure,
and with the vagaries of chance even the most virtuous may succumb before their
time.</span></div>
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Jeffrey Michals-Brownhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875231268940338643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454505000240746883.post-80917325198880519862013-04-23T22:15:00.000-04:002014-04-30T10:25:57.932-04:00To Hog Island in Surprise<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo_Rh5aYC7vY6kxnra1uUFW6JboP6IXcb9PfGpOn1XYMXdqk9j00HM_eupVUz0m52IZOfgawD7ZjDxX0jdXDNIVMlNMNJBotMPXshKwh92t181geyT1R-oDyHAccVvKcY0jnmXizzc1xw7/s1600/Hog+Island.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo_Rh5aYC7vY6kxnra1uUFW6JboP6IXcb9PfGpOn1XYMXdqk9j00HM_eupVUz0m52IZOfgawD7ZjDxX0jdXDNIVMlNMNJBotMPXshKwh92t181geyT1R-oDyHAccVvKcY0jnmXizzc1xw7/s640/Hog+Island.jpg" height="334" width="640" /></a></div>
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Hog Island. Bristol Harbor is just north, the Mount Hope Bridge on east edge of image. Vertical bar is 0.5 nautical miles.</div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">Hog Island is a summer colony of less than half a square mile just south of the mouth of Bristol Harbor, RI. Site of a teenage adventure in my Sunfish sailing youth, I had touched there only once, and briefly, as an adult sailor. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">Thursday,
April 18, 2013<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">Complicated
dance of vehicles began when I traded Bea's minivan for the Kiss family truck
at 10am.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Not actually ready to go until
3pm*. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Got lost in tangle of new ramps
for rt 6 bridge and ended up all over the place before finally reaching boat
ramp at 4pm.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Boat at anchor inside 45
minutes, then return to again trade vehicles, and hitch lift with Bea for
return to ramp at 6pm.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> Since we did not mess with the truck's radio, we only heard about the Boston Marathon bombing then. (Without a radio aboard, we would hear no more until returning home.)</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">Not wanting
to sail at night, resulting in the usual risks plus the usual bleary-eyed day
following, decided to stay put until early am.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Dinner was Bea's leftover chicken--umm!--but eaten without silverware or
proper dishes by slurping it from coffee cups.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>*(See: we weren't ready to go after all.)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Slept soundly until after 5am, then rose to
have a bit of tea, juice and toast before getting under way before 7am.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">The
original plan was to be safely at Hog Island before predicted high and gusty
winds Tuesday. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Since these were not to
begin until noonish, I figured the 7nm sail could be safely accomplished well
before noon.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If we were in danger of
being caught out, we could seek alternative shelter.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As it was, the morning went smoothly with
light to moderate and fair winds the whole way--the entire trip was
accomplished on a single starboard tack to a se wind.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">Wind
and sea began rising a bit toward the end, and we were glad to come into the
lee of the southeast corner of the island about 9:30am.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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ashore at last</div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">My
anchoring plan involved dropping the big anchor off the stern close to shore,
beaching before running out of rode, and putting the little danforth in the
beach so we could move around dry-shod.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It turned out to be considerably more complicated: we could not sail close
enough to the wind with leeboard partly raised to hit shore where I wanted, and
we dropped the big claw prematurely.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>With all 100 feet of rode out, and additional rode on the danforth, I
tried unsuccessfully to bring the danforth ashore in the kayak. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Since the wind was off the beach, I next had
Stephen shorten the scope on the claw to bring the boat closer that way.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the end, I was only 10 yards or so short,
and tried to tow the big boat the remaining yards to no avail--just when I'd
appear to be making progress, the wind would pick up and drag us backwards.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">Back
aboard, I decided to raise the anchor and try to pole the boat in approximately
the right direction, then pull the boat around the shoreline to the point I'd
been aiming at.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Poling didn't get us
far, but we did end up ashore, and I was able to situate the boat with the
anchor safely in water deep enough that low tide wouldn't expose it, but well
within reach of the little danforth's rode.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We pinned the boat to shore, had sandwiches for lunch (it was now past
11:30), pushed the boat back into the water, and set off to explore.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Egret</div>
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I took these for ducks, but now I think their small geese called brants.</div>
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There was at least one pair of egrets--we spotted pairs several times but can't say they weren't the same pair</div>
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The south shore</div>
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Stephen looks over the salt marsh.</div>
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A very pretty rock. Sandstone? But the large clasts are very angular--not water-worn at all. Maybe breccia??</div>
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The west coast looking north. These clouds were different from any I ever recall: very indistinct, and seeming out-of-focus.</div>
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The west coast looking south.</div>
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The northwest coast has a shallow little cove defended by a spit that is partly submerged at high tide. A pair of oyster catchers is trying to escape us on foot by wading to another of the little islets.</div>
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This is a cropped enlargement--they were skittish, and we never got close to them.</div>
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Painted on the rudders is "Hog Island."</div>
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A cute cottage, maybe no more than two rooms.</div>
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Another angle on the same cottage.</div>
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This big house at first looked damaged, full of holes.</div>
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The house turns out to be a large boathouse with upper story and wrap-around porch.</div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">The
island is about 2 1/2 miles around with about 100 homes and almost no
year-round inhabitants--perfect for an April exploration, I thought.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Most houses were still boarded up, but not
all, and we ran into one resident with a dog, and at least one more who watched
us through his window.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We tried to keep
to the shore, but sometimes had to venture inland to find dryer passage through
salt marsh, or clamber under or over docks.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The houses were varied, from trailers to little cottages to spacious
homes to one biggish estate.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We spotted
several birds worth noting, including oyster catchers, at least one egret pair,
ducks I'm still trying to identify, but are most likely brants, and great
black-backed gulls.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We caught a brief
glimpse of what might have been a piping plover.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>More than one set of deer tracks led past our
beach when we returned.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They appeared to
come from the little peninsula behind which we were sheltered and not to
return.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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The island is shot-through with ditches dug in an effort at mosquito control.</div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">Back
aboard at about 2:30, I snacked a bit on tea and cookies, then we sat around
and read and napped.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The wind had been
wearying, and we were content to be out of it, with the front door and front
slot cover in place.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We could safely
ground the boat now, without worrying about becoming stuck for very long.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Stephen watches comb jellies in the shallows.</div>
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Nap time. (There's a twelve-year-old boy under there somewhere.)</div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">Only
after 5pm did I venture forth again--well-wrapped up in my ski pants, sweater
and fleece--to look around, and to seek out a place out of the wind where I
could unfold a chair and relax and enjoy the ever-changing sky.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sprinkles of a shower sent me back to call
Stephen to pull a drying sleeping bag back into boat.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then Stephen suited-up and </span><span style="font-size: 16pt;">joined
me for a ramble that ended with us trying to track the deer back to their lair
amid the brush and a single tree on the peninsula.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We didn't find any sign of habitation, but it
had some pretty bits that made the exploration worthwhile.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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A panorama across the little peninsula that shelters our anchorage, looking toward the "mainland."</div>
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Another panorama looking the other way, the Mt. Hope Bridge in the distance.</div>
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Looking for deer on the peninsula. Didn't find any sign.</div>
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High drifts of shells above the high tide mark were partly sorted by species. The darker shells are mussels, the rest are mostly slipper limpets, which are by far the most abundant.</div>
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Suppertime. We supplied ourselves with mussel shell spoons for our stew.</div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">We
were back aboard around 7pm as darkness fell for a dinner of canned stew and buttered
bread--this time eaten with the help of mussel shell spoons-- then Stephen
turned in by 9pm, while I stayed up to read until 10.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">I was
awakened by sudden movement and noise at midnight: the boat was afloat and
moving off sideways on shifted wind.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
checked the little danforth, worried at the strain, only to find it had dragged
and gathered a ton of weed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I got it
mostly clean and aboard, then shortened scope of big anchor from 70 to about
60ft.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The anchorage was noisy with less
protection from nw, so I put in earplugs, but didn't sleep very soundly
afterwards.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">Wednesday
4/17<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Stephen is straightening up the boat in preparation for departure.</div>
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Under way once more. The bridge beckons.</div>
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The clouds are fantastic.</div>
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Happy skipper.</div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">Woke
several times during the night including about 5am, then got up around 7:20.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">Underway
at 9:30, after difficulty getting out of our shallow, protected anchorage soon
after low tide.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">Wind
shifty and very light, amounting to becalming, for about an hour around
10-11am.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then variable again around
Braga Bridge.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Touched dock and dropped
off Stephen at about 2:40 (which would have been picture-perfect if not for
fouling the towed kayak on the dock in the process), dropped anchor and got
ashore myself about 15 minutes later.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bea
came with the car at 3:45 and picked us up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We returned with the truck just about 5:30 and pulled the boat up the
ramp at 6pm.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We headed home at 6:45, but
had to return for the forgotten kayak, and got home about 8pm.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Riding at anchor near the ramp, waiting for the trailer.</div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">Performance
notes:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">The
mizzen handled nicely, but made no recognizable impact on sailing
qualities.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Did not fairly test its
usefulness as a riding sail, but I'm sure it could not have held the boat into
the wind the way a tightly-sheeted-in mizzen on the Beatrice Ann can.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The ropes around the cabin for holding
clothing, etc were very successful.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
was troubled by my inability to even ghost along in a breeze that was enough to move
the sail, but that I could not orient the sail to make use of.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
</div>
Jeffrey Michals-Brownhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875231268940338643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454505000240746883.post-55397804168622137492013-01-12T23:18:00.000-05:002013-01-12T23:23:41.618-05:00Christmas in El Paso<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Been quiet here, I know. Off-season. So no appologies for a non-boat post: our Christmas trip to El Paso, TX.<br />
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Every Christmas morning for our whole married life, Bea and I have gotten on a plane to gather with Bea's parents, sisters and brothers, and other family and friends--a close-knit group. This year--Bea's sister being unable to get away from her position as an over-worked librarian--we were of course invited to descend upon her and her family's comfortable home in El Paso. <br />
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Gathered in the home of our hosts, Mary Helen and Art and their son Owen, were us and our three boys, Teresa and Robert and their two kids, and the Pater and Mater Familias, Ed and Vivian. Brother Ed and his wife Sheryl, and brother Chris and his wife Glenda couldn't get away.<br />
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Although these gatherings are mainly about family, full of lazy mornings around the coffee pot and evenings of good food and talk and laughter, we do get outside from time to time. Besides wandering the small arroyo near their home, we got to walk in the Franklin moountains for a few hours one day, to take a cable car ride to the top another, and to walk in an improbable wetland beside the Rio Grande on another. We also ate several nice restuarant meals in addition to the fine fare served by our hosts.<br />
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El Paso in west Texas is well into the Chihuahuan Desert--the largest desert in North America, though most of it is across the border in Mexico. Approaching by air, it presents a landscape radically different from my native New England: the landscape is pale brown dotted with green--a substrate-dominated landscape. Rainfall is scanty, averaging perhaps two inches per month in the summer "rainy season." Since this rainfall entirely evaporates rather than sinking into a water table, it leaves a crusty, calcareous "caliche" that forms a weakly-cemented layer in the pale, rocky alkaline soil. Amazing that anything can grow in it.<br />
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Yucca.</div>
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Agave lechugilla.</div>
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Prickly pear and the strange, gangly ocotillo.</div>
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Sotol, besides being handsome, is an unusually benign plant: the leaves, although sharply-toothed, do NOT end in two-inch daggers</div>
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What does grow is plants that are no friend to the hiker: nearly every one is well-defended by spines or thorns or spiky leaves. Running into a Jumping Cholla cactus or falling into a dagger-leaved Yucca or Agave could mean a trip to the doctor. The wildlife runs from Black-tailed Jackrabbits as big as small dogs, to scorpions and tarantulas. It takes a certain amount of caution to adventure here safely!<br />
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If this isn't exciting enough, El Paso is on the Mexican border, with the city of Juarez--infamous as an epicenter of the wars between drug lords with a murder rate to match. Fortunately for us, though not for the victims in Juarez, the border here is very secure. <br />
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Relaxing after a wonderful Christmas dinner.</div>
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Gift-giving time.</div>
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Trevor opens his gift while Mary Helen and Art look on.</div>
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The ceremonial Destruction of the Gingerbread House, an annual event.</div>
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Teresa and Robert ice skating.</div>
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Bea and Teresa hiking in the Franklins.</div>
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The valley we've walked up.</div>
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The gang's all here.</div>
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Rest stop. Lechugilla in foreground, ocotillo upper left.</div>
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Panoramic view from the upper slope.</div>
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Myself. Creosote bush all around--the most common shrub in American deserts, and a favorite of mine.</div>
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Wetland park close to the Rio Grande. The park has been suffering declining water, so effluent is being diverted from the sewage treatment plant.</div>
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The park is alive with ducks.</div>
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Tumbleweed, an alien invasive from Asia, is a problem here.</div>
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The park borders the Border. We attracted the attention of a border patrol helicopter merely by being in the park.</div>
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Don't know what this is, but it's pretty.</div>
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Wyler Aerial Tramway.</div>
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Views from the top are pretty spectacular.</div>
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Strata of the mountains dip at about 45 degrees.</div>
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Too cold and windy at the top to stand still long.</div>
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Arroyo Park (level area in center) from the top of the mountain.</div>
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In the Arroyo.</div>
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Gully in the arroyo.</div>
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Root system made visible in side of gully; also evidence of flood deposition of at least 4 layers of sediment. (Each layer begins with rocks, then grades upward into finer particles.)</div>
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Jeffrey Michals-Brownhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875231268940338643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454505000240746883.post-23887996902586905422012-11-02T23:18:00.000-04:002012-11-02T23:18:19.834-04:00November in Nippenicket<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Paddled </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">the new skin kayak in Lake Nippenicket for a couple of hours late this afternoon. The sky was overcast and in the 50s and it showered lightly a few times. I bundled up in two fleeces and hat and waterproof jacket. For comfort, I brought fabric to keep paddle drips out of my lap, and warm slippers to slip my bare feet into after I set out. It was a pretty successful outfit. I do need to get a</span> <span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">real cockpit cover to keep myself drier, though.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">Island</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">Cove with marsh in distance</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Since I've spent quite a bit of time in the southern coves this year, I decided to go straight to the north end. I left the ramp at the se end about 4pm and paddled west of the big island. Tooke a photo of the island, and the cove ne of it. A flight of birds--geese, I think--were passing in the distant marsh behind the cove but did not photograph.</span> <br />
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Phragmites is an odd grass: world-wide distribution, yet recently increasing and taking over cattail marshes--maybe due to an imported European variety.</div>
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The cattail marsh is thin, but covers more area than the Phragmites</div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I spent a little time visiting a big stand of invasive Phragmites at the north end, and was cheered to discover cattail marsh of even greater extent west of it. A little spit protruding from the marsh caught my eye since it had a little stand of trees. It turned out to have been constructed or "improved" by some sort of cement work. I have no idea what it was or why it was there--seeming the middle of nowhere. The curving cement wall or path is clearly visible in Google Earth, but there is no sign of any path through the marsh behind it--supposing the marsh to be firm enough in places for walking.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I visited the wooded northwest end briefly before turning for home, arriving back at the ramp about 5:45</span>.</div>
Jeffrey Michals-Brownhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875231268940338643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454505000240746883.post-12887608042551218842012-09-10T21:53:00.002-04:002014-04-30T10:30:13.072-04:00Annual Camping Trip in Boston Harbor Islands<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">I was
determined to get the boat upgrades done, and so worked on the wiring 'til the
wee hours on Tuesday, spending some of the time scrunched in the cockpit
installing wiring for the motor.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As a
result, my left shoulder hurt and I got even less sleep than you'd expect, and
I didn't begin packing the boat to go until the day of departure.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> Every big trip I vow to be packed so as to leave early and well-rested, and every trip I do something like this. </span>And the lights don't even work!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<i>Beatrice Ann</i>, ready to launch.<br />
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">We got
off from Hingham in the middle of the afternoon, wove our way out the channel
(because we could), and, with a fair but light wind, went ashore on Grape
Island at 7:30pm.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(We'd have been ashore
earlier, but I spent time reeling out anchor rode in an effort to get ashore
dry-shod--a maneuver made more difficult with wind and current at an angle to
each other.)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Leaving Stephen to keep the
boat afloat on a falling tide, I went and found a ranger and got a cart to haul
our gear.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At 7:45 I found Stephen with
the boat hard aground.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To be fair, the
bottom at that point was nearly level, so Stephen would have been hard-pressed
to keep her afloat.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Stephen chose site
5--the same as two years ago--and we raced to get all the gear to camp and the
tents pitched while we could still see.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We ate our soup in darkness and went to our separate tents for the
evening.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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Leaving Hingham Yacht Club astern.</div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">We
rose about 8am and breakfasted on oatmeal and croissants, coffee and
juice.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A leisurely wander found<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the boat still (or, rather, again) hard
aground, so I relocated the anchor and shortened the rode before we set out by
water taxi for Georges Island and its 19th century Fort Warren.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Water taxi leaving Grape. Our boat is the speck grounded behind the bar in the center distance.</div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">This
time I remembered to bring headlamps so we could explore the fort's darker
corners to our hearts' content.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Since
this was our third year visiting as part of a Harbor Islands camping trip, we
didn't feel compelled to see everything, but time in the visitor's center
did<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>remind Stephen of the two Civil War
bounty jumpers imprisoned and executed there--shot by a firing squad while
standing beside their coffins--which sparked a conversation about capital
punishment.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Stephen is generally against
it, but had to admit that President Lincoln, also against it, needed to make an
example of them.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Stephen is twelve, and
feels these issues pretty deeply.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Lovells Island, seen from inside a watchtower in Fort Warren.</div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">Finished
with Georges after a modest lunch (that snack bar REALLY needs competition!--we
decided to take a different water taxi to Lovells Island.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was interested to see how its camp sites
were arranged and how easy it would be to anchor safely in the event we decided
to visit in the future.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This taxi
dropped us there before 2pm, and we spent the next hour and a half
circumnavigating the island.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We explored
ruins and wondered about the tumble of granite blocks that lined the outer
beach.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We also got ourselves in a bit of
a fix trying to get around a cement foundation that had fallen from the bluff
above to block our progress.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In making
our way carefully around these enormous chucks of concrete, we found ourselves
between tangles of reinforcing iron projecting from the concrete and deeper
water than we felt comfortable wading.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Negotiating it without injury, we faced another obstacle: the next water
taxi back to George would be too late to catch a ride on the original taxi back
to Grape.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When I realized this in
studying the schedule, a helpful ranger called the taxi company and got an
agreement for the last taxi to drop us at Grape on the way back to their
night-time dock in Hingham.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(On that
final trip, we discovered we were not alone: three other couples came to Grape
with us.)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Captain and crew of water taxi that graciously took us home.</div>
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Stephen likes to ride up front.</div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">Back
on Grape about 4pm, I was able to get out to the boat--now well afloat on high
tide--and fire up the electric motor for a move to a nearer and more convenient
anchorage.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dropping the hook in about 8
feet of water, I calculated that the boat would still have a foot or two of
water under her at low, but still be in reach of shore.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Low-grade slate that got my attention on Grape. (I shouldn't have told Stephen to smile.)</div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">I
spent the late afternoon exploring the slaty rock that stands vertically on the
western shore, and collect common periwinkle shells for future school use.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We ate a dinner of soup and bread while it
was still daylight, then retreated into tents once fully dark.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Stephen loves to read in bed--same as at home.</div>
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Morning. Breakfast is cooking.</div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">Stephen
slept late <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>waking to another leisurely
breakfast.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We both explored a bit more,
and then began breaking camp about 9:30am for 11am check-out.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The campsite was clean by shortly after 11,
and the loading of the boat was fairly smooth owing to better organization than
on earlier trips.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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"Buzzing" the dock at Grape as we depart.</div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">We had
discussed possible activities for our last day, and decided to sail.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Stephen thought he might like to visit
Nantasket Beach, while I wanted to sail into Boston proper.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We decided to try both, and set out for
northward with a fair but light wind.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Stephen sailed us off the anchor, but was happy to return to his
favorite spot on the foredeck once I was back in the cockpit.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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Unexpected encounter with a (diesel) side-wheeler under Long Island Bridge.</div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">We
sailed gently under the Long Island bridge and into Dorchester Bay, then past
Spectacle Island to starboard and seeing the beloved Corita gas tank far away
to port.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Once past Spectacle, we were in
Boston Harbor proper, sailing past the entrance to the inner harbor, flanked by
Castle Island and Logan International Airport, among shipping great and
small.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We had taken a long time to get
this far; it was long after noon and a long sail home, and going into the inner
harbor would have meant tacking out amid shipping large and small--clearly not
an option.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So I decided to close the
loop by going outside Long Island (President Roads), down the Nubble Channel,
and back into Hingham Bay via Hull Gut.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It would give us more bang for the buck, and was only a little longer, I
decided, than doubling back.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">After
a look and photos, we began working upwind in President Roads in light air,
dodging first an incoming integrated tug-and-barge, then the general cargo
vessel Arctic Blizzard, and later a cruise ship.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Arctic Blizzard, lightly-loaded and
showing much bottom paint and half her bow bulb, made her stately way past
us.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Soon after, a smaller motor vessel
with "PILOT" emblazoned on the side zoomed to her starboard side,
looped around, and then came back.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
wondered whether she was picking up a pilot who had gotten the big ship out of
the inner harbor, or was dropping off one who would get her out of Boston
entirely.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The big ship remained
stationary, and passing her we discovered she was riding from her starboard
anchor.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A metal stair wend down her
side about halfway to the water, and a rope ladder went the rest of the way:
seeming to me a scary climb.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She
remained in that position for as long as we could see her.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Fireboat.</div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">Stephen
and his sharp eyes spotted the fireboats first: looking like they were ready
for a parade someone had forgotten to hold, they came out of the inner harbor
with all water guns spraying.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A few
minutes later they passed us--water thankfully turned off.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>What could the fuss have been all about?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Norwegian Dawn.</div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">Later,
as we approached the end of Deer Island and its spacy-looking sewage treatment
plant, a police boat suddenly drew up and told us a cruise ship was coming and
we should stay to the Deer Island side of the channel.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After my "ok" sign it jetted away
to warn the next boater.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Meanwhile I
turned to look.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It's hard to believe I
could miss a big cruise ship speeding toward us, but so it was.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Only a few minutes later the Norwegian Dawn
steamed past in a blaze of bright colors and incongruous artwork.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Perhaps the fireboats had been a send-off for
her.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Passing Fort Warren.</div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">After
much light, fluky and sometimes non-existent wind and a foul current, we
finally worked past Long Island as the wind shifted again and strengthened a
bit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>From then on, my main worry was
getting into Hingham before full dark, since the lights didn't work.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We sailed slowly south past Gallops Island
and our old friend Georges, and approached Hull Gut just after 6pm.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hull Gut has some of the strongest tidal
current in the area, but I figured to beat the ebb since the moon was first
quarter and high tide had only been an hour or so ago.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But entering the Gut I watched our speed drop
from 3kt to 2 to 1.5 and finally to 1.2kt.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>After a tense few minutes more it was clear we'd made it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">Now we
had only to cross Hingham Bay to get to our ramp.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But as we approached the entrance to the
harbor the sun set at last and the wind--now mostly foul--began to die away for
good and all.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The tide was getting low
enough for it to be risky to ignore the channel.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was time to start the motor.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">We
powered along cheerfully for awhile, sails still drawing most of the time,
convincing me we were drawing little current.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We followed the coarse laid into the gps for an earlier trip when I
thought we might come across Cape Cod Bay into Hingham late at night.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To my dismay, the battery began to give out,
our speed dropping visibly until we made barely a knot.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>i got out the paddle, but resisted the idea
of switching to our other battery, which was under my bunk buried under a small
mountain of camping gear.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My gps route
wasn't entirely successful either, leading us aground once briefly, then taking
us among moored sailboats some distance from the channel, but between gps and
my floodlight, we found our way.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Finally, though, at 9:30 we touched the ramp, and the adventure was
over.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
Jeffrey Michals-Brownhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875231268940338643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454505000240746883.post-70097489720850913942012-06-30T17:19:00.000-04:002012-09-17T19:29:39.220-04:00Around Cape Cod: Day 5<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicrTn2E06zE8kAcaV4VCv4z1A7w7cpYzXrJBbPnhA7_cx5CkyR9jpbgVBccDFspMSQVIHLzeHRJsTqFTd3eNG5b280i9a6Qwc0Z_pf28KvljTEBz3TVl9Sl5MGRKT-S4WtjfgI_xF6LZ-t/s1600/day+5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicrTn2E06zE8kAcaV4VCv4z1A7w7cpYzXrJBbPnhA7_cx5CkyR9jpbgVBccDFspMSQVIHLzeHRJsTqFTd3eNG5b280i9a6Qwc0Z_pf28KvljTEBz3TVl9Sl5MGRKT-S4WtjfgI_xF6LZ-t/s640/day+5.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
Provincetown: the bar we grounded on is the light diagonal line extending from inside the middle of Long Point. The dike we walked runs from inside end of Long Point to the edge of downtown.<br />
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<span style="font-family: Corbel; font-size: medium;">I slept a little late, convinced we would be staying in
Provincetown this day, come what may.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
climbed out, refreshed, at about seven to find we were aground on a bar a
little distance from the beach.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Leaving Trevor
sleeping, I took a walk barefoot on the bar, admiring shells and rocks, waded
the tidal creeks, and returned about an hour later.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Rain sent me into the cabin Trevor had
buttoned-up the cabin in my absence.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We
ate breakfast and read while the rain pattered occasionally.</span></div>
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Grounded on a bar, <em>Beatrice Ann</em> is little the worse for wear after her adventure. Even my splinted sprit was okay.</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: Corbel;">Late in the morning I called Bea for a weather update. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After hearing it, I needed no convincing that
I should not risk crossing Cape Cod Bay for the next two or three days.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I wondered aloud whether Bea could come and
get us?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She could.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We floated about noon, sailed over to town to
scope out the ramp we'd seen while on foot the day before, toured the shoreline
a bit, then sailed up to the beach to await her arrival.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wWqHjPsW7TI/T-jA-2U3lII/AAAAAAAAC5A/WpscIXnowAg/s1600/P6230128.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wWqHjPsW7TI/T-jA-2U3lII/AAAAAAAAC5A/WpscIXnowAg/s400/P6230128.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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An amazing "houseboat" in Provincetown Harbor features Frank Lloyd Wright styling, good ventilation, solar panels and a shaded wrap-around porch. Hanging plant on the right hand end for that homey feel.</div>
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<span style="font-family: Corbel; font-size: medium;">It was a nice ramp, and not crowded.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Beatrice Ann took up a lot of real estate
on the small beach without appearing to be in anyone's way.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>People swam, frolicked with their dogs, took
out kayaks and a Sunfish.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I sat on the
prow reading Outermost House, stopping now and then to resettle the bow on the
beach as the tide rose and fell.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Trevor
read in the cabin.</span></div>
<o:p><span style="font-family: Corbel; font-size: medium;"> </span></o:p><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Qit2BdbRuWo/T-jBAzKdj0I/AAAAAAAAC5I/bqRpImqlVUI/s1600/P6230129.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Qit2BdbRuWo/T-jBAzKdj0I/AAAAAAAAC5I/bqRpImqlVUI/s400/P6230129.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Bea and I once stayed at the Land's End B&B visible rising in ornate glory on the hilltop</div>
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<span style="font-family: Corbel; font-size: medium;">We were all in the car headed out of Provincetown by 4pm,
stopping at Moby Dick's in Wellfleet for a welcome dinner.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At home, I "saw to the horses
first" by unloading the boat and beginning the cleaning process before
going into the house to get clean myself.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>As I worked, I left the vhf radio on, since it had up and decided to
work again.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It suddenly erupted into warnings
of severe weather--bands of thunderstorms, winds gusting to 38, hail, and so
on--picked up on doppler radar all over the coastal waters, at a time we would
have far out had we sailed that day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Before this, such a warning would have been purely intellectual--now a
little experience invests it with a visceral punch.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Never again will I take such a forecast
lightly. </span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YIAro7MuCwY/T-jBDcnE5II/AAAAAAAAC5Q/kEWWJcKXwNA/s1600/P6230130.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YIAro7MuCwY/T-jBDcnE5II/AAAAAAAAC5Q/kEWWJcKXwNA/s320/P6230130.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Beatrice and Stephen got us, then treated us to fish & chips, shrimp and fried clams at Moby Dick's. A Fudgy Wudgy, cheesecake, and two Freezese capped it off.</div>
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Jeffrey Michals-Brownhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875231268940338643noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-454505000240746883.post-84752730547613045242012-06-29T14:02:00.002-04:002012-09-17T19:24:45.454-04:00Around Cape Cod: Day 4<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmSdDu3LSQoHoujUV8XdyUddAVT4bSCxKRasvYnBHX5JGMzMK6J1RxxEL7uo4x7Pr2cJPOLKSV27Qt5xvXPaBkVEHil6OOVaF4VRjuUjbdswXnOfWhyWEq-YTI3ewsxWu2fbmh6b9rZu5b/s1600/day+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmSdDu3LSQoHoujUV8XdyUddAVT4bSCxKRasvYnBHX5JGMzMK6J1RxxEL7uo4x7Pr2cJPOLKSV27Qt5xvXPaBkVEHil6OOVaF4VRjuUjbdswXnOfWhyWEq-YTI3ewsxWu2fbmh6b9rZu5b/s640/day+4.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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the red line shows a distanc of 5 nautical miles, so our rough position.</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: Corbel;">We woke about 10am, having dropped anchor behind Long Point
only six hours earlier.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Thinking it was
already rather late to be starting across Cape Cod Bay to Plymouth, we might as
well go into town.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The shore was about
100 feet to leeward, so I let out all the scope we had, added a second length
of rode, and then brought the transom within reach of the beach with a
paddle.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(On reflection, the whole affair
took longer than it would have to simply inflate the kayak and paddle ashore.)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Leaving a second anchor from the stern to
ensure a wind shift didn't carry the boat out of reach, we walked the quarter
mile of beach and the mile of picturesque stone dike into Provincetown.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was about two hours before high tide.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Our plan was the same as in Chatham: scope
things out with an eye to finding something to eat and drinks in cool AC
comfort.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We settled on a pizza place
that also advertised ice cream.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fqa3r4zPBd0/T-jAtY-iRTI/AAAAAAAAC3w/K6JNxzlKWwo/s1600/P6220115.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fqa3r4zPBd0/T-jAtY-iRTI/AAAAAAAAC3w/K6JNxzlKWwo/s400/P6220115.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The dike is about a mile long, and a pretty walk into Provincetown.</div>
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The salt marsh and pond maintained by the dike.</div>
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These great fat ducks--common eiders, I think--seem to prefer swimming to flying.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0QKmaWb_K30/T-jA4MWIpyI/AAAAAAAAC4Q/WiS32UEUjKA/s1600/P6220119.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0QKmaWb_K30/T-jA4MWIpyI/AAAAAAAAC4Q/WiS32UEUjKA/s400/P6220119.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<em>Beatrice Ann</em> anchored off Long Point.</div>
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<span style="font-family: Corbel; font-size: medium;">We were back aboard about 3pm, half a large cheese pizza
inside us and the rest in hand.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The ebb
had begun.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I phoned Beatrice to get the
latest NOAA weather forecast.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Winds
southwest at 5 to 10 going west about 6pm, and possible thunderstorms from a
coming cold front late at night.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Not
great--but the frontal weather was to be with us right through the
weekend.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I decided we would go for
it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It would mean doing most of the
crossing after dark, but I was used to this, and had long-since laid in the gps
coordinates that would see us safely into either Plymouth or the more northerly
Hingham, near Boston.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(On an earlier
crossing years before, we had started even later than this.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was my first long night-crossing, and I
still remember that night on Cape Cod Bay as a magical.)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Although I should have been tired, I felt
pretty good.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Beatrice didn't exactly object,
but I could hear worry in her voice. </span></div>
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Returning to the boat, tide falling but a bit higher than we left. The Mayflower Memorial tower is visible at left in Provincetown.</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: Corbel;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We got things
ship-shape with all speed and got the anchor up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I told Trevor that, to make so long a trip
after so short a night, he would have to do a good deal of the sailing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In his confidence he was ready to do all of
it; we compromised: he could sail until full dark, then we would see.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He had rather enjoyed a little night sailing under
a fingernail moon the night before.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
settled into my bunk and pretended to nap.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>In reality, I was evaluating Trevor's sail trim, his course-keeping, and
his reactions to events.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He did pretty
well, even after a wind shift headed us, so he was no longer able to stay on
the gps line.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I relaxed and daydreamed.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Corbel; font-size: medium;">Five or six nautical miles off shore, I noticed that Trevor
was luffing pretty continuously: I went into the cockpit to find him spilling
wind to keep her on her feet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He was
ready to hand over the tiller.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On that
day a new idiom entered Trevor's vocabulary: "out of my league."<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>While I explained that we could balance the
boat better with both of us on the windward side (my bunk was on the leeward),
and reef if we needed to, it quickly became apparent that a reef was an urgent
priority.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The sky ahead was dark,
lightning flashed in the distance.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Events were getting way ahead of me: I initially planned to reef the
main alone, since the boat can't ride hove-to while reefing the mizzen, but by
the time we were hove-to and I was on the foredeck, I couldn't even do that.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This was out of my league, as well.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Corbel; font-size: medium;">My sails are sleeved and furl around the mast.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Furling or reefing the main in any kind of
wind requires rotating the mast--usually not difficult. But the increasing wind
put so much strain via the flogging sail that I couldn't budge the mast, no
matter how I positioned myself on the tiny bit of deck.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Added to that was a new worry: the mizzen was
unable to hold the boat head-to-wind since it was drifting backward so quickly
that the rudder would steer it on the wind, then the boat would heel perilously
on mizzen only, round up with agonizing slowness, repeating this at seemingly
random intervals.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Wind and waves still
building, my mind rapidly shifted gears, from "we need to reef"
through "we need a way to ride this out," and "we need to turn
back," to "I don't want to die."</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Corbel; font-size: medium;">Fearing a capsize, and unable to come up with a plan that couldn't
make things worse, I told Trevor to leave the tiller alone and hang on
tight.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Since I couldn't deal with the
violently flogging mainsail, I reached into the forepeak and got out the drift
sock.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had long ago thought that this cheap
fisherman's drift anchor might help with reefing under way, but my few
experiments had been disappointing, and the sock was stuffed in among the
anchors "just in case."<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With
no spare rode in easy reach, I tied it to the other end of the main rode and
lowered it carefully over the bow.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In
moments the strain on the rode was too great for a hand alone, and I cleated it
off perhaps fifty feet off the bow.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Instantly the bow came obediently into the wind and the boat began
riding properly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Enormous relief!</span></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Corbel; font-size: medium;"> </span></o:p><span style="font-family: Corbel; font-size: medium;">Now my undivided attention returned to the main just as
Trevor cried out and pointed: the cheap aluminum carabiner (really a key ring)
that I used to fix the sheet to the clew had carried away, and the main swung
free of any impediment.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I shouted to Trevor
that that was good news: had the sheet caught on anything for even a moment, we
would have been swimming.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I knelt on the
deck on the lee side of the mast and pushed with all my might to counter the
pressure of the wind, and was able to rotate it a quarter-turn.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Once it had made a few rotations, the
shrinking sail area began to make the job much easier.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>By the time I had secured the sail, a plan
had formed in my mind.</span></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Corbel; font-size: medium;"> </span></o:p><span style="font-family: Corbel; font-size: medium;">The mizzen furled more easily, since I could stand and lean
against the mast and its area was smaller to begin with.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Without the mizzen, the sock alone held the
bow about forty-five degrees off the wind.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I explained to Trevor that we would sail back to Provincetown using just
the wind on masts and hull as power--fortunately P-town was now almost directly
downwind.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The bit I wasn't sure about
was how we would come around, and what would happen when we were in broach
position, with the increasing waves rolling us sideways.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Plan A was for Trevor to steer us around
backwards as soon as the sock was aboard, and plan B was to release the
centerboard if that prevented us from turning downwind.</span></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Corbel; font-size: medium;"> </span></o:p><span style="font-family: Corbel; font-size: medium;">Plan B it was, no harm came of the moment we spent turning, and
in a few minutes we were running before the wind and surfing four foot waves at
a steady four knots plus under bare poles with centerboard up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I called Beatrice to tell her the situation,
and told her to expect another call when we were in shelter.</span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ijaoyEn9AFY/T-jA5mCJCYI/AAAAAAAAC4c/Huu7UHW3Q04/s1600/P6220124.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ijaoyEn9AFY/T-jA5mCJCYI/AAAAAAAAC4c/Huu7UHW3Q04/s400/P6220124.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Waves breaking to port. At that distance, not a worry.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--Moef2G78yo/T-jA6-dybrI/AAAAAAAAC4k/5s9YPcPDyJw/s1600/P6220125.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--Moef2G78yo/T-jA6-dybrI/AAAAAAAAC4k/5s9YPcPDyJw/s400/P6220125.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Doesn't look like much, but we're doing a little modest surfing.</div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: Corbel;">I was now pretty sure we weren't going to die today, but
there were still some worries: the lightning had us as far from masts as
possible--but on a twenty-foot cat ketch that's not very far.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We lightly discussed possible outcomes of a
strike.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My happiest scenerio involved
large holes burned through the hull at either or both mast steps, cabin and
cockpit flooded, but the boat still afloat and reasonably stable due to the
buoyancy of her storage compartments.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
sat in the back of the cockpit, four feet from the mizzenmast, while Trevor
stuffed himself and a book at the forward end of the cabin, about four or five
feet from either mast.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The lightning
flashed behind and before, but never came within earshot.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Corbel; font-size: medium;">Increasing wave height worried me as well; I learned not to
fear the waves I heard breaking well behind us, but concentrate on those that threatened
to break right on the transom and poop us.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The cabin I had added to this open-cockpit design has only the merest
division between outside and in: a six-inch high bulkhead beneath the
thwart/mizzenmast partner was meant only to keep rainfall and spray in its
proper place, outside the cabin.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
cockpit floor is below the waterline, so hasn't any scuppers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Three feet of aft deck between transom and
cockpit is the only thing between a breaking wave and a flooded boat.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The good news is that the boat is virtually
unsinkable in the short term, having eight separate compartments totaling over
twenty-four cubic feet in volume. Hatches to the largest compartments in bow
and stern were on centerline, and would not go underwater unless the boat
turtled.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Corbel; font-size: medium;">A final worry grew on me as we approached the Wood End light
that marked the beginning of shelter: These waves might increase further in
height and begin to break as they approached the shallows near the point.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I began to bear away a little, adding some
centerboard to better control my direction, as I sought to balance my fear of
breaking waves against the possibility that we'd be unable to get into the lee
of any land for shelter.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Corbel; font-size: medium;">As Wood End light turned from a flashing abstraction into a
solid white tower, and darkness fell, the wind and waves fell with them, and my
fear followed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>What had happened to the
violent wind and seas that had ended our passage?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It now seemed a thing half-imagined, blown
out of proportion by my own inadequacy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Rain came and went, but never amounted to anything.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Corbel; font-size: medium;">In trying to turn up the coast, I discovered that, even with
the full centerboard down, we could not sail under bare poles more than about
twenty degrees off dead downwind.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We
managed to get the trolling motor working, and slipped quietly up and back
behind Long Point against a fading wind.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The big but untrustworthy old battery I had brought along as backup surprised
me: it drove our half-ton on at a steady two knots for about an hour with no
sign of exhaustion.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A call to Bea
assured her we were well into shelter.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Battery
still going strong, I decided to make for the corner close beside the dike so
we would have easy access to town.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In
the darkness I had to do this by judging the relative distance to Wood End and
Long Point lights.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When I judged we were
close, I headed shoreward until the centerboard touched, figuring we would have
no problems being grounded so near low tide.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>By ten o'clock we were celebrating being alive with left-over pizza and
warm lemonade.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We slept well.</span></div>
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Jeffrey Michals-Brownhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11875231268940338643noreply@blogger.com0